Exhaust Gaskets partialy blocking ports?

[DMC5180]

I guess I should patented that concept when I made mine 22 years ago



Dennis

[nkemp]

Check again. The exhaust manifold does in fact bolt directly to the head and not the block.

I stand corrected.

[DMCMW Dave]

This may seem rather obvious, but you can cut the drill bit shorter.

This is very do-able. If we had to take the head off every time we deal with a broken stud, we'd be in a lot of trouble!

[DMC5180]

This is what I used 22 years ago. I bought the 90 drill just for the job.

1/8 drill bit initial pilot hole ( not shown )

5/32 LH (optional) drill for extractor

# 2 extractor

# 3 extractor (backup)

And my homemade drill jig posted previously







Dennis

[nkemp]

This may seem rather obvious, but you can cut the drill bit shorter.

Dave, there you go again ... making things easier. I almost cut it shorter but it is shorter now

I blocked the car up a bit more and that has increased access. Increased access makes it an easier access which should help. Working at arms length just wasn't cutting it. A lift sure would be nice! Maybe I should put one on my gifster.com list.

[nkemp]

This is what I used 22 years ago. I bought the 90 drill just for the job. ...

Same basic thing I tried. Found a brand new 90 air drill on CL for $15 a few miles down the the road and it seems to work great (it may not last in a shop but for me it will last a lifetime). When I broke the 1/8 LH bit I tried a 1/8 RH bit. Since it did not seem to make a dent, I backed off for a while to investigate more. Besides, I need to fix the guide ( I found the .62" steel plate while bicycling one day a while back. You never know when you'll need such a piece. And that explains all the junk in my garage!). I think it is pretty soft steel.

[DMC5180]

Mine is mild steel (soft) , if I needed this for continued use. I would install hardened drill bushings in the pilot locations.


Dennis

[nkemp]

I was thinking of bushings as well. Thread them in and then change them as the bit size increases. Three, maybe four different bushing sizes. Then instead of that heavy chunk of steel (mine has some heft to it):
- Machine out the excess steel to reduce weight
or
- Use aluminum plate. Weld additional plate where the bushings would go.

I think if we tried, we could make it to service the top or bottom studs depending on how it is installed

A Include a 7mm stud remover/installer and we could make a traveling kit. The user supplies their own bits.

[DMC5180]

3/8 or 1/2 aluminum bar stock would be perfect with drill bushing.

No need for extra thickness, since the plate needs to be reversible for opposite orientation stud pattern.


Dennis

[David T]

3/8 or 1/2 aluminum bar stock would be perfect with drill bushing.

No need for extra thickness, since the plate needs to be reversible for opposite orientation stud pattern.


Dennis

I suggested removing the head as an alternative to removing the whole motor! I have been able to remove broken studs without removing the head (or motor) but if you mess things up beyond the limits of your abilities you can drag the head to a machine shop where they can finish the job. A drill guide is an excellent idea but if access if a problem that may only add to it and it prevents you from observing what you are doing. Because of the angles and difficulty it will help you stay centered on the broken stud. Especially if you do not have a lot of experience doing this kind of work. Patience is the key here. Work slowly and stop frequently to check and recheck that you are centered on the stud. The stud is steel and it is in soft aluminum, once you get off the stud you will quickly ruin the head.