Cold Start Valve fires when hot.

[David T]

If the CSV runs hot AND cold either the TTS is bad or there is a problem with the wiring. Refer to D:01:09, 10. It is a very simple circuit. Above 35 degrees the TTS breaks the ground connection for the CSV so it can't run. If the wires were EVER reversed to the TTS it is now damaged and must be replaced.

[content22207_2]

According to the largely error free Workshop Manual (Page D:01:10) there should be no connection whatsoever between Blue/Black and the body of the pump when coolant is warm, or when extended cranking has warmed up the TTS.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DMC5180]

A Friend of mine had a CSV Hot wired (bypassing the TTS) to fire all the time. by one of his Cars PO's or mechanic. (likely was a work around for a bad accumulator) Once the Accumulator was replaced the car was very hard to start HOT due to Flooding.

A simple test: Unplug the TTS and the CSV also verify that NOTHING is plugged into the WHITE RELAY SOCKET (unused Hot Start relay) located in the BACK of the relay/fusebox area.

Do a simple (beep) Audible continuity test between the terminal pin for the BLUE/black wire using either the TTS plug, Blue CSV connector or the White (EMPTY) hot start relay socket to GROUND (any black wire or the engine itself) there should be NO audible beep and ZERO continuity. If you DO have continuity start looking for tampering or pinched wiring in the engine bay harness. In my friends case a small ground wire was (HIDDEN) spliced into the BLUE/ Black wire near the ISM and grounded to the engine with the other ground wires on the front of the LH intake Rail.

If you do the above test and you have NO continuity, then the likely culprit is the TTS.

GOOD LUCK

[spikeygg]

According to the largely error free Workshop Manual (Page D:01:10) there should be no connection whatsoever between Blue/Black and the body of the pump when coolant is warm, or when extended cranking has warmed up the TTS.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Thanks guys, I just started her up after a little cranking. I waited until warm then shut down the engine and took measurements at the TTS terminals. Here they are:

Cold Engine:

• Top pin (Blue/Yellow) was 30Ω
• Bottom pin (Blue/Black) was 0Ω

Hot Engine:

• Top pin (Blue/Yellow) was 60Ω
• Bottom pin (Blue/Black) was 120Ω

I guess the TTS in my engine is good.

[dmcnc]

A Friend of mine had a CSV Hot wired (bypassing the TTS) to fire all the time. by one of his Cars PO's or mechanic. (likely was a work around for a bad accumulator) Once the Accumulator was replaced the car was very hard to start HOT due to Flooding.

A simple test: Unplug the TTS and the CSV also verify that NOTHING is plugged into the WHITE RELAY SOCKET (unused Hot Start relay) located in the BACK of the relay/fusebox area.

Do a simple (beep) Audible continuity test between the terminal pin for the BLUE/black wire using either the TTS plug, Blue CSV connector or the White (EMPTY) hot start relay socket to GROUND (any black wire or the engine itself) there should be NO audible beep and ZERO continuity. If you DO have continuity start looking for tampering or pinched wiring in the engine bay harness. In my friends case a small ground wire was (HIDDEN) spliced into the BLUE/ Black wire near the ISM and grounded to the engine with the other ground wires on the front of the LH intake Rail.

If you do the above test and you have NO continuity, then the likely culprit is the TTS.

GOOD LUCK

I got continuity on the terminal pin for the BLUE/black wire using either the TTS plug, Blue CSV connector and the White (EMPTY) hot start relay socket!

[content22207_2]

That's normal: Blue/Black is tied into the hot start relay socket:

FuelPumpCircuit.JPG

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207_2]

Hot Engine:

• Bottom pin (Blue/Black) was 120Ω

I guess the TTS in my engine is good.

You should not be showing any ground continuity whatsoever on Blue/Black when warm.

I'm guessing your TTS is bad.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[dmcnc]

Found this non-standard ground linked to the CSV plug!
Screen Shot 2016-07-03 at 11.49.40 PM.jpg

Once disconnected, car started flawlessly under hot conditions!!! (CSV and TTS plugged back in).

You freaking rock Dennis! Thanks everyone for helping out!

-Rafael

[DMC5180]

Found this non-standard ground linked to the CSV plug!
Screen Shot 2016-07-03 at 11.49.40 PM.jpg

Once disconnected, car started flawlessly under hot conditions!!! (CSV and TTS plugged back in).

You freaking rock Dennis! Thanks everyone for helping out!

-Rafael

Rafael,

The tell tale in picture is the Yellow NON-OEM ring terminal. It's out of place with the other non-insulated factory terminals. Make sure you unwrap the harness and remove where it is spliced into the BLUE/black wire and re-wrap the harness.

My friends car was the exact same configuration. He is the 4th owner of his car and it was like that when he bought the car.


NOTE to MODERATORS this would be a good thread to move into the FAQ thread.

[David T]

Rafael,

The tell tale in picture is the Yellow NON-OEM ring terminal. It's out of place with the other non-insulated factory terminals. Make sure you unwrap the harness and remove where it is spliced into the BLUE/black wire and re-wrap the harness.

My friends car was the exact same configuration. He is the 4th owner of his car and it was like that when he bought the car.


NOTE to MODERATORS this would be a good thread to move into the FAQ thread.

As a general note, an experienced tech would do a visual check in the area of the suspected problem and would have noticed any non-standard wiring and questioned it. Often a tech who doesn't understand how the systems are supposed to work will do odd things to make a car run. Some of the most "creative" wiring mods are found in the fuel pump circuit. When first looking at a car that has a problem one of the easiest things to notice is any wiring modifications and if any are found they are suspect. For the most part they were done as a work-around to the original problem and now are a problem themselves. Also often they are not done very well either. A big example is when you find a burglar alarm, often it looks like the tech "knitted" it into the car with a MILE of wire! It can take the better part of a day to dissect it out! At least you found it and now the car is running as it should. That ground wire should be completely removed so no one will find it and think it should be connected again!