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Thread: No AC

  1. #1
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    No AC

    K-

    The AC has never worked on my car since I purchased it. Testing the 12v. Lead to the compressor I get nothing. If I give the wire 12v my compressor and fans kick on and my air is almost immediately much colder. What do I check next? The low pressure switch? Is that the one on the condenser? If I short the switch and the compressor and fans come on I just have low refrigerant right? It looks as though the system is still r12 so I imagine it would be a large expense swapping to R134? I read somewhere that r12 is now illegal in most states. Why is this?
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  2. #2
    Senior Member Jonathan's Avatar
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    I would not suggest forcing 12v onto the compressor to actually get it to run. If indeed it is low on refrigerant, running the compressor this way will likely lead to damaging the unit.

    To test whether your system is not coming on due to a low pressure problem, jumper the low pressure switch up at the front right wheel well and listen for the compressor clutch to "clack" in. Do this without the engine running, i.e. ignition key turned to accessories only. If the clutch clacks in while the low pressure switch is jumpered, then it is one of two things:

    1.) your refrigerant level is low (likely)
    2.) the low pressure switch itself is bad (less likely)

    If you do the test and find the clutch clacks in, you then should be measuring the refrigerant pressure with gauges hooked up to the proper ports. Or measure the pressures right away.

    Again, I recommend not forcing the system to run with low refrigerant.

    As for getting it topped up with R12 in the US, someone else can tell you about that. I think it got banned because it was bad for the ozone layer. Converting to R134 or whatever could be expensive, yes. You could also add a can or two of the R12 equivalent stuff and see how it goes.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I would not suggest forcing 12v onto the compressor to actually get it to run. If indeed it is low on refrigerant, running the compressor this way will likely lead to damaging the unit.

    To test whether your system is not coming on due to a low pressure problem, jumper the low pressure switch up at the front right wheel well and listen for the compressor clutch to "clack" in. Do this without the engine running, i.e. ignition key turned to accessories only. If the clutch clacks in while the low pressure switch is jumpered, then it is one of two things:

    1.) your refrigerant level is low (likely)
    2.) the low pressure switch itself is bad (less likely)

    If you do the test and find the clutch clacks in, you then should be measuring the refrigerant pressure with gauges hooked up to the proper ports. Or measure the pressures right away.

    Again, I recommend not forcing the system to run with low refrigerant.

    As for getting it topped up with R12 in the US, someone else can tell you about that. I think it got banned because it was bad for the ozone layer. Converting to R134 or whatever could be expensive, yes. You could also add a can or two of the R12 equivalent stuff and see how it goes.
    Thanks for the info. I'll check the low pressure switch next. Btw, What is the r12 equivalent stuff? Also, I noticed in the auto parts store a r12 to 134a adaptor kit. I'm assuming it's not as simple as just putting the conversion nipples on and filling with r134 right?
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  4. #4
    Senior Member hmcelraft's Avatar
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    Did you check fuse #10?

  5. #5
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    R12 to R134 conversion

    I've converted several cars including my Porsche 928 and my Delorean without problems. Buy the kit or just buy the low (suction) side conversion nipple that they keep in a box behind the counter. Screw it directly over the R12 nipple. Get the can of R134 Freon that also has oil in it (usually comes with a short length of hose). Put it in and see if the compressor clutch begins to grab and spin. Go to Harbor freight and buy the $49 a/c gauge set. Hook up the low pressure (blue) connection, get a regular can of R134 and the needle tapping fitting and put the can in until you reach about 35 psi. Worked for me. R12 and R134 will work together but you need the compressor oil to be full. I just changed my a/c hoses so had to drain the entire system and change out the dryer but it is ice cold.

  6. #6
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
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    I had DMCMW recharge mine with Red Tek R12a. It's cheaper than R12 and really cold.

  7. #7
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    Thanks for the info. I'll check the low pressure switch next. Btw, What is the r12 equivalent stuff?
    R12 equivalent aka Freeze 12 if you look at the chemical make up it is a 25/75 blend of R12/134a.



    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    Also, I noticed in the auto parts store a r12 to 134a adaptor kit. I'm assuming it's not as simple as just putting the conversion nipples on and filling with r134 right?
    Back in mid to late 90's when conversions were just beginning to be common place. The conversion kits were supposed to be drop in replacements. I had a couple late 80's and early 90's daily drivers converted and never had an issue for the duration I continued using the cars. This was not the case for the Delorean though.

    With original A/C lines now 33-35 years old the likely hood of doing a successful drop in 134a conversion that holds pressure for the driving season is getting slim. Component age is working against you.

    At bare minimum doing a 134a conversion, requires dumping the Mineral oil out of the compressor and replacing the accumulator. It is recommended you flush the entire system for best results. You should replace the orifice tube.

    Both PAG and Ester oils will tolerate blending with the small amounts of mineral oil without any serious adverse affects. This assumes most of the mineral oil was drained from the compressor and any oil in the accumulator aka reciever/dryer, is gone with it's replacement.

    To do a proper conversion with the best chance of long term success requires replacing all the hoses with 134a Barrier type hose and a compressor in addition to the accumulator. This assumes the condenser and evaporator don't have any corrosion leaks.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  8. #8
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    I did some reading on the Red Tek 12a mentioned above. This looks like it will be the new normal in A/C refrigerants. The Delorean would only require about 12 oz for a full charge. However it does say it is NOT compatible with butyl rubber hoses. I'm not sure what the OE hoses are in the D. It also warns NOT to charge a system with a "0" atmosphere Hard vacuum on it. This would imply you release the vacuum after a system evacuation and fill at static atmosphere.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmcelraft View Post
    Did you check fuse #10?
    Fuse 10 is good. Next test is jumpering the low pressure switch....
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  10. #10
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=cdrusn;192948]I've converted several cars including my Porsche 928 and my Delorean without problems. Buy the kit or just buy the low (suction) side conversion nipple that they keep in a box behind the counter. Screw it directly over the R12 nipple. Get the can of R134 Freon that also has oil in it (usually comes with a short length of hose). Put it in and see if the compressor clutch begins to grab and spin. Go to Harbor freight and buy the $49 a/c gauge set. Hook up the low pressure (blue) connection, get a regular can of R134 and the needle tapping fitting and put the can in until you reach about 35 psi. Worked for me. R12 and R134 will work together but you need the compressor oil to be full. I just changed my a/c hoses so had to drain the entire system and change out the dryer but it is ice cold. :race

    Wow! I might have to see if there is a you tube video on this.....
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

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