Delorean Sequencer

[Chris4099]

Now that I think about it, does the red wire power just the logic controller or does it power the lights as well? If just the logic controller, then you can run it to just the wire at the light green/pink wire as it will be live with the hazards and/or ignition. Wiring should be able to support the bulb load as well assuming they are LEDs (I would be concerned with incandescent load on that circuit).

If the standby load is just a few ma total, then maybe offer an easier option to wire directly into a constant 12v in the engine compartment. Just have a note that if the car is not driven for a few weeks or more, a battery cutoff or battery tender charger is required. If they don't have the cutoff switch and run incandescent (assuming the bulb load is on the red wire), then have them use that original wiring setup.

So ya, lots of options.

[DeepSpace Cowboy]

Chris,
I not only checked the current draw at idle, but did a incandescent vs LED current comparison with both tail lights and control boards connected. Attached are the results. But to answer the first question, at idle the two control boards draw 12.8mA together. The relay and switch could probably be eliminated as long as the car was not in storage. Attachment 44170

[Bitsyncmaster]

Chris,
I not only checked the current draw at idle, but did a incandescent vs LED current comparison with both tail lights and control boards connected. Attached are the results. But to answer the first question, at idle the two control boards draw 12.8mA together. The relay and switch could probably be eliminated as long as the car was not in storage. Attachment 44170

You would not want to leave that 12.8 ma. load on for to long. OEM door lock unit draws about 12 ma. OEM clock draws about 5 ma. If you have a clock in your radio it will draw some current also.

[DeepSpace Cowboy]

That's why the relay and bypass switch were included in the original design. The backup lights are not controlled by my circuit but all the other lights are. The power for everything else comes through the single red wire coming from the battery relay. That was the reason for the current testing. To determine what gauge of wire was needed coming from the battery. My problem is that I have no idea what kind of length is needed. That will make the final determination in wire size. It will be fused regardless.

[content22207_2]

Everyone is aware that light reflection and diffusion through the center lens is totally different than the lenses on either side of it?

When I did my tail light mod I lined the center housing with chrome tape and added a rear curved reflector to emulate parabolic reflectors of the adjacent lenses. I also replaced the stepped diffuser with a combination of fluorescent light diffuser and square pattern tail light repair kit to emulate diffuser pattern of the adjacent lenses:

TailLights4.jpg TailLights5.jpg

TaillightModCenterDefuser.jpg

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DeepSpace Cowboy]

Thank You for your input. This mod would definately make the light sequencer look 100% better. From your pictures it looks like a relatively easy fix.

[content22207_2]

My mod is a little bit different in that it illuminates all three lenses at the same time, which really emphasizes differences between them. Perhaps in sequence it wouldn't be as noticeable. Has anybody tried it to see?

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DeepSpace Cowboy]

Here's a grainy picture of my test setup for the amp load test for the LED portion of the test. It's a mess but it works!Attachment 44182

[content22207_2]

You really need to try it in the housings.

My experience was Position 3 didn't look anything like Positions 2 and 4.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DeepSpace Cowboy]

You really need to try it in the housings.

My experience was Position 3 didn't look anything like Positions 2 and 4.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Where is the best place to buy a used housing. I would like to get one to experiment with and come up with the best solution. Thanks DS