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Thread: 3.0L engine swap

  1. #401
    '82 T3 Turbo FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Well, the Dodge Monaco O-rings are a perfect fit (of course) but I still have a vacuum leak at cylinder #4.
    Digging back to this picture, the intake manifold appears to have slotted bolt holes and port spacing that's just a tad off. I wouldn't be surprised if it drifts around after several heat/cool cycles.

    If you can manipulate the manifold into a position that is leak-free at all ports you may want to consider something like nord lock washers on the manifold mounting bolts. I use nord locks on my crank position sensor and I swear you could lift the car by the sensor and it wouldn't move.

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    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

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  2. #402
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Digging back to this picture, the intake manifold appears to have slotted bolt holes and port spacing that's just a tad off. I wouldn't be surprised if it drifts around after several heat/cool cycles.

    If you can manipulate the manifold into a position that is leak-free at all ports you may want to consider something like nord lock washers on the manifold mounting bolts. I use nord locks on my crank position sensor and I swear you could lift the car by the sensor and it wouldn't move.

    Attachment 51645
    +1 on this. That particular port doesn't seem right, but I assume the slotted bolt holes allow for proper alignment of all 6 ports. Because of the V angle of the manifold, perhaps you need to progressively tighten the bolts while checking that the alignment hasn't moved.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
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  3. #403
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drive Stainless View Post
    Bill has another type of o-ring that he uses that may help seal the leak without resorting to RTV, etc.
    Yes, he does. Bill's O-rings are square and since they use English measurement instead of metric they are slightly smaller than the O-rings I purchased. These are the ones that failed after a few hundred miles of highway and city driving and a few weeks of sitting.

    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    the intake manifold appears to have slotted bolt holes and port spacing that's just a tad off.
    There are two sets of holes. The holes are very close together, so the washers obscure this fact.

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    That particular port doesn't seem right,
    Which port?

    ...

    Let us all remember that this engine ran trouble-free (apart from gunk in the cooling system) from the Georgia/SC border all the way to Fort Lauderdale, FL in early April. Then the car sat in the garage while I worked on the cooling system, which also involved running the engine. Then I had some other stuff crop up which prevented me from getting new tires until Memorial Day weekend. In all of that time, I did not touch anything in the engine compartment apart from the coolant tank cap. Whatever has happened, it has managed to happen during the three weeks when the car was sitting doing nothing. I think I should limit my investigation to things that can go wrong when an engine that was running just fine is not being used.

    My theory is that the anaerobic sealant has started to fail. Bill says that anaerobic sealant is the bee's knees, but he also put the transmission pan on with it and I've had a transmission fluid leak for over a month.

    Thanks for everyone pitching in trying to help me find a solution. It's annoying to have a DeLorean that runs ... but doesn't run quite right.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  4. #404
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    My theory is that the anaerobic sealant has started to fail. Bill says that anaerobic sealant is the bee's knees, but he also put the transmission pan on with it and I've had a transmission fluid leak for over a month.
    CORRECTION!!!


    Bill installed the oil pan with anaerobic sealant, not the transmission pan. Oil pan is leak-free.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  5. #405
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post

    Which port?
    ...

    My theory is that the anaerobic sealant has started to fail. Bill says that anaerobic sealant is the bee's knees, but he also put the transmission pan on with it and I've had a transmission fluid leak for over a month.
    The port for Cylinder#6:
    image.jpg

    It looks like the port is lower than the others, like the front part of the manifold dropped a bit.

    Anaerobic sealant is good for sealing a small (less than .015") gap in rigid machined parts pressed together like the 2 case halves of the manual transmission.

    The sealant won't cure in a cavity like the inside of an engine or transmission.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  6. #406
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    The port for Cylinder#6
    Could it be I solved one problem and created another? It wouldn't be the first time... Cylinders 1 and 6 show no signs of vacuum leak. Cylinders 3 and 4 do.

    I will get y'all some fresh pictures. Maybe your eyes can see something that mine can't.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  7. #407
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Got sidetracked by an electrical/computer problem with my daily driver. Anyway, here's where things stand with #2613.

    I put RTV underneath the O-rings. I installed the intake manifold. During installation, the RTV squished out a little around the edges. I guessed I used too much, but I also guessed that I would at least temporarily have a good seal.

    Nope.

    Too many other problems to deal with right now. This car will have to wait.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  8. #408
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    The daily isn't doing too well so I had to press #2613 into service today. Drove about 25 miles to work, and then 25 miles back. Maybe someone can help me with this problem. I don't think it's specific to the 3.0L engine.

    At speeds below about 3,000 RPM, the engine acts like it's missing on one cylinder: there's a lack of power and the engine rocks left and right so badly that the whole car shakes. Sitting at a stoplight, I'm literally being bounced around in the driver's seat. But at higher speeds (above ~3,000 RPM) the engine smooths out and is as responsive as I've come to expect.

    I've taken a timing light to all six cylinders and verified that it is not missing.

    ... Or have I?

    Is there a way for an engine to have a "hidden misfire"? How should I troubleshoot this?

    Having driven over 50 miles and done lots of idling in the garage under these conditions, would it be useful to pull the spark plugs and check for even color? Or would I be barking up the wrong tree?

    Suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  9. #409
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    First guess is that it is missing all the time. High RPM dampen/hide the missing.
    No, you can't rely on a timing light to identify a missing cylinder(s)...only that a miss might be caused by spark not getting as far as the place you clip the light to the wire. E.G. the light will flash if the plug is fowled, the wire is shorted to ground further down, A/F way off, or even if there is a hole in the piston.

    While the engine is running, carefully avoiding electrical shocks etc., pull and replace one wire at a time listening for any that DO NOT change the sound of the engine. They point to the problem: vacuum leak at that cylinder, its plug, FD/injector/(carb, esp. if more than one cylinder missing), valve/compression, ...
    If it is shaking that bad, it's probably more than one cylinder (vacuum leak #1).

  10. #410
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Thanks, Ron! I will do that next.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

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