Page 22 of 44 FirstFirst ... 12 20 21 22 23 24 32 ... LastLast
Results 211 to 220 of 437

Thread: 3.0L engine swap

  1. #211
    Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech RamblinDMC's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2015

    Location:  Atlanta

    Posts:    246

    My VIN:    2203

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    This is my parts list (mouser) from when I rebuilt my shift governor. I didn't use all of the parts though. Just replacing the main big resistors, all of the capacitors, and the two large transistors got my transmission working correctly again. You really just need the two large TIP42C transistors, and the capacitors. The resistors are probably still fine. I ordered everything on the board just to be safe anyway. The total was something like $16.

    Good luck!

    I'd be willing to do the work for you if you'd like.

    Thanks!
    Jayce


    IMG_20160319_230945032.jpgIMG_20160319_230933188.jpgIMG_20160319_214832825.jpg
    Attached Files
    Last edited by RamblinDMC; 06-30-2017 at 12:57 PM.

  2. #212
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,773

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    It's amazing to see how crudely these boards were made. Hand assembled Technology of the day. Compare that with modern day Surface mount assemblies built by high speed robots. The difference is staggering.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  3. #213
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,098

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by RamblinDMC View Post
    This is my parts list (mouser) from when I rebuilt my shift governor. I didn't use all of the parts though. Just replacing the main big resistors, all of the capacitors, and the two large transistors got my transmission working correctly again. You really just need the two large TIP42C transistors, and the capacitors. The resistors are probably still fine. I ordered everything on the board just to be safe anyway. The total was something like $16.

    Good luck!

    I'd be willing to do the work for you if you'd like.

    Thanks!
    Jayce


    IMG_20160319_230945032.jpgIMG_20160319_230933188.jpgIMG_20160319_214832825.jpg
    It looks like the two capacitors in your photo #3 have blown the sealing out of the end.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #214
    Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech RamblinDMC's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2015

    Location:  Atlanta

    Posts:    246

    My VIN:    2203

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    It looks like the two capacitors in your photo #3 have blown the sealing out of the end.

    They were certainly bad. Good thing I was able to replace them.

  5. #215
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    It's amazing to see how crudely these boards were made. Hand assembled Technology of the day.
    One of the things I like to tell people is that although the DMC-12 is associated with the 1980s, it was essentially designed in the 1970s and built to 1970s standards using 1970s technology.

    ...

    An engineer friend of mine is not so sure about the recommended 1N4007 diodes, because of how terrible automotive power is ... he suggests putting a TVS at 18 volts and a Schottky in reverse as better protection.

    And because big caps are cheap, he suggests a 33 uF ceramic with 50-100v rating in parallel with the 100 nF. Leave the 100 nF in there because the ESR is probably lower.

    Time for me to take a crash course in basic electronics.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  6. #216
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,098

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    One of the things I like to tell people is that although the DMC-12 is associated with the 1980s, it was essentially designed in the 1970s and built to 1970s standards using 1970s technology.

    ...

    An engineer friend of mine is not so sure about the recommended 1N4007 diodes, because of how terrible automotive power is ... he suggests putting a TVS at 18 volts and a Schottky in reverse as better protection.

    And because big caps are cheap, he suggests a 33 uF ceramic with 50-100v rating in parallel with the 100 nF. Leave the 100 nF in there because the ESR is probably lower.

    Time for me to take a crash course in basic electronics.
    The capacitor voltage rating drops when operated in elevated heat. Probably 25 volt Tantalum caps would be the best choice if they physically fit. The 0.1 uf ceramic caps at 50 volts are the common high frequency bypass caps.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #217
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    Jayce, thanks for your parts list. I will have it on hand for future reference.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  8. #218
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    test rig to fire solenoids manually?

    Things are getting very sad for #2613. I have to make a last-ditch attempt to figure out what the problem is. If it is the controller, there's no way Bill is going to replace it. He will more likely tow the car up here and have me deal with it.

    If I knew enough about this circuit, I might be able to diagnose controller failure by firing the solenoids manually using some kind of test rig with a couple of switches (and looking at the test lights to confirm). But I do not know enough about this circuit. I need help.

    Here's the situation as well as I can remember it:

    - wiring harness has been hacked into at the firewall and the original computer governor bypassed in order to install Angwin controller via splices
    - splices run from butt connectors at the firewall to one half of a 12-pin molex connector
    - Angwin controller is in driver's cubby hole, connected via other half of the 12-pin molex connector

    All I have to do in order to remove the Angwin controller is unplug that molex connector. Then I have unfettered access to every wire in that harness except for the diagnostic wires.

    I need help from the experts: Is there any way I could remove the Angwin controller and connect a couple of switches to the molex connector in order to test fire those solenoids? All of the wires are labeled by color of the wires in the original wiring harness, so figuring out which wire is easy as long as I know the color.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  9. #219
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    Bill beat me to it: he was able to fire the solenoids manually with a couple of jumper wires.

    Now that we know the transmission itself is OK, Bill will mail the Angwin controller to me so that I can repair it, with a little help from my friends. (Apologies to any Beatles fans.)
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  10. #220
    Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2017

    Posts:    38

    Bill is the man!

    Congrats on the news. Looks like it's moving forwards.

Page 22 of 44 FirstFirst ... 12 20 21 22 23 24 32 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •