Page 65 of 66 FirstFirst ... 15 55 63 64 65 66 LastLast
Results 641 to 650 of 654

Thread: 3.0L engine swap

  1. #641
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    2,261

    My VIN:    01049

    Wow, what a nightmare. Glad to see you powering through it!
    -Mike
    1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
    1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  2. #642
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,581

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    I decided to give everyone a better view of what I had to do to the radiator brackets by taking some photos of the passenger-side bracket as I was modifying it. I hope these will be useful.

    modified RH bracket 1.jpg

    modified RH bracket 2.jpg

    Just a few minutes' work with a hacksaw and a file.

    With the brackets suitably modified and installed, it was time to test fit the radiator and duct. I removed the fan/shroud assembly from the radiator (see below) and sat it onto the lower radiator brackets, then inserted the bushings, washers, and bolts. Pretty easy job. The new brackets fit the new radiator just fine.

    I was able to test fit the radiator duct, which means that my theory about the old radiator brackets was correct: the bent brackets prevented the radiator from sitting in a place which allowed the installation of the duct. This is probably why there was no duct installed when I bought the car in 2007.

    There is a problem with the radiator duct and the aftermarket radiator: the duct is offset, relative to the radiator, slightly toward the driver's side. This means that there is a gap on the passenger's side, and material needs to be removed on the driver's side in order to accommodate the lower corner of the radiator. This will be dealt with prior to final installation. Apart from that, the fit is fine.

    After installing the radiator duct, I installed the upper radiator brackets (using hex nuts with captive spring washers to make life easier) and looked at where they meet the crumple extension. Unsurprisingly, they don't come down where the old brackets were welded on. Surprisingly, they seem to be sitting forward of where the weld nuts are sitting on the inside -- or maybe I just can't get a good idea of where they are when looking in with my flashlight.

    I marked through the hole in the upper brackets where they meet the frame. Tomorrow I will drill holes in preparation for installing rivnuts. If I can source rivnuts and a rivnut tool locally, I'll get back to work tomorrow. If I can't, I'll have to order one and wait.

    Here's a question for the experts: I was unable to slip the radiator through the gap between the front spoiler and the lower brackets until I removed the fans/shroud. I wonder how I am going to manage installing it with the fan shroud on the back and the condenser on the front. It would be easier with the front spoiler removed, but do I really want to open that can of worms? Already two of the studs on the driver's side of the front spoiler have let go, quite some time ago, and I'm afraid to touch any of the rest. But there doesn't seem to be a way of getting the whole assembly installed, unless I install the lower brackets to the radiator/fan/condenser assembly and support it with a block of wood (which is all I have on hand) while I attach the radiator brackets to the crumple extension. If anyone knows the trick to removing the assembly as a unit without removing the front spoiler, I'd appreciate it if you'd share it with me.

    This is exhausting (especially the fiddly-as-hell radiator duct) but exciting. Thanks to everyone for your help and encouragement!
    DeLorean status: Replacing radiator and condenser.

  3. #643
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,581

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    By the way -- just *HOW MUCH* metal was welded on by a previous owner? Here's a photo I got with my phone earlier today. Passenger side. Looks like they used 12 gauge steel.

    extra metal.jpg

    Um. The picture shows up properly orientated on my phone. Not sure why it's sideways here. Maybe an admin can fix it. Anyway, there it is.
    Last edited by Farrar; 02-10-2019 at 11:12 PM.
    DeLorean status: Replacing radiator and condenser.

  4. #644
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    1,966

    My VIN:    4877

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    That doesnt look healthy...lol
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

  5. #645
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,832

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Fixed



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #646
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,581

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Thanks, Dennis!
    DeLorean status: Replacing radiator and condenser.

  7. #647
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,832

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Thanks, Dennis!
    Before posting go to your photos and confirm orientation. If not correct, Tap edit > then tap the rotate icon as needed > save. Now it will upload correctly when chosen.

    You can edit your post by deleting and reposting the image corrected if with in 30 minutes of the original posting.

    When taking photos always hold phone near vertical if possible. Camera in top left corner for Landscape. Top right for portrait.

    Itís an Iphone thing




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  8. #648
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    1,693

    My VIN:    5003

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Yep, I attempted to do the same thing when my first frame's front extension was a mess of rust - weld plates over it and hope for the best. For me though, it did not work out so well. Good to see you're making your way through it, seems nothing can ever be easy!
    -----Dan B.

  9. #649
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,581

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    test fit pics

    I was too tired to get any photos of the radiator test fitted yesterday, so here is one from each side. The radiator duct has been removed already because it requires "clearancing" before final installation.

    radiator test fit 1.jpg

    radiator test fit 2.jpg

    The aluminum radiator is lighter than the fans & stainless steel shroud assembly that I removed from it (DPI ships the entire assembly as a unit) so it was easy to lift up and install. Then I installed the upper brackets.

    At least one person has mentioned to me that I would be better off installing the radiator, condenser, and fans/shroud as a single unit. However, I can't see any way of doing that with the lower brackets installed. Is the idea to attach the shroud and condenser, attach the lower brackets to the radiator, and then push the entire assembly up into place, having it supported from below by other means while attaching the lower brackets to the frame? It was easy for me to position my block of wood underneath the old radiator while it was sitting in the car, but I imagine it is going to be a lot trickier to try to hold the new assembly up while positioning the wood underneath. I may need to enlist my wife's help for that. Or if anyone else knows of a one-person method of installing everything together, please kindly let me know.
    DeLorean status: Replacing radiator and condenser.

  10. #650
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111

    Posts:    786

    My VIN:    2691

    Slide a floor jack with a 2+4 to push radiator up and hold position...

Page 65 of 66 FirstFirst ... 15 55 63 64 65 66 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •