CA Smog Emissions Fail

[bytes311]

Thank you all. Your comments have been extremely helpful! I've got a new cap + rotor, spark plug wire set and air filter on order from DMCH to replace the original ones.

I own the same dwell meter as the one linked above in the YouTube video, and the needle swings between the same numbers on mine. I've double-checked all of the reachable vacuum lines and they all appear to be good. If I disconnect the one vac line behind the distributor and rev the engine, it sucks in air. The only component that is not working properly is the Warm-Up Regulator. The heater element is broken, so I wait a few minutes before driving on a cold engine.

I'm not sure how to check the ignition timing (is that with a timing light?) but somebody said it appears to be within spec?

[DMCVegas]

You can't trust appearances. You've got to take your own measurements.

There are plenty of YouTube videos that can show you how to measure timing on your engine with a timing light. Adjusting the ignition is easy enough. It *is* a bit more difficult given the location of the distributor, but it is not impossible. It's even more easy if you just use the correct tool:



Start with checking/adjusting the ignition, and we'll continue from there.

[David T]

If the car is running well and it passed Smog in the past, chances are the timing is just fine. It doesn't change by itself. Of course it can't hurt to check it. While you are checking it you should also check the vacuum and mechanical advance. Before checking you should verify the timing marks.

[bytes311]

Installed a brand new cap, rotor, air filter, and spark plug wire set. I had to remove the mixture unit TWICE because of that dreaded 'pipe of agony' pulling out the o-ring. Also, there may have been a vacuum leak at the W-pipe because one of the white plastic o-rings appeared disfigured.

After assembly, I checked duty cycle with a dwell meter and realized my FV wasn't buzzing like before. I adjusted the mixture, which corrected the problem with the FV. Right now I'm running a can of Techron through the engine (via fuel tank). I have a couple gallons left before I fill it back up with fresh gas.

[bytes311]

After driving around last night, I noticed a ticking sound coming off the back of the engine around cyl 4/distributor cap. The ticking itself is random, with a noticeable change in engine sound for that brief moment. I haven't tried re-seating the plugs, but I'd hate to have to tear down the engine again to inspect the cap. Does this sound like a spark issue? Defective cap/rotor/ignition wires?

[DMCVegas]

You shouldn't have to tear down anything. It is quite simple enough to replace the cap & rotor without ever having to disassemble anything. I've replaced my own cap & rotor, and even re-seated the Auxiliary Air Pipe all by feel.

If the distributor is buttoned down properly, it shouldn't be a problem. Just from a description, it's hard to tell what the sound could be. More importantly however, what are you emissions looking like now?

[bytes311]

You shouldn't have to tear down anything. It is quite simple enough to replace the cap & rotor without ever having to disassemble anything. I've replaced my own cap & rotor, and even re-seated the Auxiliary Air Pipe all by feel.

If the distributor is buttoned down properly, it shouldn't be a problem. Just from a description, it's hard to tell what the sound could be. More importantly however, what are you emissions looking like now?

I plan on taking it in this weekend. I'm hoping that it will test better this time around, especially after correcting a vacuum leak at the W-pipe.

The ticking noise is sporadic and sounds electrical behind the engine near the dist cap. It's mostly noticeable when idle.

[DMCVegas]

Again, very hard to tell what the sound is without being there. Now if you're ever unsure if you have voltage leaks on your ignition system, what you can do is pop the engine cover and run the car in the dark and look for flashes/sparks.

WARNING: Do NOT attempt to close your garage door to simulate the darkness. Always perform engine tests in a well ventilated area!

Also, if you slap the throttle to jump the RPMs, how does it sound settling back in? Does the engine idle quickly settle in, or does it rev up and down by itself?

[bytes311]

Again, very hard to tell what the sound is without being there. Now if you're ever unsure if you have voltage leaks on your ignition system, what you can do is pop the engine cover and run the car in the dark and look for flashes/sparks.

WARNING: Do NOT attempt to close your garage door to simulate the darkness. Always perform engine tests in a well ventilated area!

Also, if you slap the throttle to jump the RPMs, how does it sound settling back in? Does the engine idle quickly settle in, or does it rev up and down by itself?

I'll inspect the engine for flashes tonight after dark. When I rev up the engine and let it go, it settles down quickly. It doesn't surge or rev up and down on its own.

[David T]

Again, very hard to tell what the sound is without being there. Now if you're ever unsure if you have voltage leaks on your ignition system, what you can do is pop the engine cover and run the car in the dark and look for flashes/sparks.

WARNING: Do NOT attempt to close your garage door to simulate the darkness. Always perform engine tests in a well ventilated area!

Also, if you slap the throttle to jump the RPMs, how does it sound settling back in? Does the engine idle quickly settle in, or does it rev up and down by itself?

Another tip, while looking for sparks in the dark around a running motor, keep BOTH hands in your pockets. A ticking noise around the distributor means either you did not seat the cap or rotor properly or you did not seat all of the spark plug wires completely into the cap. Or you may have damaged a spark plug wire near the distributor and it is sparking. That ticking noise will result in a cylinder misfire and that will fail you in an emissions test.