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Thread: 3.0L engine swap

  1. #161
    Voice For Hire Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Long Island, New York

    Posts:    4,240

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (LINY-DMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    Actually it can - if you use some care.
    I hereby yield the floor to DMCMW Dave on this issue.
    DeLorean status: 3.0L installed and running

  2. #162
    Matt Drive Stainless's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2016

    Location:  Washington D.C.

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    DMCMW Dave is the most active retired DeLorean mechanic that I know. Here's hoping he'll return to the "sport" after an 18-month sabbatical in true Chicago (a la Michael Jordan) style.
    New & Improved V3 S/S Alternator Tensioning Bracket - $39.99
    New & Used DeLorean Parts on eBay HERE.
    S/S Upper Alternator Bracket for Saturn/Autozone Alternator - $39.99
    QA1 Coil-Over Suspension Kit - Complete Kit - $1,149.99 w/ FREE SHIPPING
    QA1 "DIY" Coil-Over Suspension Kit - $99.99
    Mirror switch rebuilding service w/ new springs & ball bearings - $49.50
    HEI Performance Ignition Module (Exchange) - $149.99
    Welding services also (all metals)!
    http://www.drivestainless.com

  3. #163
    Voice For Hire Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Long Island, New York

    Posts:    4,240

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (LINY-DMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Drive Stainless View Post
    DMCMW Dave is the most active retired DeLorean mechanic that I know. Here's hoping he'll return to the "sport" after an 18-month sabbatical in true Chicago (a la Michael Jordan) style.
    On the other hand, he may just prefer to sit back and enjoy his well-earned retirement. I wouldn't think ill of him for that ... as long as he has the time to answer the occasional e-mail or phone call from me as I encounter problems not outlined in the Workshop Manual and seek his sage counsel. :-)
    DeLorean status: 3.0L installed and running

  4. #164
    Voice For Hire Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Long Island, New York

    Posts:    4,240

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (LINY-DMC) (DCUK)

    parts on order

    Replacement shift cable assembly and torque converter seal are en route.
    DeLorean status: 3.0L installed and running

  5. #165
    Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2017

    Posts:    38

    3.0 crank sensor and trigger

    So did someone make a kit to add the trigger wheel and sensor to the crank pulley?

    I just got a 91 3.0 distributor less motor. I want to use the coil pack and not the distributor.

  6. #166
    Voice For Hire Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Long Island, New York

    Posts:    4,240

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (LINY-DMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Jupiterbandit View Post
    So did someone make a kit to add the trigger wheel and sensor to the crank pulley?

    I just got a 91 3.0 distributor less motor. I want to use the coil pack and not the distributor.
    Welcome to DMCTalk.

    I don't know the answer to your question. You might get better results if you ask in the EFI sub-forum; most or all of the EFI conversions involve a trigger wheel and sensor for MegaSquirt or similar.
    DeLorean status: 3.0L installed and running

  7. #167
    Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2017

    Posts:    38

    Thanks

    Thanks Farrar. I'm still learning my way around the forum. I'll definitely check over there.

    I enjoyed reading your posts, they've been very helpful.

  8. #168
    Voice For Hire Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Long Island, New York

    Posts:    4,240

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (LINY-DMC) (DCUK)

    As seen on YouTube...

    The replacement shift cable assembly is installed. Since "stretching" (for lack of a better word) is what damaged the old unit, Bill raised the transmission until it was very nearly where it would be with the mounts bolted up, and then installed the replacement unit. I imagine that on any other car where access would not be a problem, R&R of this part would be a cinch; not so on the DMC-12. If you ever do this job, be careful and patient, and follow Dave's instructions to the letter.

    The torque converter lip seal also has been replaced. Once that seal fails, ATF comes out at an alarming rate, since operating pressure is somewhere near 116 PSI. (Good news: the fluid leaking from #2613's transmission looked very good.) It is far easier to remove the engine from the car than to remove the transmission from the car, so that's how Bill did it. I imagine by now he's a bit tired of pulling engines ... at least on this car.

    With the lip seal installed, the torque converter and engine can go back in. The new shift cable assembly has been tested and works. So the next thing to do is to put the back end of the car back together (an unbelievable amount of stuff is in the way of dropping the transmission), including the axles, and perhaps in the next few days Bill will test drive the car.
    DeLorean status: 3.0L installed and running

  9. #169
    Voice For Hire Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Long Island, New York

    Posts:    4,240

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (LINY-DMC) (DCUK)

    Gotta buy more parts!

    Bad news: Headlight switch is failing & fuel sender is dead.

    Good news: Otterstat, previously not working, is now working. (Probably corroded terminals "repaired" by being disconnected & connected a few times.)

    Test driving should start today. Nervous time for good ol' Farrar.

    I'd feel comfortable changing out the fuel sender in a hotel parking lot, but not the headlight switch. I guess to drive the car home I will have to figure out a way to temporarily bypass the switch and make the headlights come on when the key is in "run," temporarily turning them into full-time running lights. Without the car here I'm having a hard time remembering if there are any unused green/white wires I could put onto the coil of the headlight relay. If anyone reading this could help, I'd greatly appreciate it.
    DeLorean status: 3.0L installed and running

  10. #170
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    6,486

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Bad news: Headlight switch is failing & fuel sender is dead.

    Good news: Otterstat, previously not working, is now working. (Probably corroded terminals "repaired" by being disconnected & connected a few times.)

    Test driving should start today. Nervous time for good ol' Farrar.

    I'd feel comfortable changing out the fuel sender in a hotel parking lot, but not the headlight switch. I guess to drive the car home I will have to figure out a way to temporarily bypass the switch and make the headlights come on when the key is in "run," temporarily turning them into full-time running lights. Without the car here I'm having a hard time remembering if there are any unused green/white wires I could put onto the coil of the headlight relay. If anyone reading this could help, I'd greatly appreciate it.
    You could jumper the headlight relay to get the headlights on but that will not get your "running lights" on.

    I think you could also jumper the "light relay" (for your AC panel dimming). Put power to the red/orange wire to get the running lights working. I have not tried this but looks like it may work.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

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