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Thread: 3.0L engine swap

  1. #411
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Location:  Plantation, FL

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    Pulling plug #3 has almost no effect on how the engine runs. Hmm!

    In other news, twiddling the idle air screws on the carburetor has much more effect on the driver side (cylinders 4-6) than on the passenger side (1-3). I can back the idle air screw out *WAY* more on 1-3 before the idle starts to get worse.

    Also, I managed to burn 1/4 tank of gas on a ~50-mile drive.

    Methinks I may have a vacuum leak ...
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  2. #412
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Look at plug 3 and compare it to some others easy to get to.

    Time to buy a cigar?

  3. #413
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    Time to buy a cigar?
    ... And some rubber plugs to stop up the holes on the intake manifold once the carburetor is removed. The last time I did this kind of test I just used a ton of tape. This time I'd rather do something that takes less time to do and undo. Two small-ish rubber plugs should do it. I'll drill a hole in one of them to stick a length of hose into, to blow the smoke through.

    The question is how to get rid of the cigar smell before the wife comes home. ;-)
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  4. #414
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    It's hot.

    Haven't had time to do the smoke test yet. I've been forced to put #2613 into service. As badly as it runs, it does run reliably.

    Driving in the 100-degree sun here in south Florida, the temperature hovered around 260F and crept a little higher even at 70 MPH, and I wasn't running the air conditioning. (A/C compressor bearings sound like they're about to fail -- I had to get to and from work with an intact serpentine belt so I didn't want to risk running and seizing the compressor.) Turning on the heat didn't help.

    The 2.8L used to run around 220F once fully warmed up. Maybe the new engine is hotter because it's higher compression...?

    Possibly irrelevant information: Radiator cap for the Eagle Premier is 18 PSI. I'm still running a 16 PSI cap. I doubt running an 18 PSI cap would change anything except the temperature at which the system blows out.

    Coolant looks pretty clean, but I will change it again. Meanwhile, in addition to a new A/C compressor I will start saving my money for a new fan shroud and lower duct. #2613's fan shroud is partly missing and the duct was gone before I bought the car in 2007.

    260F may not be bad for the engine, but the alternator doesn't seem work as well that hot. Gauge read nearly 14V at 220F, and dropped to barely 13V by 260F. I bet the A/C would be happier at 220F, also. I need to do something to keep this engine cool. If the new shroud and duct don't do it, then I may have to investigate the import radiator. In the meantime, I am open to other suggestions. Would a vacuum leak cause hotter running?
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  5. #415
    Matt Drive Stainless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    In the meantime, I am open to other suggestions.
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  6. #416
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Maybe the temp sensor is somehow bad and there is nothing actually wrong. If this has been visited before then my apologies, I tried to read back a little but 40+ pages I didn't get too far - if you haven't replaced it maybe you can try that and see what happens.
    -----Dan B.

  7. #417
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    Maybe the temp sensor is somehow bad and there is nothing actually wrong. If this has been visited before then my apologies, I tried to read back a little but 40+ pages I didn't get too far - if you haven't replaced it maybe you can try that and see what happens.
    Thanks. The temperature gauge on the dashboard is wildly inaccurate, so an additional sensor and gauge have been temporarily installed and are working properly.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  8. #418
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Since you're close, you might ask James (eagle-co94) if he has a used lower duct that you can get on the car and test sooner than later. I don't recall what the boiling point of antifreeze is but I'd imagine by 260 you're close. The duct may help and at this point the radiator would be suspect since you ruled everything else out. I know, your car, but if this was me, I'd try to disconnect the lines at the radiator and try flushing it with a hose both reverse and regular, maybe more gunk will come out.
    Last edited by dn010; 08-21-2018 at 04:32 PM.
    -----Dan B.

  9. #419
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    "coolant"

    When I checked the color of the fluid in the expansion tank, it looked OK. However, this is what came out when I drained from the lower radiator hose just now.

    IMG_0286.jpg

    Looks like my theory proved correct that previous flushing hadn't cleared all of the contaminants from the system.

    So, Matt -- how much liquid Cascade detergent should I use?
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  10. #420
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    So, Matt -- how much liquid Cascade detergent should I use?
    The answer is "probably not the whole bottle."

    I watched the temperature gauge climb to 220F very quickly. Then I heard what sounded like a "click" from the front of the car, and next thing I knew the entire front of the car and most of the garage floor was covered in hot, dirty liquid. Maybe the "click" was a hose clamp breaking? Anyway, the cooling fans came on and I shut the engine off. Now the garage floor is covered with towels. It will be a while before I can trace the source of the leak, but it wasn't from my new drain valve, nor was it from any of the clamps by the lower radiator hose or the heater core.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

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