Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
Alright guys-

I did test the low pressure switch and by jumpering the switch the AC clutch and fans kicked on. So I guess I just have low refrigerant. Im not sure if I'm going to do the conversion to 134a quite yet prior to seeing if I can aquire either freeze 12 or R420a. Though I am curious.... How does one test the oil level in the compressor? Is there a dip stick? Will I lose any sort of pressure by removing the oil fill nut? And what do I not want to disconnect in order to not die from freon inhalation?

Also, where is the low pressure fill point on the compressor? Is it the one on the left, drivers side?
The Sanden compressor does not have a sump. The oil that is in the compressor when you first install it will get dispersed and circulated around the AC system the very moment you first kick on the compressor, so don't expect a specific oil level in the compressor at this point. The dip stick is pretty much useless. The lubrication of the compressor comes from the oil that is carried with the refrigerant as it circulates around the AC system and enters/exits the compressor. (The ideal oil circulation ratio is 3% by weight - fyi - but none of that really matters here.) So the compressor sees a steady and continuous supply of cooled oil.

If you unscrew the oil plug on the compressor you will blow the entire refrigerant charge. Don't do it. The oil will make a mess in your engine compartment, maybe even your entire garage and you may get frost-bite from exposure to the refrigerant. Freon is not poisonous but it is odorless; the danger comes in if it displaces the air that you breath in a small confined space.

So, back to basics: Check your pressures with refrigeration gauges; look for/fix leaks; evacuate the system and fill the recommended amount. I am not going to elaborate on this part - there should be plenty of youtube videos that walk you through this. Good luck!