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Thread: No AC

  1. #31
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    Alright guys-

    I did test the low pressure switch and by jumpering the switch the AC clutch and fans kicked on. So I guess I just have low refrigerant. Im not sure if I'm going to do the conversion to 134a quite yet prior to seeing if I can aquire either freeze 12 or R420a. Though I am curious.... How does one test the oil level in the compressor? Is there a dip stick? Will I lose any sort of pressure by removing the oil fill nut? And what do I not want to disconnect in order to not die from freon inhalation?

    Also, where is the low pressure fill point on the compressor? Is it the one on the left, drivers side?
    The Sanden compressor does not have a sump. The oil that is in the compressor when you first install it will get dispersed and circulated around the AC system the very moment you first kick on the compressor, so don't expect a specific oil level in the compressor at this point. The dip stick is pretty much useless. The lubrication of the compressor comes from the oil that is carried with the refrigerant as it circulates around the AC system and enters/exits the compressor. (The ideal oil circulation ratio is 3% by weight - fyi - but none of that really matters here.) So the compressor sees a steady and continuous supply of cooled oil.

    If you unscrew the oil plug on the compressor you will blow the entire refrigerant charge. Don't do it. The oil will make a mess in your engine compartment, maybe even your entire garage and you may get frost-bite from exposure to the refrigerant. Freon is not poisonous but it is odorless; the danger comes in if it displaces the air that you breath in a small confined space.

    So, back to basics: Check your pressures with refrigeration gauges; look for/fix leaks; evacuate the system and fill the recommended amount. I am not going to elaborate on this part - there should be plenty of youtube videos that walk you through this. Good luck!

  2. #32
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    Do you guys know if the red trek 12a works with the mineral oil currently in the system?
    I am sure Red Trek will claim "yes". That tends to be the point of these aftermarket replacement refrigerants.

    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    Also, is there any way to check on the level of the mineral oil in there?
    See my previous post. Actually, if you go to sanden.com and click on their Support tab you will find everything you need to know right there.

  3. #33
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    If you plan to use the Redtek 12a. Go to their official website for installation procedures and volumetric equivalent charts for the amounts to use. I post a link to their site back on page 1 of this thread. Fwiw the amount of Redtek 12a needed is about 35% of that for R12.


    Dennis
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  4. #34
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    If you plan to use the Redtek 12a. Go to their official website for installation procedures and volumetric equivalent charts for the amounts to use. I post a link to their site back on page 1 of this thread. Fwiw the amount of Redtek 12a needed is about 35% of that for R12.


    Dennis
    So just curious.....if I decide to go with Redtek12a will I need to drain the system first or could I just fill it with the refrigerant/oil blend and see if the compressor kicks on?

    I'm going to check around town, but if R12 is illegal I'm fairly confident that nobody will touch it with a 20 ft pole. So I guess that leaves me working on it. If that's the case I wouldn't mind trying a new product especially if it means that I don't have to replace anything to do so. If RedTek12a ends up shortening the life of AC components so be it. As it is, it doesn't work now....

    Has anyone used this kit? It's on Amazon for $75 right now.

    Oh, and just to clarify.....The low pressure fill is the one on the left (drivers side) of the compressor right? Is there currently a vacuum in the system?
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  5. #35
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    So just curious.....if I decide to go with Redtek12a will I need to drain the system first or could I just fill it with the refrigerant/oil blend and see if the compressor kicks on?

    I'm going to check around town, but if R12 is illegal I'm fairly confident that nobody will touch it with a 20 ft pole. So I guess that leaves me working on it. If that's the case I wouldn't mind trying a new product especially if it means that I don't have to replace anything to do so. If RedTek12a ends up shortening the life of AC components so be it. As it is, it doesn't work now....

    Has anyone used this kit? It's on Amazon for $75 right now.

    Oh, and just to clarify.....The low pressure fill is the one on the left (drivers side) of the compressor right? Is there currently a vacuum in the system?
    The system should be empty and vacuumed. Any R12 still in the system (legally) must be recovered using a service machine. It is Illegal to knowingly dump R12. R12 is a legal product but you must be certified service shop to purchase it. It's been 22 years since it was outlawed to be in NEW automobiles. There are fewer and fewer shops dealing with R12 these days. It requires separate equipment.
    I'd bet if go to your local auto parts place and ask the manager if he knows of any shops that still work with R12, he'd be able to point you in the right direction. Salvage yards are a good place for this also. They must recover all refrigerants from salvaged vehicles.

    The low pressure port is identified with S (suction) on the compressor head.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #36
    aka RacerX Ryan S.'s Avatar
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    Check your local Crigs List. Sometimes you will see r12 cans for sale. Might be expensive. Like $25 per can.

