Thank you, Ron!Originally Posted by Ron
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Thank you, Ron!
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,108
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
Update on the fuel sender? Was it a bad connection/ground or did it end up being the sender?
-----Dan B.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
The replacement sending unit fixed the problem.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
The temperature gauge is still completely wacko. It starts at the bottom as normal, but as the engine warms up you can watch the needle move faster and faster until it's almost at the top of the scale even before the thermal trip turns the fans on. I won't be driving the car home any time soon.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Lexington, NC
Posts: 791
My VIN: #5000 (Grey, manual, SS chassis, intercooled twin turbo), #16128 (Grey, auto, efi twin turbo), #888
Club(s): (DCVA) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
What's the status of the auto trans computer governor issue?
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
The controller has been temporarily bypassed and the solenoids can be controlled manually from inside the vehicle. Not a permanent solution, but good enough to get the car home where I can repair the controller.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
You will need to use the DeLorean gauge sender if you want the gauge to read correctly.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
I'm using one.
Sending unit threads are the same between the 2.8L and the 3.0L. When the new engine was installed, the previous engine donated its sending units.
However, just to make absolutely sure that we had a functioning temperature sender installed, Bill installed a sender from a different 2.8L and checked that the gauge misbehaved in the exact same way. Then he used your table (from your Electronic Otterstat thread) to measure resistance at varied temperatures.
The sending unit checks out. The gauge is the problem. Right now it is worse than useless: during testing, the needle moved all the way to the right side and is now stuck pointing at the letter F. My theory is the resistor on the back of the gauge has failed. But there's no way to test this theory without removing the gauge cluster. That will be work for when the car is at home in my garage.
#2613 has no Thermo-Time Switch, but there's a threaded hole where one would go. An aftermarket sending unit will be installed into that hole and connected to a temporary gauge fitted inside the car where I can see it, just for peace of mind on the drive home. Once the car is in my garage, I can tackle the transmission computer and the temperature gauge.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Farrar,
did your gauge needle happen to move Backwards to the Right or just keep moving clockwise?
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
It was pointing straight up when the engine was shut off. My guess is that it simply fell down to the right instead of to the left when shut off.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
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Dave M vin 03572