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Thread: 3.0L engine swap

  1. #191
    Senior Member NckT's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Yorkshire UK

    Posts:    198

    My VIN:    No. 4068

    Oh right, sorry lads I wasn't aware. I thought it was referring to an accumulator gurgling noise!
    RIP Rob van de Veer Top bloke

    I say Sir, I must be mad, one loves fixing K-Jet !

    Make sure there's plenty in the tank for the weekend chaps....

  2. #192
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    My VIN:    02613

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    Quote Originally Posted by NckT View Post
    Oh right, sorry lads I wasn't aware. I thought it was referring to an accumulator gurgling noise!
    No worries, thanks for pitching in.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  3. #193
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Two steps forward, one step back.

    Three things tonight:

    1. While road testing, the headlight switch got stuck in the "on" position. With no radio to get in the way, Bill was able to stick his hand in the gap and unplug the switch to turn the lights off. Turning them on again will be a problem.

    2. Transmission is in third gear the entire time "Drive" is selected. "2" brings it to second and "1" brings it to first as it should, but "D" means you're stuck in third no matter what speed you're going.

    3. Coolant temp. sensor is sending bad info or gauge is failing: below 220 it's accurate, but above that it gets very high very fast.

    It's definitely not ready to drive home yet.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  4. #194
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    My VIN:    02613

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    Re: #2 above: It should be noted that I am running Jeff Angwin's digital computer governor -- I spliced it into the harness at the back of the engine compartment and ran extensions to mount the computer box in the driver-side cubby hole.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  5. #195
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Almost forgot to mention the good news: I got #2613 registered in New York! Now when I pick it up, all I have to do is put the plates and stickers on, and I will be good to go (with a ten-day grace period for getting it inspected, of course).
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  6. #196
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Taylors SC

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    My VIN:    (former)05429

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Re: #2 above: It should be noted that I am running Jeff Angwin's digital computer governor -- I spliced it into the harness at the back of the engine compartment and ran extensions to mount the computer box in the driver-side cubby hole.
    Bill never mentioned that when we were talking about the problem. Argh. I hate to bad-mouth things, but I've only seen a couple of those units on cars and they were always defective. And then I have to splice all the wires back together.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  7. #197
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    My VIN:    02613

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    Bill never mentioned that when we were talking about the problem.
    It's possible that Bill had not yet read, or never received, the e-mail I sent him about this modification, when y'all talked on the phone. (I am not convinced Bill's e-mail and my Gmail are communicating 100%.)

    I suggested that he check my splices to make sure they were secure. Since they're in the engine compartment, who knows -- they could have been bumped by engine removal, replacement, removal, and replacement. I installed the unit before I knew how to solder and just used crimp connectors. (Yeah, I know - I was young and foolish. I plan to replace those crimp connectors with proper soldered lineman splices when I get the car back.)
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  8. #198
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Bill now says that it's impossible to even manually select first gear.

    He mentioned that he checked Fuse #13, which the workshop manual says is the fuse for the transmission computer. Fuse #13 is good.

    I spent a few hours today studying the car's wiring diagram to see if there were any other fuses to check. It seems that Fuse #16's output is a light green wire with a white tracer that goes to the auto trans. harness. (Large L-shaped connector.)

    I looked at the wiring diagram for the automatic transmission computer and it seems that the light green/white wire provides power for shift solenoid #2.

    Looking at the workshop manual for solenoid engagement, it looks like first gear is solenoids 1 & 2, second gear is solenoid 2, and third gear is neither solenoid. Can someone confirm this?
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  9. #199
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
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    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Funny what kind of discrepancies you can find digging through the Workshop Manual.

    The wiring diagram clearly shows that fuse 18 has a green/purple wire to the brake lights & reverse lights.

    But in the very same section of the very same book, the fused circuit list says that the reverse lights are on fuse 16.

    Which is correct? I guess I will find out one day when I get my hands on a DeLorean again.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  10. #200
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    3.0L engine swap

    I believe early cars used Fuse 18 for brake lights. Later VIN cars use a inline fuse holder located under the left side center console near coin tray IIRC. This is why in a lot of cars fuse 18 is empty.

    Not sure where the VIN break is in the production run.

    It may correlate with the cars that you can step on the brake pedal and have brake lights without the key being ON. On later cars you have to turn the Key ON to have Brake lights.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by DMC5180; 06-28-2017 at 08:24 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

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