  7. #37
    Senior Member
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    I have RedTek12 in my car and have not had any problems with it. I need to put more in again though as it has leaked out enough to not satisfy the low pressure switch. The leak is pretty slow, probably at one of the seals at the compressor. At the time I liked the idea of getting it working again for $50 and not $2,000 if I had to go ahead and replace a bunch of the components. I choose not to follow the fear factor notion that this is a product any more dangerous than other aspects of your car. If it was that incredibly dangerous to the public, it would already be outlawed. Look at what lengths we go to to protect our public by printing HOT on the lid of your take out coffee cup. If this stuff was so nasty and prone to bad things happening to people, all the lawyers out there would have jumped all over it long ago.

    If you do take a car into a shop that has RedTek12 or equivalent in the system, even if it is near empty like mine, have the decency to mention it to the guy beforehand. The shop will empty your system ahead of time and recapture what is already in there and if he doesn't know it has had a RedTek12 product in it and that then goes through his reclaim system, you'll have contaminated it for him. He can still work on it for you, but you'll need to make sure it is completely empty first, i.e. hook your RedTek12 gauge set up to it and let it hiss empty out in the open before taking the car to him. Or he'll let it hiss out before he starts working on it.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  8. #38
    Senior Member hippieman9's Avatar
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    Location:  Haw River, NC

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    My VIN:    06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001.

    So I have been reading the threads on A/C on here and I have a couple questions.. First My A/C blows warm. It was converted about 4 years ago by the PO at DMC CA to Red tek. I purchased a recharge kit on Amazon for the red tek. It doesn't state that it works with R12, But I called them and they confirmed that it does. They just can't advertise it. SO
    I am not A/C savvy but I can work my way around it. Looking at the system I figured that the left port (Looking at the compressor, standing at the rear of the car facing the front) is the low side. I attached my gauge and started the car with the A/C cranked. I watched the gauge go from 40psi to 20psi. Now I haven't added any freon yet. The compressor kicks on at 40psi, when the gauge reached 20 it shut off. I also noticed that the cooling fans were only running when the compressor was engaged. Is this normal? I would assume that the fans should run all the time when the A/C is on.
    So with all that said, It looks like the freon has enough psi, but yet it still blows warm.

    Question #2With The A/C on I have noticed driving the car that the battery light will come on once in a while for a second or two and go out. only with the A/C. I have tried other combos of stuff but this is the only time i see this light come on. With that in mind the Volt meter stays steady at 13Volts. Bad ground?? Also Where are all the grounds that need to be checked for corrosion?
    Thanks!!
    Ryan
    Vin6668

  9. #39
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hippieman9 View Post
    So I have been reading the threads on A/C on here and I have a couple questions.. First My A/C blows warm. It was converted about 4 years ago by the PO at DMC CA to Red tek. I purchased a recharge kit on Amazon for the red tek. It doesn't state that it works with R12, But I called them and they confirmed that it does. They just can't advertise it. SO
    I am not A/C savvy but I can work my way around it. Looking at the system I figured that the left port (Looking at the compressor, standing at the rear of the car facing the front) is the low side. I attached my gauge and started the car with the A/C cranked. I watched the gauge go from 40psi to 20psi. Now I haven't added any freon yet. The compressor kicks on at 40psi, when the gauge reached 20 it shut off. I also noticed that the cooling fans were only running when the compressor was engaged. Is this normal? I would assume that the fans should run all the time when the A/C is on.
    So with all that said, It looks like the freon has enough psi, but yet it still blows warm.

    Question #2With The A/C on I have noticed driving the car that the battery light will come on once in a while for a second or two and go out. only with the A/C. I have tried other combos of stuff but this is the only time i see this light come on. With that in mind the Volt meter stays steady at 13Volts. Bad ground?? Also Where are all the grounds that need to be checked for corrosion?
    Thanks!!
    Ryan
    Vin6668
    1. Yes. Power from the Mode Switch must go through the Low Pressure Switch before reaching the compressor.

    2. When the compressor coil is engaged, the winding can induce a signal into the electrical system and cause the light to come on briefly. Adding a diode across the coil input should cure the problem...
    Low RPM caused by "large" Alternator Pulley diameter, etc. can also...

    GROUND LOCATION LIST in RESOURCES

  10. #40
    Senior Member hippieman9's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2018

    Location:  Haw River, NC

    Posts:    194

    My VIN:    06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    1. Yes. Power from the Mode Switch must go through the Low Pressure Switch before reaching the compressor.

    2. When the compressor coil is engaged, the winding can induce a signal into the electrical system and cause the light to come on briefly. Adding a diode across the coil input should cure the problem...
    Low RPM caused by "large" Alternator Pulley diameter, etc. can also...

    GROUND LOCATION LIST in RESOURCES
    Well, The Battery light will come on at highway speeds. A/C on, and I have the latest DMC Alternator on the car too.

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