Just posted on the "What have you done..." thread. So I'll keep this short. Add another recommendation for Henninger's door strut brackets.
Just posted on the "What have you done..." thread. So I'll keep this short. Add another recommendation for Henninger's door strut brackets.
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
I haven't installed them yet, but I did receive DPI's brackets in the mail. Comparing them to photos of the OEM ones these are far beefier, extend much further, and look like a million bucks. Too bad no one will ever see them once installed. Also too bad that it's many hours worth of work to do them compared to the Heninger solution. The door brackets are the two with the huge welded nuts on them.
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Location: Carlisle, OH
Posts: 107
My VIN: 01495
Club(s): (DCO) (DCUK)
After reading this thread and various other theads, I've decided to buy Heningers product. My driver side door ball stud has been "crooked" since I bought it in 2005. It was always on the back burner as far as projects go, but here are is what I found:
DSC05432.jpgDSC05433.jpgDSC05443.jpg
You will notice some pretty bad fiberglass damage, as well as a bent bracket. I decided to go with Heninger because of the severity of the damage. Even if repaired, I don't know if I would trust it.
Here it is complete, but proir to a top coat of paint and RTV:
DSC05444.jpg
I actually went ahead and replaced both sides. The passenger side wasn't as bad, but still slighly crooked. There was evidence of a previous fiberglass repair anyway, and now my car appears the same on both sides for cosmetic reasons. I would recomend this option unless you want to keep 100% stock look.
I did the same. Mine have been in place for over 3 years. I would however upgrade the metal to highly polished stainless steel.
Just to show them off. What a masterpiece of engineering.
Just another thought in time!
ED
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Forgot about this thread, but I did end up using the Heninger brackets as well. I bought and started to install the ones from DPI but due to some bizarre imperfections in my tub, I could not correct the leaning studs even with the new brackets. Byrne was a lovely gent to work with and very helpful, and the brackets are really excellent.
A word to the wise though. Don't remove the ball studs from them. He torques them so they help the angle iron maintain rigidity. I removed one of mine just out of curiosity and ended up having a lot of flex in the bracket as a result. Byrne fixed it for me though...
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 1,147
My VIN: 1880
Club(s): (DCO) (DCUK)
I just discovered my driver side mount is crooked and the fiberglass is cracked. Is everyone still pleased with Henninger's repair? I would much rather go this route than have to remove a quarter panel and re-fiberglass.
Patrick C.
VIN 1880
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Kent, Wa
Posts: 44
My VIN: 2256
I ended up going with Grady's bracket. I wanted something that wouldn't be obvious as a repair. I didn't like riveting the bracket on so I made my own bracket to replace the one inside the body tub. It may be a little over kill but at least I know these brackets aren't going anywhere and hopefully the larger surface area will distribute the weight on the fiberglass tub a little more evenly.
000_0904.jpg