Starting problem after replacing fuel lines

[Stainless]

After all the recent fire scares, I decided to replace my original fuel lines. While it was more time consuming than I anticipated, and after I fixed all the leaks, I was surprised that the car struggled to start. When I first started it after replacing the lines, it ran extremely rough for about a minute, then it smoothed right out and I thought everything was going to be fine and dandy. Not so.

I don't drive my car much, but prior to replacing the lines, it would fire up right away with zero problems. I replaced the thermotime sensor a couple of years back to fix a cold start issue I was having when it was winter time. Until now, that is the only starting problem I've ever had. Now when I go to start it, it fires up right away, just like it used to, but doesn't stay running. It dies after 1 second, even if I give it gas. It will then crank and crank and crank and crank until the battery starts to die.

Today I hooked hooked the DeLorean up to my Corolla to give it more juice so the battery wouldn't die and I got the DeLorean started. It acted like it was going to fire right up, but then died. Then it cranked and cranked and cranked and it finally fired up again, but ran really rough. I could only keep it going by giving it a lot of gas. After about it minute, I let it idle and it didn't die, but didn't run very smooth. After another minute or so, it started to idle out nice and smooth. I drove it for about an hour tonight and it ran flawlessly. I took some neighbor kid for a drive and it felt like everything was normal. It ran like a top.

After coming home, I shut it off, and then tried starting it again. It fired up great and ran smooth right away. Of all the threads I've read about replacing fuel lines, I've never come across the new lines creating a starting issue. All the lines look fine except the one going to the cold start valve. It's kind of twisted. I felt like that was the only option I had to get it to line up correctly. I don't know if that line is kinked, causing the starting problem, or if I did something else wrong. Any help is appreciated.
2016-07-02 16.24.55.jpg

[Bitsyncmaster]

You probably knocked a vacuum line off somewhere. Also check that connector on the timing advance solenoid.

[jmettee]

Or you have a couple lines swapped. Post a pic of the right side of your fuel distributor & the frequency valve (all in 1 pic so we can verify the routing)

[Jonathan]

+1 on a routing mistake. Double check that the ignition wires are correct as well as the fuel and vacuum lines.

[OverlandMan]

Agree with others already posted. Vacuum line off or incorrectly routed and/or fuel line incorrectly routed. Sounds like something on the open-loop side of the system, when the car is cold. Maybe start there (CPR, WUR, FV... that stuff). Also make sure the return lines are ordered correctly where they connect to the fuel dist. I've heard if this is incorrect it will cause problems. This is the 17mm bolt (I think) where the 2 connections stack on top of each other.

See my pic below. The outside loop goes to the FV while the inside goes to the metal return line (back to the tank) under the ignition coil and bulkhead.

FuelSystem_2015_03XX.jpg

[Stainless]

I'll see if I can snap some better pictures tonight. I'd be surprised if I got a line in the wrong place as I replaced only one line at a time, but it's possible. Here's the only pic I could find on my camera that has a different angle. Let me know if you see anything unusual. More to come.
2016-05-16 21.58.57.jpg

[StanMan PushN 88]

Agree with others already posted. Vacuum line off or incorrectly routed and/or fuel line incorrectly routed. Sounds like something on the open-loop side of the system, when the car is cold. Maybe start there (CPR, WUR, FV... that stuff). Also make sure the return lines are ordered correctly where they connect to the fuel dist. I've heard if this is incorrect it will cause problems. This is the 17mm bolt (I think) where the 2 connections stack on top of each other.

See my pic below. The outside loop goes to the FV while the inside goes to the metal return line (back to the tank) under the ignition coil and bulkhead.

FuelSystem_2015_03XX.jpg

Questions:
Great shot of your fuel lines OverlandMan! For some of us considering swapping out, what are the acronyms CPR, WUR, FV? Also, where did you get the fuel lines, are you happy with them? Other suggestions? (I've still got rubber lines but I think previous owner replaced in 2012).

StanPushN88

[davidc89]

Questions:
Great shot of your fuel lines OverlandMan! For some of us considering swapping out, what are the acronyms CPR, WUR, FV? Also, where did you get the fuel lines, are you happy with them? Other suggestions? (I've still got rubber lines but I think previous owner replaced in 2012).

StanPushN88

WUR - Warm up regulator
FV - Frequency Valve
CPR - Control pressure regulator

[Stainless]

Here are some pics at different angles. I can't see anything that appears to be wrong, so please point out anything that may be suspect.
2016-07-12 20.48.10.jpg

2016-07-12 20.48.27.jpg

2016-07-12 20.49.15.jpg

2016-07-12 20.52.03.jpg

2016-07-12 20.52.34.jpg

[OverlandMan]

Questions:
Great shot of your fuel lines OverlandMan! For some of us considering swapping out, what are the acronyms CPR, WUR, FV? Also, where did you get the fuel lines, are you happy with them? Other suggestions? (I've still got rubber lines but I think previous owner replaced in 2012).

StanPushN88

Got these fuel lines from DPI. Josh also swapped out my banjo bolts for refurbs and I sent him my cores. I've replaced everything in my fuel system except the FV and some of the lambda components. It's been quite the journey. I'm pleased with the quality all around.

Here are some pics at different angles. I can't see anything that appears to be wrong, so please point out anything that may be suspect.

I don't see anything obvious. Can you confirm the WUR's big bolt goes to the top of the fuel dist? I can't tell from your pics.