Bosch CIS fuel pressure gauge

[FABombjoy]

- I still do have a bit of a cold start issue where the car wants to crank 4-7 seconds before firing up, then it will hunt pretty good for the next minute until it warms up and settles at 775 RPM.

Just to be sure - is this behavior consistent now? Whenever I've opened up my fuel system or the car has sat for a long time it always takes a bit longer for the first start. After you changed injectors I wouldn't be surprised to see a delayed startup on your first try, but the next day have a much quicker cold start.

[DMCVegas]

In the Owner's Manual, the instructions clearly states that when cranking, you want to hold the Accelerator Pedal down ¼ of the way. Now, people have argued with me for years that's incorrect, because it *probably* was just copy/pasted from a carbureted PRV manual.

BUT take a look at this: Volvo in their Owner's Manual has instructions that state: If the engine does not start at once, depress the throttle pedal half way and keep it there until the engine starts.

http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/...E/83760_03.htm

The fuel system diagram doesn't *look* like the CSV should be affected by the throttle plate, but holding down the throttle pedal would eat least allow the upper and lower chambers of the Fuel Distributor to fill more quickly as the plate is then depressed from the inbound air, and the plunger slides open.

I've always noticed I've had longer cranks when starting the engine when leaving the pedal alone. EFI Injectors not only run at lower pressures, but also are designed to flow enough additional fuel during cold starts that an additional injector isn't needed. That's why you needn't press the pedal when cranking a modern car. But if even Volvo is telling owners to hold the pedal down during cranking, it absolutely affects starting.

[Morpheus]

Tons of useful info in this thread. I have my own WUR issues to troubleshoot, but I will start with cleaning it first and see where that gets me.