The TesLorean

[DMCMW Dave]

- rear fascia held on by fender washers (look like post production or late production adds), get to inside of pontoon through vacuum canister door and through air intake opening.

Jeff

That's a really common "enhancement" but I've never been able to figure out if it was an assembly line "fix" or something they did a the QAC. It is VERY common.

[DrJeff]

After many months of preparing, measuring, rechecking, I got to see today how the Tesla motor will sit in the DeLorean engine cradle. This was just a test fit up... still lots of cleaning and work to do on the frame in preparation. Next up... building motor mounts and measuring for driveshafts.

The Tesla Drive Unit is the 260 HP and 250 lbft (at 0 rpm) motor from the rear of a Tesla Model S 70D. I had guestimated that the 70D rear motor would be able to sit at the bottom of the engine cradle (22in across) and yet position so that the driveshafts would be roughly aligned to run to the DeLorean stock wheel hubs without interference. The fit up gets pretty close, just need to leave room for the High Voltage feed to the drive unit and also tip the transmission (nose down) to keep the driveshafts clear of the trailing arms.

Rolled the frame rearwards to get access to the engine.
Engine in Bay from Back.jpg

Transmission and Front of Engine shown from above.
Transmission in Bay from Above.jpg

Engine bay with engine and transmission removed.
Empty Bay from Above.jpg

Tesla Motor (drive unit = motor, transmission, and inverter) shown in engine bay from the rear.
Motor from Rear.jpg

Tesla drive unit shown from the side (highlighting the space at the rear of the engine bay)
Motor from Side.jpg

Tesla drive unit in the engine bay shown from above
Motor in Bay from Above.jpg

Close up of the Tesla Drive Unit in the engine bay from the rear.
Motor Position Close Rear.jpg

The CV connection to the Tesla transmission will sit about 4 inches further forward than the stock Delorean shafts. The Tesla transmission sits to one side, so I'm going to use the lay (intermediate) shaft from the Tesla front motor. Rough measurements tonight put the drive shafts at about 20 and 19 inches long.

The Tesla drive unit is about 200lbs and replaces the DeLorean engine and transmission. Of course the TesLorean will have to accommodate a heavy 400v battery, however it can be distributed in multiple places around the car.

[Lwanmtr]

Could you use the stock transmission with that motor?

[DMCMW Dave]

Could you use the stock transmission with that motor?

For about 30 seconds, assuming you could figure out a way to hook it up.

[Chris4099]

Could you use the stock transmission with that motor?

The way Tesla designs these, the motor is on one side with the power inverter on the other side and the differential in-between. To mount a motor directly to the transmission, you need to redesign the power inverter to mount separately so you can eliminate the differential (there's cooling lines and wiring between the two, so no simple task). You really don't want a standard transmission with an Tesla motor anyway. The power band and RPM range is so wide that it allows the motor to be connected to a single speed transmission. Just adding more gears to change ratios only reduces efficiency and reliability. Plus, it's way cooler to be in a car that just has this constant acceleration from 0-100+ MPH without any delays from changing gears.

[DrJeff]

I did some more positioning of the drive unit today. The drive unit can be tipped nose down by up to 45 degrees (and still have the transmission oil pump functional). This brings the transmission CVs to within 1 inch of the stock position.

It leaves some interesting engine mount challenges, but all manageable. Next step is to mock up some engine mounts. Also confirmed that the drive unit will sit below the support bar that spans across the rear shock towers. This means that the drive unit can be pulled up and back, or forward and down (akin to transmission removal) if it needs to come out for maintenance.

[DrJeff]

Doing work today on getting ready to rebuild the brake lines...

Here's a photo (looking from the front of the car) of the brakes lines (sans car) without the flexible lines included. The foremost section is for the front wheels. The rear section runs from the master cylinder, along the outside and then underside of the central tunnel, and then splits off to each wheel. The rear outer lines run from the flexible lines down to the rear calipers along the trailing arms.
Brake Lines Alone - from Front.jpg

These are my measurements, but if someone knows better I'd be delighted to be corrected. The brake lines are 3/6 (tubing OD). Male fittings appear to be 10mm x 1.0, 11mm long (but I could be wrong - they could be 3/8-24). The female fittings are also 10mmx1.0 (assuming I got the males correct). The only fittings that are a different size (on the brake lines) are the connections into the rear calipers. These appear to be 3/8x24thread and 5/8in long. I measured the rough lengths (in inches, ~approx).
Brake Line Specs.jpg

The brake line flares appear to be DIN/ISO Bubble Flare at the male fittings, and Double/SAE 45 degree flare at the female fittings.
Female Brake Line - Flare Side View.jpgFemale Brake Line - Flare.jpgMale Brake Line - Flare.jpg

As regards the TesLorean, I'll be using the iBooster from the Tesla (autopilot capable) which replaces the vacuum booster with electric braking support. The outlets from the brake master cylinder are 1/4in lines. I'll be using 1/4 to 3/16 adapters to connect the iBooster to the DeLorean lines. The iBooster sits closer to the firewall than the stock DeLorean master (since there is no vacuum booster). I'm leaning towards nicopp (nickel copper alloy lines) rather than stainless just to make the task of working it easier and reduce the likelihood of stresses from bending.

[DrJeff]

Found this old thread with brake fittings information from TommyRich in post #6. Excellent table of data included. Thanks to TommyRich for posting.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12...nd-Thread-Size

Here's the direct link to the table of data (as an image).
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1438968021

[tommyrich]

Thanks to TommyRich for posting.

You are most welcome

[DrJeff]

Did some test fitting for the iBooster (vacuum-less electronic brake assist) and EPS (electric power steering). The EPS has been long planned, but the motor location sits where the existing steering column to steering box linkage is. This area is also occupied by the brake lines coming out of the stock master cylinder.

The iBooster is going to be mounted in place of the stock vacuum booster and brake master cylinder. The stock brake 'spacer' (which holds the brake booster away from the firewall) will need to be modified slightly (shortened), to provide enough space for the EPS motor unit. The iBooster brake lines emerge from inside-side of the master cylinder (the stock DeLorean cylinder lines emerge from the outside-side - which conflicts with the motor placement). Between shifting the iBooster towards the firewall and relocating the brakelines inwards, there is enough space for the EPS motor unit. The motor unit will be secured by a bracket to the LHS shock tower inward side (where the front brake line T is currently located). The brake line T will relocate to the other side of the iBooster brake master cylinder. I'll likely be adding a proportioning valve for adjustments to the front/rear brake force - to more closely emulate the stock master cylinder.

Shows the rough positioning of the iBooster (vacuum booster and master cylinder replacement). A modified version of the stock bracket 'spacer' will be used. The 'fork' on the front of the iBooster (which connects to the brake pedal linkage) is removable (threaded) and will be replaced by a longer plunger to connect to the stock DeLorean brake pedal.
iBooster Rough Position.jpg

Shows the rough positioning of the EPS unit. The EPS unit isn't sitting in exactly the correct position (because I only have two hands).
EPS - Front View.jpgEPS - Side View.jpg

The EPS linkage is as follows...
- Steering Column (existing)
- 9/16-36 to 3/4DD vibration reducer u-joint
- 3/4DD rod (approx 4 inches)
- 3/4DD to EPS motor input u-joint
- EPS motor
- EPS bracket to frame
- EPS motor output to 9/16-36 at steering box u-joint

I would estimate (note: UNTESTED) that fitting the EPS motor unit in a car with a standard brake booster and master cylinder would be possible, however the lines into the master cylinder would need to be moved and more than likely the T-split in the lines to the front brakes.