A/C Won't Flush.

[content22207_2]

[*]Drain and refill the compressor with the mineral oil (replace O-rings)

I'd use Ester. It's the universal refrigerant oil.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[spikeygg]

I'd use Ester. It's the universal refrigerant oil.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Sorry that's what I meant, Ester oil, but is that the only correction?

[content22207_2]

My Autozone loans vacuum pumps, but found out at Brandon's house his Autozone doesn't (none of the parts houses around there do). At the time I didn't own a vacuum pump of my own (just borrowed one from Autozone whenever needed), so we used engine vacuum instead. It works, but a proper vacuum pump is optimal. Vacuum pumps don't cost very much, so you may as well buy one if you can't find a loaner.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Bitsyncmaster]

Don't want to hijack this thread but I have a related question.

I was thinking about pulling the accumulator and orifice tubes from my system and flush the two halves independently -- is that a bad idea? I was planning on flushing both of them in reverse to maximize the effect.

That is how I do it. If your careful and use two wrenches, you don't damage the evaporator removing the accumulator. I had installed a VOV valve to replace the orifice and it did not work because the tube had a bend in it. It also got stuck when I went to remove it. I pressurized at the compressor and plugged the open hoses and it blew that VOV valve out like a bullet.

[WHO1DMC]

Sounds like a plan I'll start at the evaporator and remove orifice tube and accumulator . The nuts on the accumulator are the one's that move correct?


Dave B.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Sounds like a plan I'll start at the evaporator and remove orifice tube and accumulator . The nuts on the accumulator are the one's that move correct?


Dave B.

Good question. I guess I never really thought about that before since I can usually see what should move. I just looked at a spare accumulator I have and there are no movable nuts on it. That is the new type accumulator. Some of the older Ds used another type that had a hose connection on the bottom.

[bfloyd]

Sounds like a plan I'll start at the evaporator and remove orifice tube and accumulator . The nuts on the accumulator are the one's that move correct?

NO... The nut on the accumulator is fixed and welded on. The part of the fitting that moves on those pipes are on the evaporator tubes. I repeatedly soaked mine in PB Blaster for almost two weeks before I took a shot at it with wrenches the other night. Had my oldest son lay under the wheel well and hold on to the accumulator while I crawled up in the trunk and loosened the fittings on the evaporator tubes. Came right off with hardly no struggle at all. Once the accumulator was out, removing the line and fitting to the orifice tube was super easy.

As soon as Josh (DPI) gets me the instructions on how to assemble these new fittings, I'll be back up and running with air conditioning.

[Farrar]

If [you're] careful and use two wrenches, you don't damage the evaporator removing the accumulator.

And here's hoping the previous owner didn't install any "stop leak" which essentially corrosion-welds the connection. All that wrenching on mine caused a breach in the tube. I ripped the damn thing out with half of the short hose still on it.

[DMCMW Dave]

And here's hoping the previous owner didn't install any "stop leak" which essentially corrosion-welds the connection. All that wrenching on mine caused a breach in the tube. I ripped the damn thing out with half of the short hose still on it.

It doesn't take stop leak. A year of driving in a area of salted roads will do a fine job of welding the aluminum and steel pipes together.

[content22207_2]

I would go so far to say merely driving in wet weather will eventually weld the aluminum and steel together (electrolysis/galvanic corrosion uses plain old H2O as the electrolyte).

Lotus may be geniuses, but putting the accumulator in the wheel well wasn't exactly the smartest thing they've ever done.

Bill Robertson
#5939