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Thread: Bosch CIS fuel pressure gauge

  1. #31
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    I know I unplugged the electrical portion of the WUR, Though I am now questioning if I pulled the vacuum hose off too. I'll have to hook up the pressure gauge again and disconnect everything from the WUR and cold start it just to make sure the pressure is still high. I would rather it be a mistake in testing than my wallet being $200 lighter.....

    If I confirm I still have 40 psi cold starting control pressure, I replace the WUR Correct? If I have normal cold starting psi without anything connected then it safe to assume have something wonky going on with the vacuum system right?
    I know I would test w/ vac disconnected just to be sure. I would also do the warm tests using the vacuum pump just to see what the results are.

    If you are the type that likes to tinker both cold & warm pressures are adjustable and rebuild parts are available, but I don't feel qualified enough to write a comprehensive guide.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  2. #32
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    I know I would test w/ vac disconnected just to be sure. I would also do the warm tests using the vacuum pump just to see what the results are.

    If you are the type that likes to tinker both cold & warm pressures are adjustable and rebuild parts are available, but I don't feel qualified enough to write a comprehensive guide.
    https://youtu.be/mMcAa-yobTg

    Here is the video of the test for control pressure with the electrical and vacuum pulled from the WUR. Looks like a little over 30 psi..... Does this warrant WUR replacement or is it just a sign it may be going out? Remember I just replaced a seized ISM that was 3/4 closed.

    After the video was taken I hooked up the vacuum and electrical to the WUR and it slowly climbed to 50 psi until it stabilized.

    On a side note i did test the cold start valve in a jar while plugging the pipe hole with one finger and someone cranking the starter. The cold start valve sprayed fuel until the engine started and the key was let go from cranking. So now I know the thermotime switch and cold start valve is good.
    I don't have a vacuum gauge but just blew into th vacuum delay valve and noticed when I blew from the black side air passes, but if I blow from the white side it feels restricted. This is normal right?
    Last edited by Trstno1; 03-09-2016 at 09:37 PM.
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  3. #33
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    The graph in the manual isn't very precise, but at what you're showing on the gauge for a dead-cold car would be normal if the ambient temp was between about.. 55-70 degrees or thereabouts?

    Your VDV test sounds about right.

    To follow the vacuum port test to the letter you do need a handheld vac pump or some other source with a gauge so you can set it at 13-16 in/Hg. You could probably just tap it into manifold vac and see if it drops to around the 1.4-1.8 spec'd in the manual (from the 3.4-3.8 warm control pressure).
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  4. #34
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    The graph in the manual isn't very precise, but at what you're showing on the gauge for a dead-cold car would be normal if the ambient temp was between about.. 55-70 degrees or thereabouts?

    Your VDV test sounds about right.

    To follow the vacuum port test to the letter you do need a handheld vac pump or some other source with a gauge so you can set it at 13-16 in/Hg. You could probably just tap it into manifold vac and see if it drops to around the 1.4-1.8 spec'd in the manual (from the 3.4-3.8 warm control pressure).
    Yup, I think the temp in the garage is at 60 degrees. So the WUR is good! Yayy! That saves me some money. I really appreciate the help!!
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  5. #35
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    Yup, I think the temp in the garage is at 60 degrees. So the WUR is good! Yayy! That saves me some money. I really appreciate the help!!
    Do that warmed up vacuum test first then you can celebrate
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  6. #36
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Do that warmed up vacuum test first then you can celebrate
    Will do. I have the vacuum gauge on order now. Though I must admit without touching the accelerator on cold start up, the car will crank for a little bit prior to starting and the hunt pretty bad for a minute prior to calming down at 775 rpm. Then just run a little lumpy.

    Any other things this could be? Cold start valve tested good. It sprays fuel when cranking starter and shuts off once starter is not engaged anymore. Could this simply be a fuel injector issue?
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  7. #37
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Gauge or pump? One of those Mightyvac (or similar) hand pumps is what you're looking for. They're useful for other things too.

    In the mean time you could at least verify that the upper and lower chambers hold vacuum by running a line to each, sucking the air out, and seeing if it holds.

    With the WUR ruled out you'll then venture off into other parts of the system that I don't have a lot of experience with but others do.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  8. #38
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Gauge or pump? One of those Mightyvac (or similar) hand pumps is what you're looking for. They're useful for other things too.

    In the mean time you could at least verify that the upper and lower chambers hold vacuum by running a line to each, sucking the air out, and seeing if it holds.

    With the WUR ruled out you'll then venture off into other parts of the system that I don't have a lot of experience with but others do.
    Could you show me a pic of the pump you are talking about?
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  9. #39
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    Could you show me a pic of the pump you are talking about?
    I'm on mobile right now, but if you Google Mightyvac you'll see what I mean
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  10. #40
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2014

    Location:  Anchorage, Alaska

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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    I'm on mobile right now, but if you Google Mightyvac you'll see what I mean
    Ok, got the pump. Where exactly do you hook it up? And how exactly do you connect the test? What are the desired results?
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

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