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Thread: 3.0L engine swap

  1. #541
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmruschell View Post
    Does the timing light register steadily on all 6 plugs? A weak spark could still cause a misfire and register on the light, but possibly intermittently. If a wire is arcing, the timing light would also register a spark, but the spark isn't making it to the plug.

    If replacing the plugs, wires, and making sure the cap and rotor are in working order doesn't solve the issue, you likely have bigger problems that won't be fun.
    Yes, the light is steady on all six.

    To replace the wires I will need to learn how to make my own. These wires were made by Bill (although I swapped a cracked boot on one of them) because they have to have AMC/Jeep boots on one end and Dodge/Eagle boots on the other. Making plug wires is probably a skill I will need in the future, so I am happy to learn now to do it.

    Last time I checked the cap and rotor were fine. But the plugs were black. I didn't think a dirty plug could cause a misfire (only oil-fouled plugs), but I just looked it up online and apparently it can, because the carbon buildup will create a path to ground that sidesteps the air gap on the plug.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  2. #542
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    2,405

    My VIN:    01049

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Last time I checked the cap and rotor were fine. But the plugs were black. I didn't think a dirty plug could cause a misfire (only oil-fouled plugs), but I just looked it up online and apparently it can, because the carbon buildup will create a path to ground that sidesteps the air gap on the plug.
    Oh a dirty plug SURE can cause a misfire! While tuning the carb for my LS swap, I dirtied the hell out of several sets of plugs. And to remove the plugs on my car, you have to remove the exhaust headers. Quite fun!

    Plug wire making isn't hard. Do yourself a favor and get a plug wire crimping tool.
    -Mike

    My engine twists my frame.

    1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
    1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  3. #543
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    +1

    Did someone mention to pull the plug wires one at a time and listen....

  4. #544
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    2,405

    My VIN:    01049

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    +1

    Did someone mention to pull the plug wires one at a time and listen....
    Does this mean we can hug?
    -Mike

    My engine twists my frame.

    1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
    1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  5. #545
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2012

    Location:  Jarretsville, MD

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    My VIN:    5786, 3196

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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Yes, the light is steady on all six.

    To replace the wires I will need to learn how to make my own. These wires were made by Bill (although I swapped a cracked boot on one of them) because they have to have AMC/Jeep boots on one end and Dodge/Eagle boots on the other. Making plug wires is probably a skill I will need in the future, so I am happy to learn now to do it.

    Last time I checked the cap and rotor were fine. But the plugs were black. I didn't think a dirty plug could cause a misfire (only oil-fouled plugs), but I just looked it up online and apparently it can, because the carbon buildup will create a path to ground that sidesteps the air gap on the plug.
    Yeah, if the plugs are black, they should be replaced regardless of whatever issues you may be having.

    I was trying to track down a misfire on my DeLorean for years. It was an intermittent misfire that would only occur occasionally, and it would disappear as quickly and randomly as it would appear. At one point, I had some great DeLorean mechanics check for vacuum leaks using starter fluid. An arcing plug wire ignited the fluid (and it quickly burned off, but did make me panic internally for a few seconds), so I replaced all of the plug wires. Soon after, the misfire returned.

    This summer, I finally checked the plugs, and they were all darker than they should be. My KJet mixture is set correctly per the manual, but something must be slightly off enough that it just slightly fouled the plugs enough that one would quit sparking every so often. It was frustrating diagnosing it, but it's something that should have been obvious in hindsight. Good on you for not chasing your tail for years like I did.
    -Derrin

    5786: DPI cams and cat-less exhaust, galvanized and powder coated manual frame for a proper 5-speed conversion

    3196 - My wife's DeLorean: DMCH new build, DPI rebuilt engine with performance cams and exhaust

    1956 Oldsmobile Super 88
    1960 Chevrolet Impala
    1961 Corvette
    1972 Buick Skylark GS 455 Clone
    1975 Corvette (to be sold once restored)
    1976 Corvette (wife's car)
    1979 Corvette Daily Driver
    1987 Corvette (technically wife's car)

  6. #546
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethmike View Post
    Does this mean we can hug?
    I've been HERE for you for about a hundred posts now...

  7. #547
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    My VIN:    02613

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    I am too chicken to pull a plug wire on a running engine. I am not ashamed to admit it. Sorry, Ron. Cluck cluck.

    Anyway, I picked up new spark plugs today and will install them tomorrow. I have a feeling they will solve this rough-running problem (which probably started with the leaky power valve, but I may never know). However, tomorrow is another "wake up at 3:15am" day so I don't want to do anything that requires a lot of critical thinking. :P I can come home from work, change the spark plugs, and then take a nap. LOL

    As for the running-too-hot problem, I am tired of working on it piecemeal and I have chosen to simply "shotgun" the front end of the car.

    Parts order list:

    - radiator (DeLoreanGo)
    - fan shroud (DeLoreanGo)
    - fans (DeLoreanGo)
    - front spoiler air duct (DMC Orlando)
    - stainless brackets (DPI)
    - poly bushings (DeLoreanGo)
    - stainless fasteners (DeLoreanGo)

    ... my Christmas/Hanukkah/Festivus/Yule/Solstice/Krampus/Saturnalia present to myself.

    (Wait ... is Krampus a festival? Eh, whatever.)

    Am I missing anything from that list? So far all I have ordered is the brackets from DPI. (... who processed my order on a Sunday! Impressive.)

    #2613 has not had a front spoiler air duct since before I bought it. I didn't know there was such a thing until Bill mentioned that it was missing on my car. Several people have told me that if the engine runs hotter on the highway and cooler at idle, it's because that duct is missing. I will be in Orlando next weekend, so I can save myself the shipping cost.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  8. #548
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    2,405

    My VIN:    01049

    There really is no harm in pulling wires on a running engine. I've done it literally hundreds of times and I am perfectly okay. That said, from the sounds of it, replacing the plugs should help quite a bit.

    I like your decision to 'have at it' with the cooling system. I would suggest having a second person to help when you lower the radiator out, and lift it back up. It's a bit awkward and heavy.
    -Mike

    My engine twists my frame.

    1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
    1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  9. #549
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by opethmike View Post
    There really is no harm in pulling wires on a running engine. I've done it literally hundreds of times and I am perfectly okay. That said, from the sounds of it, replacing the plugs should help quite a bit.

    I like your decision to 'have at it' with the cooling system. I would suggest having a second person to help when you lower the radiator out, and lift it back up. It's a bit awkward and heavy.
    Good to know. Thanks.

    ...

    I changed the spark plugs today. The last time I looked at the old ones (before the hot drive to Miami and back, about 60 miles) they were black. This time they were white, with little white crystal-looking deposits on them. Also, the porcelain insulators were all pink. Weird. Anyway, they're all out now, and replaced with middle-of-the-road NGKs.

    I did not get as aggressive with the plug gap as Bill likes: the new plugs are gapped at .036". Cluck, cluck.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  10. #550
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

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    The plug gap would depend on what coil you're using, what ignition module you're using, etc.

    Stock coil, stock gap. I know Bill was experimenting with Ford duraspark, HEI and whatever else. What coil and other goodies are you running?
    -----Dan B.

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