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Thread: The TesLorean

  1. #71
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by DCUK Martin View Post
    CV joints should always have at least 2 degrees of angle in order for the grease to circulate. Running a joint perfectly straight is a surefire way to have it fail very early
    You are correct, it should never be perfectly straight but it never will be. As you drive and the wheels go up and down that should be enough so the joint moves and the grease circulates and the bearings move. As important as the angle is, the length is also very important as a previous poster mentioned. Too short or too long and you will put a lot of stress on the joints and the suspension and eventually something is going to give. At ride height the joint should be "neutral" and at the ends of travel it should be about equal as to length and angle. This is just one of the things anyone doing a swap must consider and work out. Mess up and parts fail prematurely.
    David Teitelbaum

  2. #72
    Tweedledumber DCUK Martin's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  DeLorean Cars, UK

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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    You are correct, it should never be perfectly straight but it never will be.
    To not account for periods when it *might be* would be lazy engineering. This is why driveshafts are always offset either fore or aft.
    Martin Gutkowski

    DeLorean Cars (UK)
    www.delorean.co.uk
    Twitter: @deloreancars

  3. #73
    Senior Member DrJeff's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2012

    Location:  Houston TX

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    More investigative work on the Brake Lines today. Prepared some sample brake line flares using the Eastwood Brake Line Flaring Tool.

    Bubble 45 - Male.jpgBubble DIN - Male.jpgDbl Inv 45 - Female.jpgDbl Inv DIN - Female.jpg

    So Male fittings are bubble. From the pictures it looks like the DIN setting (for the flares inner edge) is the best fit. Female fittings are Double Inverted (a bubble with the 'bubble' folded back into the line). From the female fitting pictures it looks like the 45 setting (for the flare inner edge) is the correct fit.

    Only reservation I have is that the flares I'm comparing to have been cinched down inside a fitting (for 35 years) and may have changed shape slightly.

    Jeff

    --------------------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by DrJeff View Post
    Found this old thread with brake fittings information from TommyRich in post #6. Excellent table of data included. Thanks to TommyRich for posting.

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12...nd-Thread-Size

    Here's the direct link to the table of data (as an image).
    http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1438968021
    Jeff
    #6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...

  4. #74
    Senior Member DrJeff's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2012

    Location:  Houston TX

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    My VIN:    6313

    Update on Tesla Motor Placement

    Now that I have a design for the battery pack location in the DeLorean, I was able to find the final position for the motor. Previously the motor sat further forward (in the space once occupied by the transmission) and tipped nose down about 40 degrees. Now the motor will sit over the engine cradle with the transmission tipped nose down about 25 degrees. This lessens the angle on the half-shafts.

    Tesla Motor Position TopDown.jpg Motor Below the Frame Top.jpg Motor from Rear.jpg Rear Motor Mount Positions.jpg

    The motor mount at the side of the Tesla motor was removed and put aside to avoid obstruction. It will still be used, but a bracket will attached to the side of the motor to allow the rubber mount to move to a less awkward position.

    The half shafts are 22in and 25in, so closer in length than previously, also removing the potential need for a lay shaft.

    This creates some space in front of the motor which could accommodate a pump or other non-high voltage units.

    The Chevy Spark EV battery pack will be split into 3 parts, front 2 modules, rear 2 modules, and controller neck. I'll be using the existing shell (carbon fiber) and metal supports, with modifications to maintain the waterproofing after splitting. The two front modules will sit behind the rear axle where belts, oil pan and exhaust used to be. The rear two modules will sit directly above the engine cradle and motor, in the location previously occupied by the intake manifold. The weight won't be quite as low or as central as I'd like, but it won't be all that far from the original DeLorean weight distribution.

    I'm putting misc electronics and high voltage (ac compressor, dcdc, heater, chiller, etc.) in the prior fuel tank area. The layout will be serviceable from below by removing the fuel tank covering plate. I'll be adding a splash cover for the fuel tank area to allow any water to drain away.
    Jeff
    #6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...

  5. #75
    Senior Member
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    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

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    Not gonna put batteries in where the fuel tank was? Might help weight distribution.
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

  6. #76
    Senior Member DrJeff's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2012

    Location:  Houston TX

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    My VIN:    6313

    Quote Originally Posted by Lwanmtr View Post
    Not gonna put batteries in where the fuel tank was? Might help weight distribution.
    They (battery modules from the Chevy Spark EV) simply don't fit. The fuel tank area isn't tall enough, long enough, or wide enough (for sufficient length). I've checked the dimensions of Tesla battery modules (same no fit story). About the only modules that did fit were from the Nissan Leaf and even then they are best built into blocks and the blocks are two large for the fuel tank area.

    I should have about 100 lbs of parts in the fuel tank area, which is pretty close to the weight of 15 gallons of gasoline (6.3 lbs/gallon).

    Jeff
    Jeff
    #6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...

  7. #77
    Senior Member
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    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

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    Thats too bad. I guess you could put 100lb sandbag up there to offset the weight...hehe
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

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