Ignition tumbler sometimes won't turn

[dtavres]

I've had #10515 for a few months now. Of the ~50 times that I've inserted the key into the ignition tumbler and turned it to start the car, it has gotten 'stuck' about 5 times.

By "stuck" I mean that the key won't turn. It slides in and out with no problem, but no matter how much jiggling and wiggling, the tumbler wont' turn.

While trying to get the key to turn, I've banged on the steering column, shaken the entire steering wheel, flipping the key - nothing works.

Then, it seems completely random, the key suddenly turns.

This could be potentially bad, if I drive somewhere that I MUST move the car, but can't.

I'm hoping someone else has been through this and has some tips.

[Elvis]

Dirt in the lock ?

it can be opened and cleaned, but you need two new bolts and the old ones ar not easy to get out.

[dtavres]

Dirt in the lock ?

it can be opened and cleaned, but you need two new bolts and the old ones ar not easy to get out.

Maybe, but probably not... sprayed a fair amount of 'super-lube' in there that a locksmith recommended. Still nothin'

[content22207_2]

Been there, done that. Tumbler itself is wearing out. My ignition tumbler behaved similarly until it jambed last year while traveling to the DMCMW open house and the key broke off inside, fortunately in the run position (steering wheel unlocked). If that happens you can remove the electrical portion of the switch off and operate it manually.

Ignition tumbler is 1980's Rover, readily available new in the box on British eBay. Bolts that hold it on are shear heads, similar to the idle screws in the fuel/air mixture unit (they look like big rivets, but are shear heads with the heads snapped off). Use a Dremel tool cutoff wheel to cut slots in them and unscrew them with a flat blade screwdriver. I installed my new switch with regular hex head bolts.

Locksmith disassembled my old tumbler and discovered it was too worn to salvage (I was going to keep it as a spare after the broken off key was removed).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[dtavres]

Been there, done that. Tumbler itself is wearing out...

Thanks Bill!

I looked at the DeLorean Store, and it looks like they are out of stock.

The local locksmith looked it up and found info for the Range Rover... I'll check with them first to see if they have parts and compare the cost to the eBay stuff.

THANK YOU!

[Michael]

If you can, pull the tumbler assembley. I believe it has to be in the on position to come out but I haven't done it in years. There is a small pin that has worked itself out a little and is catching the housing preventing it from turning. You can press it back in but it will probably work itself out again over time....that may be all there is to your problem!

I made another pin from a piece of round stock and it has been fine ever since. That was 2009ish. You may be able to put a drop of thin superglue on the top of the old pin...a small drop on top of the pin, you don't want to glue your tumbler together.

In a emergency you can gently work the key (without forcing anything) and you may get it to turn to the start position, just don't turn it back to lock.

The tumblers are hard to come by but if you are lucky you can fix it cheap.

[Jonathan]

Another possibility could be that the key itself is worn.

How does your key look, Dave? Are the edges crisp and sharp? If they are worn down and rounded, you may benefit from getting a new key cut by laser from the key code.

You can do this a couple different ways. One would be to contact James in Houston and they can cut you a new key, from one of their new blanks, using the key code you need. To determine that key code, you might be able to get it from under the headliner in the car, or you might need them to figure it out from looking closely at a couple photos of your key.

The other way would be to find a local locksmith who also has that same Ilco laser cutting machine, and have them physically scan your current ignition key and determine the key code on the spot. The number itself will not be as crucial, as they will cut a new key on the spot after the machine internally decides what your new one needs to look like.

[content22207_2]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER...q9HoBgeeBNFLRg

I had some double sided keys cut -- ignition tumbler on one side and door locks on the other. Rover tumbler and door locks accept Volvo key blanks (Taylor X29 in my case).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Trstno1]

If you can, pull the tumbler assembley. I believe it has to be in the on position to come out but I haven't done it in years. There is a small pin that has worked itself out a little and is catching the housing preventing it from turning. You can press it back in but it will probably work itself out again over time....that may be all there is to your problem!

I made another pin from a piece of round stock and it has been fine ever since. That was 2009ish. You may be able to put a drop of thin superglue on the top of the old pin...a small drop on top of the pin, you don't want to glue your tumbler together.

In a emergency you can gently work the key (without forcing anything) and you may get it to turn to the start position, just don't turn it back to lock.

The tumblers are hard to come by but if you are lucky you can fix it cheap.

I agree with Michael -

If your car has ever been re-keyed the ignition cylinder will have been drilled into and a pin placed into the cylinder to hold it all together after they were done. That was such the case when I first got my car, and I too had issues every once in a while turning the key in the ignition. The pin itself was loose and forcing its way into the cylinder preventing it from turning. I tried and tried to fix it to no avail. Finally I gave up and tracked down another key cylinder with key from someone here on the forum. I paid a pretty penny for it but it worked perfectly and have never had an issue since.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

The ignition lock cylinder is prone to wear and you need to remove the lock and have it gone over by a good locksmith. I've had many reworked over the years by mine. The biggest problem is the housing wears and the ball bearing that guides the key can jamb in the barrel of the housing. BTW we have the correct NOS shear bolts for security and also machined to fit Allen bolts if you prefer easier removal. The best thing all owners can do is retire your original key, a large percentage of which are steel, and substitute our chrome plated brass duplicate or similar brass key. That allows the key to wear rather than transfer extra wear to the cylinder. Brass on brass is much gentler than steel on brass. Check the tumbler cuts on your key to determine if it's chrome plated brass or steel. Periodically lubing all the locks with WD 40 or "Lockease" is also advisable.
Rob