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Thread: I need help to replace my Trunk hinges on the front of my car

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Springfield MO

    Posts:    27

    My VIN:    10439

    I need help to replace my Trunk hinges on the front of my car

    I couldn't find a thread giving advice on replacing the trunk hinges. My hinges are VERY rusty so I just ordered the replacement hinges through the DMC in Texas. I would like any advise that you can offer on how to complete this. I'm sure several of you have done this in the past so any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

    Posts:    3,047

    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Have you started spraying the nuts with PB Blaster yet?

    This would probably be a good thread to read as well:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?36...2193#post52193

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Renton, WA

    Posts:    342

    My VIN:    02261

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    I have done this so here are my simple and boring instructions.
    Print out this step by step instructions and get your Parts Manual ready and set them next to your D for reference.

    Step one remove the Hood (Bonnet) with someone to help you. It’s just big and awkward and difficult to do by your self. Loosen the four nuts on each Hinge. Remove the Safety Clips item number 37 page 8/4/2 of the Parts Manual on each of the Gas Charged Struts. Pull on the Grommet item number 2 page 3/7/2 and disconnect the Hood Courtesy Light wiring. Now have your assistant hold the Hood up while you remove the two Gas Charged Struts and the four nuts on each Hinge.

    Step two remove the seven Philips head screws that are positioned in between the hood hinges. They may be very rusted like mine were so I replaced them with stainless steel ones. I may have also replaced the seven Spire Nuts that the Philips head screws attach to. Spire Nut item number 13 on page 8/5/0.

    Step three remove the hex head bolt that is beside the left hood hinge and the hex head bolt next to the right hood hinge.

    Step four raise the front end of the D either by using a floor jack with two jack stands. Or drive the front end up onto some ramps.

    Step five remove the black plastic Headlamp Gap Finish in between the head light bulbs.

    Step six remove the stainless steel Bezel holding the head lights in place and unplug all four head lights.

    Step seven remove the black plastic Grill item 40 on page 8/5/0. It is held in place by ball and socket studs. It would help to have a pry bar to remove it or simply your fingers work pretty good like a pry bar.

    Step eight remove the two amber Turn Signal Lenses. There are two Philips screws holding each lens in place.

    Step nine remove the black plastic Radiator Duct which is item number 1 on page 8/5/0. Oh how I hated removing that Radiator Duct. At least one of the bolts spun in place so I had to cut the head off with my Dremel tool. And later putting it back in was a pain.

    Step ten remove the front black plastic Spoiler with a small 10 mm combination wrench and a small 10 mm socket wrench.

    Step eleven remove the Radiator Guard Grill. Mine was so rusted that I bought a new stainless steel one from delorean.com.

    Step twelve remove the nut (or is it a bolt?) securing the front Fascia to the front Fascia Mid Support item 29 on page 8/5/0.

    Step thirteen remove the hidden nut (one on each side) with a 10 mm combo wrench on the inside left and inside right of the front Fascia. The nut location is hidden under the black portion of the Fascia.

    Step fourteen pull off the Fascia starting on the bottom and sort of peel it upwards like raising a garage door. There is a hidden threaded stud (one on each side) that will fight against you until you give up. These two threaded studs are glued to the inside of the Fascia and were holding the nuts that you removed on step thirteen.

    Step fifteen remove the four bolts that hold each Hood Hinge in place.
    You now realize you will need to also replace the Friction Pad item 26 on page 8/5/0. Or at least I replaced them since my originals were brittle and broke apart and I could not reinstall them.

    To reinstall follow the above procedure starting with step fifteen and work your way up. It’s just that easy.
    Mark Vanyo
    Links to DeLorean related web sites!
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19...s-Part-I-of-II.

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Springfield MO

    Posts:    27

    My VIN:    10439

    Quote Originally Posted by outatym2001 View Post
    I have done this so here are my simple and boring instructions.
    Print out this step by step instructions and get your Parts Manual ready and set them next to your D for reference.

    Step one remove the Hood (Bonnet) with someone to help you. It’s just big and awkward and difficult to do by your self. Loosen the four nuts on each Hinge. Remove the Safety Clips item number 37 page 8/4/2 of the Parts Manual on each of the Gas Charged Struts. Pull on the Grommet item number 2 page 3/7/2 and disconnect the Hood Courtesy Light wiring. Now have your assistant hold the Hood up while you remove the two Gas Charged Struts and the four nuts on each Hinge.

    Step two remove the seven Philips head screws that are positioned in between the hood hinges. They may be very rusted like mine were so I replaced them with stainless steel ones. I may have also replaced the seven Spire Nuts that the Philips head screws attach to. Spire Nut item number 13 on page 8/5/0.

    Step three remove the hex head bolt that is beside the left hood hinge and the hex head bolt next to the right hood hinge.

    Step four raise the front end of the D either by using a floor jack with two jack stands. Or drive the front end up onto some ramps.

    Step five remove the black plastic Headlamp Gap Finish in between the head light bulbs.

    Step six remove the stainless steel Bezel holding the head lights in place and unplug all four head lights.

    Step seven remove the black plastic Grill item 40 on page 8/5/0. It is held in place by ball and socket studs. It would help to have a pry bar to remove it or simply your fingers work pretty good like a pry bar.

    Step eight remove the two amber Turn Signal Lenses. There are two Philips screws holding each lens in place.

    Step nine remove the black plastic Radiator Duct which is item number 1 on page 8/5/0. Oh how I hated removing that Radiator Duct. At least one of the bolts spun in place so I had to cut the head off with my Dremel tool. And later putting it back in was a pain.

    Step ten remove the front black plastic Spoiler with a small 10 mm combination wrench and a small 10 mm socket wrench.

    Step eleven remove the Radiator Guard Grill. Mine was so rusted that I bought a new stainless steel one from delorean.com.

    Step twelve remove the nut (or is it a bolt?) securing the front Fascia to the front Fascia Mid Support item 29 on page 8/5/0.

    Step thirteen remove the hidden nut (one on each side) with a 10 mm combo wrench on the inside left and inside right of the front Fascia. The nut location is hidden under the black portion of the Fascia.

    Step fourteen pull off the Fascia starting on the bottom and sort of peel it upwards like raising a garage door. There is a hidden threaded stud (one on each side) that will fight against you until you give up. These two threaded studs are glued to the inside of the Fascia and were holding the nuts that you removed on step thirteen.

    Step fifteen remove the four bolts that hold each Hood Hinge in place.
    You now realize you will need to also replace the Friction Pad item 26 on page 8/5/0. Or at least I replaced them since my originals were brittle and broke apart and I could not reinstall them.

    To reinstall follow the above procedure starting with step fifteen and work your way up. It’s just that easy.

    Thanks for sending me this Mark. This will really help me. My neighbor and I will tackle this in the next few weeks.

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