3.0L engine swap

[Farrar]

If you run it with the expansion tank cap removed, do you see coolant/water flowing in from the small hose?

Yes.

The water pump is only a few months old, so I don't suspect it has failed.

Moving forward: I guess the only way I will be able to properly drain and flush the system is to remove the drain plugs in the engine. I was really hoping I wouldn't have to do that. Removing them shouldn't be a problem (Bill flushed the engine before installing it), but getting them to seal properly when re-installing is another matter.

[SamHill]

I'm no Mr. Fix it but why are you not replacing the radiator? Sounds like it is clogged with rust crud. Is it the stock radiator? Within a few thousand miles of use the plastic side channels will start to leak anyway if it is 37 years old. Sorry if I missed where this was already discussed.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm no Mr. Fix it but why are you not replacing the radiator? Sounds like it is clogged with rust crud. Is it the stock radiator? Within a few thousand miles of use the plastic side channels will start to leak anyway if it is 37 years old. Sorry if I missed where this was already discussed.

+1

If Bill already flushed the engine than the radiator would be my first suspect.

[Farrar]

I'm no Mr. Fix it but why are you not replacing the radiator? Sounds like it is clogged with rust crud. Is it the stock radiator?

No, it is not the stock radiator. The radiator installed on #2613 appears to be all metal.

Replacing the radiator would seem to be a hasty decision at this point, in my opinion.

The fan switch failed during the flushing operation. I need to get my cooling fans working with a new switch. After that, I can continue troubleshooting the cooling system. In the meantime, I have a brand new thermostat and radiator cap, and the fluid currently circulating is much cleaner than two flushes ago. I think I am on the right track.

[Farrar]

If Bill already flushed the engine than the radiator would be my first suspect.

Dave, what is your theory on where the rust deposits are coming from? Are they coming from inside the radiator?

[DMC5180]

Dave, what is your theory on where the rust deposits are coming from? Are they coming from inside the radiator?

Rust and mineral deposits would mostly be coming from the Wet sleeve Cylinders and a couple Steel hose fittings in the head and water pump back housing. You can also have oxidation on the aluminum ( whitish residue) typically noticed when examining the inside of aluminum coolant pipes.


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[Bitsyncmaster]

Rust and mineral deposits would mostly be coming from the Wet sleeve Cylinders and a couple Steel hose fittings in the head and water pump back housing. You can also have oxidation on the aluminum ( whitish residue) typically noticed when examining the inside of aluminum coolant pipes.


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Yes rust would pretty much only come from the cylinder liners. Most of the other metal in contact with the coolant is aluminum. The problem now is that contamination probably plugged up the radiator. There may be a shop that can power flush the radiator but if it's still the OEM plastic side tanks, you really should replace it.

[dn010]

If you pull the hoses you might be able to see if the core/tubes have junk sticking out of them. It seems incredible that there was enough crap in the engine to block the radiator even after Bill did a flush. I am guessing the 3.0 doesn’t have block drains like the B280F that you just turn like a valve until it starts to flow?

Shame you aren’t on the west coast of FL, I would be glad to help!


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[Farrar]

if it's still the OEM plastic side tanks, you really should replace it.

No, it is not the stock radiator. The radiator installed on #2613 appears to be all metal.

Moving on...

I am guessing the 3.0 doesn’t have block drains like the B280F that you just turn like a valve until it starts to flow?

I have not seen that type of drain plug. This block has the kind where you put a square tool in and remove the plug. If it can be swapped out for the other kind, I guess now would be the time to determine that. It does sound more convenient.

[FABombjoy]

This block has the kind where you put a square tool in and remove the plug. If it can be swapped out for the other kind, I guess now would be the time to determine that. It does sound more convenient.

Just like the B28F. I wouldn't retrofit the heads with valves as you'll very rarely need to drain the block that way and it's probably not worth the effort. The plugs are sealed with crush washers so be sure to pick up the correct size. Copper or aluminum will work, M16 size IIRC.

If it's all metal a radiator shop should be able to assess the condition and flush if necessary. If it's an aftermarket 3 core the smaller passages may be why it was quick to plug up.