Page 52 of 52 FirstFirst ... 2 42 50 51 52
Results 511 to 514 of 514

Thread: 3.0L engine swap

  1. #511
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    4,618

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    I couldn't find any such marking on the carburetor. On the bottom, there's a giant "8" on one corner and "KT" on the other corner. The only other identifying marks are "Motorcraft" and "1.08," which we already knew...

    Bill says it's a 2100, but it looks to me like it has some features of the 2150. Not sure if that is helpful.
    Thought I posted this already??? ...Anyway-

    The number is usually on a tag under one of the front screws holding the top on. Some also have it stamped on the side of the mounting ear located on the linkage side, front.

    The "1.08" is the venturi size (common for ~289CID engine):

    X.XX = CFM
    0.98 = 190
    1.01 = 240
    1.02 = 245
    1.08 = 287
    1.14 = 300
    1.21 = 351
    1.23 = 356
    1.33 = 424

    All 2100's are curved across the back -- 2150's are straight. See below:
    2100ID.jpg 2150ID.jpg

    This Dashpot-Solenoid should work either way, IF your's has the correct mounting holes.
    $hop around tho!!

  2. #512
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    4,618

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    No improvement, or maybe a slight improvement. The car still rocks at idle.

    Note that "idle" in my case means three different things:
    (1) idling without a/c on and in "Park" or "Neutral," about 880-900 RPM.
    (2) idling without a/c on and in "Drive," about 760-800 RPM.
    (3) idling with a/c on and in "Drive," about 700-720 RPM.

    That is until the engine is really hot, in which case it's all of those + 50 RPM.

    FWIW, the 3.0L workshop manual says idle speed should be 790 RPM.

    I want to set the idle speed as low as possible without the engine dying in gear with the a/c on (had that happen - embarrassing), because otherwise when the engine is hot and I put the thing in "Park" and turn off the a/c, the engine diesels for a few seconds when I shut it off (also embarrassing).

    It's easier to see the "0" on the timing scale than any of the other numbers since it's so far to the right, so I bought a fancy new timing light which has provision for spark advance, set it to 14, and looked. Advance is at 14 at 780-800 RPM. That's probably not bad, so I'll leave it there.

    (Why the ~20 variance in the numbers? Because the numbers jump around when I am trying to set idle speed.)

    I'm not sure what to do now except finish charging the a/c and take the thing on a test drive. I need to put fuel in the tank, anyway, because it's down to a quarter tank. Probably it will run like it did before. But I am tired of banging my head against this wall. I will just drive the car and try not to be embarrassed by it. Par for the course with any other old car, so why not this one?

    This is not unusual: Bill can tweak one thing on my car and have it running fine, and all I have to do is drive it for a while and stuff starts going wrong with it. When it comes to all things automotive, if Bill is King Midas, I am the poop emoji.
    The dashpot-solenoid should solve the diesel and idle speed problems.

    For the other, you might try:
    While warmed up and idling, pull the plug wires one cylinder at a time looking for any that are not firing (no change in sound or RPM). If no luck, put a vacuum gauge on it and post a vid of idle, sloooow revs to red line, WOTs, etc.

  3. #513
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,788

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Farrar,

    Im not familiar with the 3.0 heads and Plug wire configuration. Does the 3.0 use the same style sparkplug boots as the B28F?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  4. #514
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    1,611

    My VIN:    5003

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Before putting more fuel in the tank, did you look at the old fuel in there to see if it is full of sediment? You will undo all the work you just did if you fill it up and it still has crap in it.
    -----Dan B.

Page 52 of 52 FirstFirst ... 2 42 50 51 52

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •