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Thread: It's been 9 years...

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Minnesota

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    It's been 9 years...

    It's been 9 years, and I'm just now getting annoyed with the little issues on my car....how in the world do you fix an armrest that is pulling apart? The screw is inside but I can't see anywhere on how to get in there. It seems like closed piece with no way in....very weird screw situation
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    VIN 0726

  2. #2
    Senior Member DrJeff's Avatar
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    If I remember correctly, you need to take that panel off to be able to get at that screw. The screw comes from the back of the panel side into the bolster piece.
    Jeff
    #6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...

  3. #3
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrJeff View Post
    If I remember correctly, you need to take that panel off to be able to get at that screw. The screw comes from the back of the panel side into the bolster piece.
    The screw is probably still there but pulls through the plastic. You need to take the whole side panel off, reinforce the area with some sheet metal, and then put the screw back in place.

    Pull off the inner door seal and then carefully heat the vinyl with a hair dryer so the glue releases. DO NOT CUT THE PANEL OFF.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  4. #4
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Hi there,

    I just pulled both panels off to replace the rear speakers, so if it helps, here is a picture of the panel during the un-gluing/ re-glueing process, and some tips that I learned (I used a heat gun):

    1) It works fast! You need wave the gun, and keep it 8-10 inches away from the plastic.
    2) Move it away from the area being heated after 3-5 seconds.
    3) Use the blade of the screwdriver as your guide on how much heat to apply.
    4) Too little heat is better than too much. You can always apply more to get the plastic to move/release.
    5) The plastic/ vinyl will continue to heat for a few seconds after removing the heat source.
    6) You need to do a few inches at a time to roll the plastic up and over the fiberglass edge. If you try to do one small area, you can rip the plastic
    6) Watch for plastic that becomes shiny or worse, forms bubbles. That is too hot.

    I also referred to John Spanglers great instructions:
    http://www.johnspangler.com/DMC/rearspeakers.html
    image.jpg
    Good luck,
    Dana
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Minnesota

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    My VIN:    0726

    darn, i should have done this when I put my speakers in a few years ago
    VIN 0726

  6. #6
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Taylors SC

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    My VIN:    (former)05429

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    A hair dryer will get the vinyl hot enough, and is much less dangerous (although a bit slower) than using a real heat gun.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

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