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Thread: The TesLorean

  1. #21
    Senior Member DrJeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ucfierocharger View Post
    ... I have decided to use the Leaf system because of this and the batteries. Obviously you're looking for a much higher output system on yours since it is the main drive. Have you seen what Jehu Garcia has done with his VW bus on youtube?
    Taking on the Leaf system takes some guts - from what I've read it is a highly integrated unit and difficult to hack. I have been watching the Electric Samba VW project. I haven't landed on a battery design yet, but I'm leaning away from anything too hacked-up, just not sure how to explain why the garage burned down to the wife

    I made some posts tonight on the "DIY Electric Car" forum about starting to reverse engineer the iBooster brake system from the Model S (with autopilot) and the Tesla 100% electric AC compressor. So far the AC compressor looks like it will be straightforward. The iBooster (a no vacuum, 100% hydraulic & electric) brake system is going to be much more involved to figure out.

    This weekend I'm just hoping to get the front suspension back in the car. If everything goes good I should have one of those 'suspension money shots' by Sunday. I won't have the calipers in yet as I'm still powder coating them (a slow process with a small volume oven).
    Jeff
    #6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...

  2. #22
    Formally hmm252000
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Why not just get a vacuum pump and reservoir? That way you can reuse the standard DeLorean brake booster/MC. My Tesla is the older version that uses a vacuum pump (pre-AP hardware change) and it works just fine. Also keeps you from having to convert the HVAC system as it uses vacuum too.

  3. #23
    Senior Member DrJeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris4099 View Post
    Why not just get a vacuum pump and reservoir? That way you can reuse the standard DeLorean brake booster/MC. My Tesla is the older version that uses a vacuum pump (pre-AP hardware change) and it works just fine. Also keeps you from having to convert the HVAC system as it uses vacuum too.
    I could very well end up using a vacuum pump and reservoir, but the iBooster is designed to increase the energy recovered from regenerative braking AND it is just cool to reverse engineer. The driver uses the accelerator and brake as normal, but if regenerative brake is available, the iBooster balances the use of the regenerative braking with the use of actual brakes. This gets away from the EV driver - lifting off the accelerator, which activates regenerative braking, and then pressing the brake only to finally bring the car to and hold the car at stop.

    There is also another benefit, active braking... the iBooster has sufficient braking power to activate the brakes on command without assistance. This could be integrated with collision avoidance. Obviously needs lots of testing and fail-safes, but interesting nonetheless.

    You also don't have the noise of the vacuum pump, or any limit to the amount of braking you can do (assuming you don't have a very large reservoir).

    RE: HVAC and vacuum control. I absolutely want to get away from using vacuum to activate HVAC doors.

    Also: If you've got braking, steering, acceleration on command...

    DrEmmett with Remote.jpg

    Jeff
    Jeff
    #6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...

  4. #24
    Formally hmm252000
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Hillsboro, OR

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    I get where you are coming from with the whole "cool" factor and reverse engineering. But if the vacuum pump is sized properly, it should be just fine. I've done long stretches of stop/go traffic on a downhill slope. I'll basically ride the brake pedal and vary the amount of pressure the whole time and never lose brake power. The pump runs a lot, but keeps up.

    As for regen control, trust me do what Tesla does and keep it on the accelerator. This makes for more single pedal driving (less moving the foot back and forth between pedals). Only touch the brake pedal when you need the actual hard braking or complete stop. Simple to setup and better driving experience once you get used to it. You're driving an EV, not an ICE. Take advantage of that!

  5. #25
    Senior Member DrJeff's Avatar
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    New Tesla Parts Haul

    Got some more Tesla parts for the TesLorean...

    1. Steering column and wheel (motor driven up/down, in/out adjustment, stalk controls, computer interface controls)
    2. dc-dc converter (uses 400v supply to generate 12v supply)
    3. high voltage (400v) junction and distribution box (sends power to AC, coolant heater, PTC cabin heater, power steering)
    4. electric coolant heater
    5. A/C coolant chiller (uses AC supply to chill coolant)
    6. coolant pumps (x3)
    7. coolant diverter valves (x4) (used to direct coolant flow as needed to the batteries, drive unit, dc-dc converter, cabin, chiller)

    Tesla Parts Haul.jpg
    Jeff
    #6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...

  6. #26
    Senior Member DrJeff's Avatar
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    Calipers : Trashy in a sexy kind of way

    They look sort of trashy in a sexy kind of way, and like most lingerie they won't be seen by the public.

    Front Brake Calipers Refurbished.jpg
    Jeff
    #6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...

  7. #27
    Senior Member DrJeff's Avatar
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    Test fitting Front Suspension bits - except swaybar

    After a lot of preparation and playing with spring compressors, I finally got to test fit all the front suspension components (except the sway bar). Everything fits pretty good, after some trials with the LHS spring bowing out and striking the angle drive. Re-greased and refitted the original angle drive (creates another 5mm space) and fits the spindle nut better. Also turned the spring so that the end of the spring was outermost at the lower control arm.

    Front LHS Rear.jpgFront LHS Side.jpgFront RHS Front.jpgFront RHS Rear.jpgFront RHS Side.jpg
    Jeff
    #6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...

  8. #28
    Senior Member Domi's Avatar
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    They look great in red

  9. #29
    Senior Member
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    Location:  Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111

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    brake pads

    I didn't know there is supposed to be springs pushing the pads apart?
    Or is this something you added?

  10. #30
    Senior Member DrJeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Spoiler View Post
    I didn't know there is supposed to be springs pushing the pads apart?
    Or is this something you added?
    Hervey (SpecialTAuto) sells them as anti-chatter solutions, i.e. springs and washers. Needed a small cable tie to compress the spring while fitting. I haven't driven on them yet, so no idea if they make any difference.
    Jeff
    #6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...

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