Location: Northern Virginia, near Washington DC.
Posts: 214
My VIN: 5470
That's a crazy set up. I've never seen triple 2BBLs in any configuration other than in a line, Pontiac style (with a little tip o' the hat to Johnny ZOriginally Posted by Birchy
) It looks like it's set up so that one venturi feeds each cyl? Must be a nightmare to keep in sync.
The only other triple carb I'd seen before was this one. Looks like it might be running a bit rich....
Location: England
Posts: 3
My VIN: 2456
Thanks for welcome, I am actually collecting the car in a few days, probably going to be a few months before I can make a start on any work.
Yes I agree with last post I am guessing this lot would be a challenge to make and keep running smoothly. Especially with an auto box car, as mine is. That is why I am seeking a simpler setup to install when I get to it. Then sell this setup once it's running. I have experience with twin dellortos on alfa gtvs I've owned and currently have a Lotus Eclat with them fitted, and they are bad enough to live With!
I have read a lot about someone called bill robertson, he seems to be doing a conversion kit, can anyone put me in touch via an email address.
I could then make direct contact and discuss a possibility of using one of his.
Location: Northern Virginia, near Washington DC.
Posts: 214
My VIN: 5470
Yep, that's the Bill I was referring to. I am relatively new here, so I'm only going off some posts I've read, but there seems to have been some strong opinions here on various topics, and now Bill posts more on the DMCtoday.com forums. I think you could have an easy time reaching him there. I think I've even seen his number or email posted as well.
-Rick
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 148
My VIN: 4675, 4190, 3114 and others
Club(s): (DMA) (DMWC) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Bill,
Glad to see that you are back making these kits again.
Bob
Posts: 990
Who are you talking to?
Location: Rowlett, TX
Posts: 1,533
My VIN: 5482
Anyone got a spare kit they're looking to sell?
Jeff
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Do you have Bill's e-mail address?
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Rowlett, TX
Posts: 1,533
My VIN: 5482
Yes. Already emailed him. Waiting on follow-up reply. He doesn't have any 100% ready at the moment but sounds like he might be pretty close.
Jeff
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 3
My VIN: 01223
Hello, I'm new to the forum, but not new to Deloreans.
I've owned #01223 going on 13 years now. Long story short, the car was stored for eight years (correctly) and after putting in new fluids, battery, and I opted to replace the fuel pump with DMCH's computerized pump/sender the K-Jet system actually fired right up with little to no choking. I still have a WUR issue since I can't put any throttle on it until I've let it idle for a good five minutes or so and once it's warm I can smell it running rich, but it idles right at 1000 RPM pretty smoothly (car's an automatic).
It's up on jack stands at the moment. I'm compiling my list of upgrades and fixes ranging from "safety and mechanically critical" to "purely cosmetic". One of those is the fact that although my K-Jet system is running now, it is still running the the original fuel lines, and I either need to rebuild or replace the WUR. New stainless lines are roughly $300 bucks, a new WUR is another $300 bucks. Should my cold start injector go that's $200, and the list of critical K-Jet components goes on.
The second thing I run into is the number of jobs that stack into each other or fall into the category of since you're already doing this then this part is now accessible so you can replace or upgrade this now, too. Namely, I'm going to replace all of the old rubber coolant lines that have been sitting dry for so long with silicone tubes. This includes the heater core lines running out of the hard line under the intake in the VOD. I've already replaced my water pump and main pipes under the intake with silicone hose 10 years ago, but I didn't do the heater lines.
Here are my carb questions:
1. If I'm going to go through the effort of having to remove the intake and K-Jet top end components anyway to properly replace my old crusty heater hoses for a complete overhaul of the coolant piping network, would it be a good time to do this switch since everything on top will be removed anyway?
2. Is using the mechanical fuel pump necessary or can the conversion be done while still utilizing the electric pump in the tank with the tank return line hooked up to the carburetor? Does the electric pump produce too much fuel pressure?
Should I convert, even though it is reversible, I have no intention of returning to the K-Jet system and since I know that the majority of the components are in good running order I can sell them as cores for rebuild to recoup some of the cost. I've been considering doing an EFI conversion, but overall the amount of custom fabrication work and new wiring with a new computer puts that conversion into the same price point of a complete K-Jet overhaul if not more so.
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 2,405
My VIN: 01049
You can use an electric pump. The pump you have in there now produces WAY too much pressure for a carb, something like 15 times too much.
You have two choices:
1. Get a low pressure fuel pump to replace the existing high pressure pump
2. Get a fuel pressure regulator (you'll need one that can go to the low pressures carbs use) and plumb that
I'm in the beginning stages of doing an engine swap (LS motor), for which I will use a carb. I'll be going with option 1 in my scenario.
-Mike
My engine twists my frame.
1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
2005 Elise, stock
2016 Chevy Cruze
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