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Thread: 3.0L engine swap

  1. #431
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    Side note: It's kind of ridiculously awesome that even if I am driving a DeLorean that sounds like a helicopter, is inches from overheating, has splitting, cracking paint on all of the painted pieces, and is missing part of the headliner with wires hanging down in the back, people still look at it and go, "Whoa, a DeLorean!" and take a photo.

    It may be a piece of crap, but it's a really cool piece of crap.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  2. #432
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    1,562

    My VIN:    5003

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    280! That is one bulletproof engine.
    -----Dan B.

  3. #433
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    280! That is one bulletproof engine.
    Or maybe it isn't. I just hope I don't have head gasket problems because of all of this crap. Fingers crossed...
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  4. #434
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    new carb adjustment tool

    Well, at least adjusting those hard-to-reach idle air screws shouldn't be as much of a problem now.

    carb tool.jpg
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  5. #435
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    I idled the engine for about 45 minutes today.

    Adjusted the idle mixture to reach maximum vacuum at 800 RPM idle speed. (Chrysler manual says 790 RPM. I rounded up.) Vacuum reading was shaky - needle was vibrating - but read about 17.5 inches at maximum. Still running lumpy.

    On the plus side, the cooling system seems to be getting healthier. The cooling fans came on at about 205F, and although the temperature never got back down far enough for the fans to turn back off (as they did with the previous engine), the temperature never got above 220F. I will keep draining and flushing.

    In other news, the eBay A/C compressor is already failing. Sometimes a bargain isn't a bargain.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  6. #436
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    Drained some more fluid from the cooling system. Lo and behold, it's a lot dirtier than the last time I drained it. This, combined with the fact that the temperature is more under control, makes me think that I might have had a clog in the system, which the liquid Cascade circulating throughout has started to break up.

    The technique seems to be working. I need some more liquid Cascade, and I am busy the next several days, but I hope to get back to this later next week. There is hope!
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  7. #437
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    Forgot to mention that I got tired of the radiator fans working only occasionally (the wires had sat on the exhaust manifold and got damaged) so I spliced new wire: from a few inches from the bulkhead connector, all the way down to the Otter switch. For good measure, I also cleaned all of the bulkhead terminals with white vinegar and a toothbrush. Some of them were corrosion-welded together. I had to pry the connectors off, cracking the plastic in the process (of course!). Since these connectors are NLA, I'm stuck with cracked connectors. Oh, well. Anyway, there's great continuity now on the radiator fan switch. The fans turn on at about 200 degrees just like they should. And my new favorite way to wrap harnesses is with expandable braided sleeving, secured at both ends with adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing.

    Now if I could only find a proper tool for extracting those blasted 3mm crimp pin and socket terminals. I'd really like to replace them, but I can't get them out of the connector housings!
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

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