Martiq, when the transmission slipped, did it feel like you had some traction like an unintended downshift to 2nd, or did it feel like you entered neutral?
Also, +1 on Elvis' comment about getting stuck in a higher gear probably being a governor problem (bad capacitors causing noisy transmission signal?) Does getting stuck also only happen when the transmission is warm?
The slipping definitely don't feel like a unintended downshift but i see your point, and had the thought myself to begin with, and thats why I started to check the govenor with test ligtht in the first place. It's "just" a slip in 3rd gear, and easing the trottle on and off still makes the transmission pull the car, and clearly let you feel that you are still in 3rd gear.
Agreed that the "getting stuck" or hesitation to downshift might be a secondary problem related to the gevenor...But to answer the guestion - Yes it also only happens when warm
After setting for so long, the sealing in the clutches has probably been lost because of scoring, rust, etc. If it was started dry the seals may have broken. There is a possibility that the sealing could recover, if not broken, but more than likely the slipping will get worse and eventually no 3rd gear. It very unlikely also that the governor has anything to do with your 3rd gear issue. After all, you pulled the fuse and had the same issue.
A rebuild is the best option it would appear to me. The rebuilding is pretty straight forward. The measurements and clearance adjustments are the things where I hear of the most struggle. I had a guy in NJ rebuild a trans for me. Worked great for about 40,000 miles then it started slipping. Symptoms very similar to yours. I just replaced the trans the second time. Rob Grady had a new trans available to mount to my final drive. Nice after that!
The car drove flawless the last months and under the few test drives over the past year while I was bringing the car back to life. The fault occured within the last 3 weeks.
I have made up my mind - after checking the solenoids (I'll do that first) - the transmission is coming off and taken apart for further investigation and rebuild.
I'm pretty confident in taking it apart and do a rebuild, and yes I also have my attention to measurements and clearance adjustments as being the most difficult.
I've already bought an old Renault 4141 repair-manual as extra reference
I did get a comment from another owner on Facebook. He had the EXACT same problem a few years ago (I was like he was describing my problem). He had a crack in the clutch drum which caused pressure loss and slippage. He linked me to a picture (attached) Makes awful lot of sence, as the crack likely would expand and open up when the transmission is warm. A failure like that will ofcourse be "worst case". I might also be anoter seal or what have we, that could be affected by temperature in degree of leaking. Anyway I'm going in..
If you decide to do your own rebuild there are a few things to consider. You need to buy, rent, or borrow the special tools. You need to buy the seals, clutch plates and steels. If one of the clutch housings is broken you will need to obtain one. You will discover parts are difficult to find. The clutch housing for C-1 is prone to breakage but it doesn't split, the spot welds tear and you won't get any drive at all when that happens. On 1 rebuild I did a spit ring cracked on assembly causing the transmission to slip because of low pressure so maybe that is what happened to you but if the transmission hasn't been taken apart recently I doubt it but who knows? Bottom line, one of the clutch packs is slipping either because of low pressure or worn friction plates. Before you take it out try driving without the filter.
On which pins do I connect power (positive and negative) to properly test the solenoids - Just to be sure not frying anything. I suppose I would hear them click?
I measure 25,6 - 25,7 Ohms across the wires to each solenoid
Are they supposed to be open or closed when energized, and do they work differently, hence the one with clear wires is supposed to sit in the outer position in the valvebody and must not interchanged?
On which pins do I connect power (positive and negative) to properly test the solenoids - Just to be sure not frying anything. I suppose I would hear them click?
I measure 25,6 - 25,7 Ohms across the wires to each solenoid
Are they supposed to be open or closed when energized, and do they work differently, hence the one with clear wires is supposed to sit in the outer position in the valvebody and must not interchanged?
NEVER MIND ;-) I figured it out :-) The solenoids are tatally quiet when operating, so you need to pressure test them to check. Watch my video. They both operate fine :-)
I didn't think it was the solenoids causing the slipping. If you weren't getting into one of the gears then they could have been a problem. When you put them back in, put the pan on WITHOUT the filter and see if it still slips. If it does, it is a mechanical problem inside the transmission. When you put the solenoids back make sure you do not mix them up. Refer to G:06:02 Notice in 1st column 1/2 way down.
I checked them just to be 100% sure. I'm aware of the correct place for each solenoid ;-)
I' have noticed the suggestion about trying without the filter installed. Just for me to understand: What exactly will that prove that has not already been proven with the connected pressure gauge. I measured 8 bar at 2500 rpm in 3rd gear and hot transmission.
...
Also, +1 on Elvis' comment about getting stuck in a higher gear probably being a governor problem (bad capacitors causing noisy transmission signal?) Does getting stuck also only happen when the transmission is warm?
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number one problem especially with heat - are the bad solder joints, they break due to heat and vibrations
I checked them just to be 100% sure. I'm aware of the correct place for each solenoid ;-)
I' have noticed the suggestion about trying without the filter installed. Just for me to understand: What exactly will that prove that has not already been proven with the connected pressure gauge. I measured 8 bar at 2500 rpm in 3rd gear and hot transmission.
regards
The pressure gauge may not react fast enough for you to see a quick dip in pressure. The filter may be blocked or if you don't have enough fluid you might be getting air. If it doesn't slip when you try it without the filter at least you aren't slipping any more and I would then cut the filter open to see what is inside. There is no way to see if the filter is dirty unless you cut it open.
Originally Posted by axh174
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