Engine Squealing Before Starting

[Mattglas]

Tried to start up my Delorean today after some engine work and this happened. In the video, the RPM relay is jumped and the key is in the second position.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2N...ew?usp=sharing

Obviously, something isn't right. I think its fuel related because when I took the key out and just jumped the RPM relay the same noise happened. All vacuum lines were checked and secure.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Tried to start up my Delorean today after some engine work and this happened. In the video, the RPM relay is jumped and the key is in the second position.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2N...ew?usp=sharing

Obviously, something isn't right. I think its fuel related because when I took the key out and just jumped the RPM relay the same noise happened. All vacuum lines were checked and secure.

Sounds like your fuel plunger is stuck (Frozen fuel distributor piston) which will load your cylinders up with fuel. If this is the case you will foul your spark plugs quickly. If by chance it starts you will fry your catalytic converter quickly as well. This is something you should check before trying to start it. How old is the fuel in the tank?
Rob

BTW the noise is the sound of your squealing injectors dumping raw fuel into your cylinders at a "full throttle" clip....not good for your engine to say the least. When you fix it you will need to change the oil and filter as well.

[Mattglas]

I just tested the injectors and you're right they are just dumping fuel into the engine. Are there any instructions for unsticking the plunger? Also, the fuel is brand new and the old fuel was cleaned out of the tank when I replaced the pump.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I just tested the injectors and you're right they are just dumping fuel into the engine. Are there any instructions for unsticking the plunger? Also, the fuel is brand new and the old fuel was cleaned out of the tank when I replaced the pump.

The plunger is stuck from the previous old fuel. They don't generally free up easily. You need to remove the fuel distributor and flip it upside down and try to pull the plunger out with a thin jawed pair of pliers. If that doesn't work you can pour a little acetone into the well around the plunger "nose" and let it soak in a while to see if that helps.
I would not suggest disassembling the distributor as they usually leak afterwards and could cause a fire if not professionally rebuilt. At that point I'd suggest exchanging it with a rebuilt unit from a vendor...hopefully us!
Rob

[Mattglas]

I took your advice and removed the distributor from the mixture unit and found that the plunger was indeed stuck. After a few hours and a bit of acetone, I managed to get it out and working correctly. This fixed my injector problem but there is still a spraying noise that can be heard from around the engine.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2N...ew?usp=sharing
I know its a fuel related problem because it sounds when I jump the rpm relay and only power the pump.
Any Ideas?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I took your advice and removed the distributor from the mixture unit and found that the plunger was indeed stuck. After a few hours and a bit of acetone, I managed to get it out and working correctly. This fixed my injector problem but there is still a spraying noise that can be heard from around the engine.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2N...ew?usp=sharing
I know its a fuel related problem because it sounds when I jump the rpm relay and only power the pump.
Any Ideas?

That sounds like the normal buss of the idle air regulator. It's bolted to the driver side corner of the intake manifold with the rubber hoses on the bottom. So does the engine run OK now? Did you clean the plugs and change the oil yet? BTW your new fuel hoses should be routed more like this:

[Mattglas]

I changed the oil and it was filled with a lot of gas, so good thing it's out of the engine. The spark plugs are actually my main concern right now, visually they are blackened a bit but look fine, functionally they are not so fine. They wouldn't ignite the fuel so I got an inline spark plug tester and that proved that they were not sparking. I checked all the fuses, relays, and circuit breakers and they were seemingly ok. So I started to follow the Tech Bulletin on ignition diagnostics and it said to put one multimeter probe on a coil terminal and the other on a ground. Using the ground under the bulkheads I got 11 volts on each terminal, which according to the bulletin is not normal. So I swapped the coil to see if that would help but still got the same result. What's strange is that the ignition was working perfectly before I fixed the fuel issue. By the way thanks for the tip with the fuel lines, it's really just a temporary setup now because I know I'll have to take them off again soon.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I changed the oil and it was filled with a lot of gas, so good thing it's out of the engine. The spark plugs are actually my main concern right now, visually they are blackened a bit but look fine, functionally they are not so fine. They wouldn't ignite the fuel so I got an inline spark plug tester and that proved that they were not sparking. I checked all the fuses, relays, and circuit breakers and they were seemingly ok. So I started to follow the Tech Bulletin on ignition diagnostics and it said to put one multimeter probe on a coil terminal and the other on a ground. Using the ground under the bulkheads I got 11 volts on each terminal, which according to the bulletin is not normal. So I swapped the coil to see if that would help but still got the same result. What's strange is that the ignition was working perfectly before I fixed the fuel issue. By the way thanks for the tip with the fuel lines, it's really just a temporary setup now because I know I'll have to take them off again soon.

With the key to on and the engine not running, I think you should see about 6 volts on one coil terminal and about 1 volt on the other. If your seeing 11 volts on both, your ignition ECU is not connected or burned out.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I changed the oil and it was filled with a lot of gas, so good thing it's out of the engine. The spark plugs are actually my main concern right now, visually they are blackened a bit but look fine, functionally they are not so fine. They wouldn't ignite the fuel so I got an inline spark plug tester and that proved that they were not sparking. I checked all the fuses, relays, and circuit breakers and they were seemingly ok. So I started to follow the Tech Bulletin on ignition diagnostics and it said to put one multimeter probe on a coil terminal and the other on a ground. Using the ground under the bulkheads I got 11 volts on each terminal, which according to the bulletin is not normal. So I swapped the coil to see if that would help but still got the same result. What's strange is that the ignition was working perfectly before I fixed the fuel issue. By the way thanks for the tip with the fuel lines, it's really just a temporary setup now because I know I'll have to take them off again soon.

My advice is to change the spark plugs and all the copper seals when you reroute the fuel lines. It just may be your whole problem. Keep it simple!
Rob