Carb Conversion "Kits" ETA March-April 2016

[dmruschell]

Took a look at a 2300 throttle shaft. It has very large holes where Motorcraft throttle balls would be, most likely 1/4":

Attachment 40125

1/4" holes may be a Holley thing. My school bus originally had a Holley carb that used a 1/4" clevis pin to attach its carb -- I had to drill out the throttle mechanism and use a 1/4" bolt when converting it to an Autolite:

Attachment 40126

If you are going to use a Holley carb, it might be best just to buy a manifold and adapter plate. Everything I have is set up for throttle balls (or #10 clevis pins). Sounds like you would be able to fabricate your own throttle attachment. Don't forget that on Ellon's car you would also need to fabricate a bracket to hold the full throttle kickdown microswitch:

Attachment 40127 Attachment 40128

What would be great is if you sourced your own manifold, then I could simply make an adapter plate. I did that for Del Silveira and John Dore (they also got carbs from me). Del's was a fun one because his manifold had already been routed out and a Weber adapter plate welded on -- I made his adapter from a pencil rubbing alone (Del lived in British Columbia). At least for John's I had an unadulterated Peugeot manifold to work with. If you provided your own manifold then I could preserve my inventory for complete conversions. There are a couple of owners on this forum who have spare Peugeot manifolds and might be willing to sell them (Chad Krause on Today also has one). Andrew in Michigan has located several Peugeot 604's using online junkyard searches.

Bill Robertson
#5939

I've never had any trouble swapping over to a Holley carb.

So, what you're telling me is that because I showed interest in using a different carburetor, that you'd rather not sell to me? Saying that the sky is the limit for carburetors and telling people to learn about the carburetor they're putting on and then not wanting to sell them a kit because they want to use a carburetor that they're more familiar with is a bit contradictory.

I haven't been able to find a manifold on my own, which is why I've talked to you in the past and have waited for you to get pricing set on your Pugeot manifolds.

[dmruschell]

Bill, I'm not asking for any special treatment or a special package with a different carburetor or anything like that. However you offer the "conversion package" is how I'll buy it whenever they're offered.

[content22207_2]

So, what you're telling me is that because I showed interest in using a different carburetor, that you'd rather not sell to me?

No, what I'm saying is I'd rather sell you only the parts you will use. Doesn't make any sense for me to rebuild a carburetor that isn't going to get used (or for you to buy it).

Most people I've helped don't want to do any fabrication or source any parts on their own -- they're looking for something they can simply bolt up and start driving. Since you've already adapted Holley carbs onto your other automobiles you fall into a different category.

See if you can find a Peugeot manifold. If you can, I will gladly make a 2100/2300 footprint adapter plate for it. If you can't find a manifold we'll go with one of mine.

I've only got 5 Peugeot manifolds so of course I'd rather save mine for people looking for top to bottom conversions. At least post some messages to see what else is out there. I can make an adapter plate to fit anything you find. As stated, Del Silveira found a manifold that had already been modified, and we made an adapter plate for it no problem (he made a pencil rubbing, like a tombstone rubbing, which allowed me to match his new bolt holes). If your search comes up empty I'll sell you one of my manifolds.

Also let me know if you want other parts such as a fuel pump/carrier, fuel filter bracket, etc.

And see if you can find out what size air filter neck 2300's have. 2100's have 5 1/8" (same as standardized 4 barrel). I use Edelbrock 10" housings with a plastic lid and airbox labels.

I've got a very limited supply of plastic throttle ball ends -- definitely don't want to send you one of those if you're going to be using a clevis pin instead.

Nobody's being mean to Darren -- just don't want to rebuild or fabricate parts that aren't going to get used. Figure out what you need from me versus parts you will supply from your end. I've been down this path before: Jeff Dickey wanted a manifold only (he supplied his own carb), already had a low pressure fuel pump, etc.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207_2]

A goodly portion of my "kits" come from Advance and Autozone: carb baseplate gasket, PCV valve, hoses, fuel injection hose clamps, etc. Even the air filter housings come from Autozone (I make a custom lid). I am more than happy to buy things like that on your behalf, or I can give you a list of part numbers and let you buy them up there. As stated, most owners are looking for everything in one box, not a list of part numbers. I'll work with you either way.

Things that are custom from my end:
- Intake manifold or adapter plate
- Throttle cable bracket
- Fuel pump carrier (has a 1/8" male barb at the bottom. I use Airtex E8012S fuel pumps, but any pump that fits inside the carrier with 1/8" threads will work, or you can put a hose barb in it and mount a pump elsewhere)
- Fuel filter bracket (accepts any 1/4" fuel filter, or you can swap the bracket's barbs for 5/16" or 3/8")
- Air filter lid (black nylon disc with OEM airbox stickers)
- Charcoal canister blockoff plate
- Fuel injector plugs (smooth shanks of stainless 3/8" bolts with the threads cut off)
- Tuna fish baffle

And of course rebuilt carburetors for owners who want them.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[dmruschell]

No, what I'm saying is I'd rather sell you only the parts you will use. Doesn't make any sense for me to rebuild a carburetor that isn't going to get used (or for you to buy it).

Most people I've helped don't want to do any fabrication or source any parts on their own -- they're looking for something they can simply bolt up and start driving. Since you've already adapted Holley carbs onto your other automobiles you fall into a different category.

See if you can find a Peugeot manifold. If you can, I will gladly make a 2100/2300 footprint adapter plate for it. If you can't find a manifold we'll go with one of mine.

I've only got 5 Peugeot manifolds so of course I'd rather save mine for people looking for top to bottom conversions. At least post some messages to see what else is out there. I can make an adapter plate to fit anything you find. As stated, Del Silveira found a manifold that had already been modified, and we made an adapter plate for it no problem (he made a pencil rubbing, like a tombstone rubbing, which allowed me to match his new bolt holes). If your search comes up empty I'll sell you one of my manifolds.

Also let me know if you want other parts such as a fuel pump/carrier, fuel filter bracket, etc.

And see if you can find out what size air filter neck 2300's have. 2100's have 5 1/8" (same as standardized 4 barrel). I use Edelbrock 10" housings with a plastic lid and airbox labels.

I've got a very limited supply of plastic throttle ball ends -- definitely don't want to send you one of those if you're going to be using a clevis pin instead.

Nobody's being mean to Darren -- just don't want to rebuild or fabricate parts that aren't going to get used. Figure out what you need from me versus parts you will supply from your end. I've been down this path before: Jeff Dickey wanted a manifold only (he supplied his own carb), already had a low pressure fuel pump, etc.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Gotcha. Sorry I got defensive; I just misunderstood what you were saying. If me just purchasing what I need works for you, then it works for me, too It saves you the fabrication, and saves me from reselling it.

Since I eventually plan on converting the cars to use an integrated pump and sender, I'll probably get a pressure regulator to lower the fuel pressure to the carb (they're used in the muscle car community quite often, so they're readily available). So, I probably won't need a pump or anything in the fuel tank.

There are several ways to attach a throttle linkage to a Holley (and Edelbrock and Quadrajet, etc.... they all seem to have the same options for interchangeability), so if you have a limited supply of plastic balls, I'll figure something else out.

So, other than the carb itself and the fuel pump, I should need everything else in the kit. Fabrication is a bit beyond me at the moment, though I have been able to modify parts that /almost/ work to get them to work right. I'm a big fan of bolt-on and go, especially if someone else has already done the hard part. The whole point of having the kit is to keep the cars on the road!

The carb I'm looking at appears to have the standard air cleaner footprint, and the internet seems to agree that it has the 5 1/4 inch opening.

Thanks again for the help, and sorry for the misunderstanding.

[content22207_2]

Rebuilding these carbs really is a major undertaking. I tear them down completely, soak the aluminum castings in a variety of baths (carb solution, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits) scrubbing nooks & crannies with hand cleaner and a toothbrush between soakings, strip the steel bits with low grade acid and paint them with appliance epoxy, pull out unused vacuum barbs and fill their passages with JB Weld, *THEN* put in a kit with fresh rubber. I also use all new hardware during reassembly.

Definitely don't want to go to all that trouble for a carburetor that's just going to sit on a shelf.

Painting the steel bits:

CarbSteelBits.jpg

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207_2]

Since I eventually plan on converting the cars to use an integrated pump and sender, I'll probably get a pressure regulator to lower the fuel pressure to the carb (they're used in the muscle car community quite often, so they're readily available). So, I probably won't need a pump or anything in the fuel tank.

I've been running a mechanical fuel pump for a year now:

ModifiedMechanicalPump.jpg MechanicalPump.jpg

Got mine from Autozone. About $40. They're made for Peugeot dual carb setups so there's an extra outlet that needs to be plugged. I also wasn't too keen on the barbs that came with it (smooth with no beads on the end) so I replaced them with standard barbed fittings.

I repurposed the K-Jet return line as an outbound fuel line. Old accumulator tee is capped off.

The electric low pressure pump is still in the tank as the tank interface. It's keyed to a toggle switch under my kneepad. In theory if the diaphragm in the mechanical pump ever splits I can turn the electric pump on and continue driving without ever stopping. I do use the electric pump to refill the carb if the car has been sitting for a while (rather than cranking and cranking until the mechanical pump fills the bowl back up).

One nice thing about mechanical fuel pumps: absolutely no need for safety devices such as RPM relays or inertia switches.

And of course no electrical load whatsoever (low pressure electric pumps only draw about 1.5 amps anyway).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Rebuilding these carbs really is a major undertaking. I tear them down completely, soak the aluminum castings in a variety of baths (carb solution, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits) scrubbing nooks & crannies with hand cleaner and a toothbrush between soakings, strip the steel bits with low grade acid and paint them with appliance epoxy, pull out unused vacuum barbs and fill their passages with JB Weld, *THEN* put in a kit with fresh rubber. I also use all new hardware during reassembly.

It's worth it, though. My "rebuilt by Holley" Motorcraft 2150 started acquiring rust within three months of moving to southeast Louisiana. And that was with regular use. Whatever they used to strip the gunk off of the carburetor also stripped every molecule of zinc from the steel components.

[content22207_2]

All of the steel bits are made of low carbon steel. Doesn't take much for them to rust.

The appliance epoxy I use is a quite durable barrier, and it's 2.5% aluminum powder (that's what makes it sparkle) which acts as a sacrificial anode.

I've found that cold galvanizing enamel isn't as durable as appliance epoxy.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

I've found that cold galvanizing enamel isn't as durable as appliance epoxy.

Noted for when I strip and paint #2613's frame. </joke>