3.0L engine swap

[dn010]

Let me know what your results are with the lights and AC on whenever you get to it. I recall Bill being the ground bus expert, both him and I installed a ground bus into our vehicles at close to the same time back then. It did make a slight difference back then (maybe just because the grounds were finally cleaned?) but now not so much for some reason, there is probably more wrong with my wiring/grounds that I'd need to chase down and I really do need to get a new alternator. I think I remember Dave M saying that there wouldn't be much of a result/not worth doing the ground bus unless you use a 2 or large AWG wire, I used 4 if my memory is fine so I guess I wasted my time.

Registration was pretty cheap down here in FL compared to a new vehicle which cost me over $400 each time! However, I did let my New York registration almost expire before I went to the DMV to register down here. I believe I paid around $80 for the D, 8 years ago. I also need new rear tires, let me know what you end up choosing!

[Farrar]

Let me know what your results are with the lights and AC on whenever you get to it.

Will do!

I also need new rear tires, let me know what you end up choosing!

Right now I am looking at the Mickey Thompson "Sportsman S/T" for the rears. It is an all-season radial with a good reputation and a decent price, and I think it would look appropriate mounted with the black side out.

For the fronts, I will get something in a matching tread pattern. The Uniroyal "Tiger Paw Touring" is the front-runner in my mind right now, another all-season radial with good reviews, and the price is pretty good. The tread is very similar to the Mickey Thompson, and without white letters I think it would be a fairly decent match.

...

I just drove to a filling station and back to put a few more gallons in the tank. It was about ten minutes each way in stop-and-go traffic (speed limit 45 MPH) and the outside temperature is about 80 degrees. The engine got up to temperature on the way there. On the way back, the gauge got up to about 220, the radiator fans were working and it held steady just below the 220 mark until I got home. I probably didn't burp the system properly yesterday since I was in a hurry to finish. Later today I will pull the cap and see what the situation is with the water.

I will mention that although the Dodge/Eagle system uses an 18 PSI cap, I am using a 16 PSI cap. And as a reminder: right now there is no coolant in the system, only water, during testing.

[Farrar]

#2613 may have a new engine and a bunch of new cooling system parts, but it stays true to its original modus operandi of creating new problems when I am working on old ones.

leak.jpg

From the color it looks like ATF. The car is on the ground now, so I can't see where it's coming from. Just one more thing to do.

[Lwanmtr]

is it dripping to the side of the transmission? Mine also leaks..I think the that the cooling lines and/or the filler neck thing may have bad seals from sitting so long.

[Farrar]

is it dripping to the side of the transmission?

Impossible to tell until I put the car in the air. I'll have to get back to you on that.

After installing the aftermarket transmission cooler (in the front) Bill made sure that everything was tight. The car also did not leak anything on the drive down from the GA/SC border all the way down to Fort Lauderdale. It sat in my garage not leaking anything until I started doing my cooling system work.

If memory serves, Bill did not install a new transmission pan gasket, instead beefing up what was left of the current one with some anaerobic sealant. It could be that that was a good enough fix for 400 miles or so, but it's now starting to fail. When I pull the transmission module/harness assembly for replacement with a new DMC unit, I will have to drop the pan. So I am hoping that the ATF is leaking at the pan, because I was going to install a new gasket at the time of module replacement.

Back to the cooling system problem: Now that everything has cooled off, I drained the fluid at the lower radiator hose. I am 100% thrilled with my drain install. I stuck one end of a 3/8" tube on the barb, stuck the other in an empty gallon jug, and opened the valve. Works exactly as I wanted it to. I didn't have to jack up the car and I didn't get a drop on the garage floor. (Only downside to this install: not enough room to swivel it upwards when not in use. Horn is in the way. Currently the barb's position is fixed parallel to the ground. Using a rubber cap prevents it from getting dirty, and it is not anywhere near the lowest point on the car in this position, so I am going to leave it there but keep a close eye on it.)

The water coming out is not as dirty as what I got out the first time. It looks like cloudy weak tea. It also doesn't have as many solid bits in it: in almost two gallons drained I only saw two little flakes a little larger than grains of sand. I'm going to continue this process with water (although I may use that Prestone radiator flush stuff again because it's probably more efficient) until what I drain is clear or close enough to clear that I'm satisfied. Then at that point I will get some coolant and do a proper 50/50 coolant/water mix.

Even with contaminated fluid, the temperature gauge never read above 220°F on my test drive. I'd say this is well on the way to being a healthy cooling system. I just need to get the contaminants out.

[DMC-81]

That's great progress Farrar! I like your solution for the coolant drain. I think it's smart going with the ball valve.... I find them really reliable.

I think your cooling system is healthy as well. Very encouraging! For comparison, my car with 50/50 Prestone, runs below 220 all of the time, with the fans engaging at about halfway between 220 and the unmarked line between 220 and 100. However, when I was idling in the parade line at Celebration (behind a '63 Split Window) for approximately 15 minutes in 80 degree weather, it went to 220, but no higher. When I was able to get moving and out from behind the hot V8 exhaust, it decreased to normal.

Also, your car sounds very good!

[Farrar]

my car with 50/50 Prestone, runs below 220 all of the time, with the fans engaging at about halfway between 220 and the unmarked line between 220 and 100.

Thanks, that's good to know. It seems my radiator fans are coming on at the right temperature. 220 seems to be the sweet spot -- I guess they put it in the middle of the gauge for a reason!

Also, your car sounds very good!

Thanks! I designed a "low restriction exhaust." ;-) Bill found the mufflers I used humorously large, but they fit, they will never rust, and I like how it sounds very "old school" at idle. (I wanted to make it a bit quieter by using baffled tips, but Bill ignored the ones I bought and just installed straight pipes on the end. He calls it "throaty." LOL)

In fact, a few people here on DMCTalk have asked (some of them several times...) how the exhaust sounds. I need to get my audio gear out and get some sound for those who are interested. One thing at a time, I guess.

[Farrar]

A little while ago, somebody on this thread (was it Rich_NYS?) asked several times for a video of the exhaust so they could hear how it sounded. Well, I hope whoever was asking is still reading and interested, because today I broke out my field recording kit and got some sound.

FYI, if you're viewing this video on a mobile device, I suggest you use headphones because most mobile speakers don't deliver very much bass. I used headphones to monitor when I was setting up the recording, and it sounds pretty accurate to me.



I hope this is useful.

[Farrar]

Was going to drain the coolant yesterday afternoon. (Making the video in the morning, the engine did get up to temperature, but I didn't record the fans running.) But I forgot.

So I drained it this morning. It's definitely getting less brown the more I run the engine. Hoping to put this car on the road for more than just a test drive soon.

In other news, my not-working temperature gauge suddenly seems to be working again. I wonder if contaminants in the system rendered it ineffective. For a while it read normally when cold, but would skyrocket when the engine warmed up.

[Farrar]

BTW, the spark plug boots for the 3.0L are water tight, unlike my old 2.8L spark plug boots. Design difference probably has something to do with it. Rubber goes all the way down:

3.0L spark plug boot.jpg