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Thread: Door strut bracket recomendations - Grady or Heninger?

  1. #41
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Heninger's Lower door strut brackets

    I know.....super old thread.

    However, does anyone know of a vendor selling a product like Heninger's lower door strut brackets? I would buy a set but just found out he's officially out of business.

    Or

    Might anyone have a set sitting around they would like to sell?

    My drivers door bracket is bent pretty good and my drivers door has never fully opened on its own since I bought the car. Prior to doing any sort of a torsion bar adjustment I wanted to fix the brackets to see if they would make the difference. I have already replace the struts with sets from multiple different vendor's to no avail. Its either the bent door strut bracket, or a weak torsion bar.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated,
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  2. #42
    Senior Member Jonathan's Avatar
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    Are you talking about the ball stud that the lower half of the door strut attaches to? And the reinforcing brackets if those studs get crooked?

    I saw these available on the DeLoreanGO website not long ago. I can't comment personally about how well they work, or don't work, only that it is another option.

    https://www.deloreango.com/ca/stainl...epair-kit.html
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  3. #43
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Are you talking about the ball stud that the lower half of the door strut attaches to? And the reinforcing brackets if those studs get crooked?

    I saw these available on the DeLoreanGO website not long ago. I can't comment personally about how well they work, or don't work, only that it is another option.

    https://www.deloreango.com/ca/stainl...epair-kit.html

    I was looking for this version:

    DSCF4908.jpg

    It looks like I would not have to mess with the rear quarter panel with that one. Does anyone know if a door would not completely open on its own with that lower ball stud being bent outward? I was hoping to not have to do a torsion bar adjustment.
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  4. #44
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
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    You don’t have to take out the quarter panel to use Heningers brackets, but you do have to pull the headliners... which is also a pain. I’m sad to hear he’s hung it up for good - I have his ball stud brackets and they are awesome. It’s how the car should have been designed in the first place, the factory stud design is ludicrous in comparison.

    I did originally pull my quarter panels to replace the lower stud with the OEM style (but improved, via DPI) brackets, but found the fiberglass damage around the stud to be more than I was prepared to tackle.

    A torsion bar adjustment shouldn’t be so scary to you, they are relatively simple if you build the jig and follow instructions. But should be done only after you’ve replaced the gas struts. If you’ve done that and the door still won’t open right, it’s probably the torsion bar. The studs being pushed out slightly would cause the doors not to reach their full height and/or hang unevenly, but they should still open to their full range on their own. The studs would just constrain that range, slightly.

    You do want to fix the studs if they’re pushed out though. Only a matter of time until it breaks free completely, and that’s a bad situation. Sounds like you need to do both jobs.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, April 2012 to present
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  5. #45
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jawn101 View Post
    You donít have to take out the quarter panel to use Heningers brackets, but you do have to pull the headliners... which is also a pain. Iím sad to hear heís hung it up for good - I have his ball stud brackets and they are awesome. Itís how the car should have been designed in the first place, the factory stud design is ludicrous in comparison.
    I have the Heninger brackets and they came with pop rivets so you don't need to pull the headliners. They do work great. All they are is some angle iron cut and bent a little with a shorter ball stud. You could probably make them yourself.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #46
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I have the Heninger brackets and they came with pop rivets so you don't need to pull the headliners. They do work great. All they are is some angle iron cut and bent a little with a shorter ball stud. You could probably make them yourself.
    Youíre so right. It was a long time ago so I forgot. You have to pre drill holes for the rivets so if you use a collar on your drill bit to avoid going through the headliner you should be OK. I had my headliner out to bolt down the roof box (and refurb the headliner itself) and conflated the tasks.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, April 2012 to present
    restoration log, March 2011 to April 2012
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  7. #47
    Junior Member
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    Just discovered my Pass side is bent into the body. I loosened the T and quarter to peek in and there is a minor crack starting to develop.
    Would something like DPI's or DeloreanGo's strut mount kit bet the best way to go since theres already cracking starting?
    I'm leaning towards Josh's kit at the moment.

    IMG_1799.jpg
    IMG_1802.jpg

  8. #48
    President, DeLorean Industries
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    Boxed and out on the first shipment in the am!

  9. #49
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delorean Industries View Post
    Boxed and out on the first shipment in the am!
    Wow, that is fast, thanks!

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