Location: Charleston wv
Posts: 36
My VIN: 10091
Club(s): (DCH)
I just replaced my fuel lines today and am having the same problem -- car won't start, but was fine prior to replacing lines. I pulled out injectors and no fuel is spraying. My fuel lines also came from DPI. As the original poster here, I also replaced one fuel line at a time carefully to make sure everything was put in the proper place. Was there any resolution to the original post? Any thoughts as to what could be the problem? I was planning to attend convention this coming weekend, but that may not be possible. Any help would be appreciated.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Still no resolution from me, the OP. This weekend, I put the original line back on that goes to the cold start valve to see if my problem was due to that one line that was kind of twisted. The problem didn't miraculously go away. My thought is that my problem is still somehow related to the cold start valve as it will run fine once it's all warmed up after finally starting. It still cranks and cranks, but if I crank it for a bit, leave for a few minutes, come back and crank it a few more times, it will start up, even though it still runs rough for the first little bit.
To me, the cause should be limited to what was changed, with the assumption being that nothing else was disturbed. It's still a head scratcher for me.
Jared L.
June '81, manual, black inter. VIN 2087
Other cars: 2012 Toyota Sienna, 2007 Mazda 6, 1999 Jeep Cherokee
DeLorean blog: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/
Posts: 4,807
My VIN: 3937
Agreed on it sounding like a problem related to the CSV.
Sticking it one area then, I would check and recheck the electrical connection on top of the CSV. Clean for corrosion if present, confirm the male spaded end tabs are fitting snuggly in the female end of the connection. Sometimes those widen up and aren't grabbing on very well. Carefully pinch them closer together with a small screwdriver or pair of pliers if you find them that way. Inspect the length of the wiring for the CSV as much as you can for any obvious damage or problems. Confirm the bulkhead connection for the CSV is ok, it is #47 in the white connector and is a BLUE/BLACK wire. Also inspect the two vacuum connections on the base of the CSV. One loops around to the top of the oil filler and the other, longer one, goes to the charcoal canister. I'm not sure even if one of those vacuum hoses was a problem whether it would do what you're seeing though.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,578
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Easier than all that, take the CSV off and stick it in a container. Try starting the car when cold and see if it sprays. If it doesn't, figure out why. Make sure fuel is coming through the hose to the valve and see if it gets electric when cranking. Unusual but it is possible the valve is bad or plugged up with dirt.
David Teitelbaum
"...once it's all warmed up" is one problem and "..after finally starting...", probably another. The CSV shouldn't have anything to do with it running ruff, not for minutes anyway. When one is getting good spark etc, I like using starting fluid on a cold start problem because it eliminates the need for the CSV (and can help clear a fowled plug/cylinder...). IMO, do first things first, and here, that's getting it to start consistently. If the fluid makes it start consistently, check the CSV as David Et al. suggested. If it's OK, the fluid may be compensating for a vacuum leak (especially when cold)...use it on potential leak areas (short shots) while the engine is running to find leaks (listen for change in engine speed, but avoid metering plate area [bad distributor/wires may ignite so be careful!]). Blocking off the main vacuum tap, as previously suggested, will eliminate a lot....
Otherwise, maybe check (but DO NOT change) the dwell=>buzzing Frequency Valve...IAC
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Pull the blue plug off the CSV one of the terminals is probably pushed out of the shell.
Sent from phone
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Charleston wv
Posts: 36
My VIN: 10091
Club(s): (DCH)
Problem solved, got my car running again. Spent two hours today pulling out new lines and replaced with the old existing ones. I don't know why, but it likes the old ones. After a couple of cranks it fired up and it seems to be running fine. I want to thank all of you for your input, hope to see all at the show this weekend.