DaraSue and 10907's excellent adventure

[DaraSue]

You can bleed it without a pressure tester, it's just simpler and faster with one.

Yes, some auto parts stores will loan them out. Department store auto sections won't have them. NAPA or another major auto parts place will.

I advise owners to invest in a good one, like the kit made by Stant. It's good for troubleshooting, saves the trouble of trips to get/return the loaner. Also, with the rad cap adapter you can check the radiator cap.

LINK: Stant test kit

Remember, you'll want to drain-refill the coolant every 2-3 yrs. And then bleed the system.

What's the ideal way to do it without one on this car? http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how...cooling-system These instructions talk about running it with the cap off but I thought the manual specifically said not to do that?

Just checked and there's a NAPA her so maybe I can get over there tomorrow.

[whocruiser]

Regarding possible trapped air and bleeding the system - Dave or Dara Sue - do you know if the car has a cooling system auto-bleeder modification on it? Either the old "basic" thermostat housing only version or the "new & improved" thermostat housing & radiator version that Toby at DMCNW makes and shares with the other DMC outlets? It won't stop an existing leak, but it usually WILL keep you going by automatically blowing out any air that does come through the system, whether previously trapped in a sealed but not fully bled one, or a not too badly compromised leaky one. Has saved my butt on a few occasions, and was one of the only aftermarket mods that I actually moved over to 1150 from 1662 when I traded her in to Tony at DMCFL (the other two being the Dashmat Velour Mat, and the Hervey reissue of Bauerle's original hot air deflector that goes between the fans & the fuel tank.) Dara Sue, if you have it, it looks like this on my car. But you'll probably also have a metal ice shield in front of the throttle spool & bleeder valve nipple, and almost certainly have the two BIG black rubber main coolant hoses, not the hard metal piping that us early-car owners have.)

CoolantAutobleederDetails.jpg

[dn010]

I had a very similar issue. Temp would be normal on the back roads but as soon as I hit the highway it would raise to a concerning level. I changed my expansion tank cap (rubber disk was broken and not sealing) and haven't had a problem since.

[DaraSue]

Regarding possible trapped air and bleeding the system - Dave or Dara Sue - do you know if the car has a cooling system auto-bleeder modification on it? Either the old "basic" thermostat housing only version or the "new & improved" thermostat housing & radiator version that Toby at DMCNW makes and shares with the other DMC outlets? It won't stop an existing leak, but it usually WILL keep you going by automatically blowing out any air that does come through the system, whether previously trapped in a sealed but not fully bled one, or a not too badly compromised leaky one. Has saved my butt on a few occasions, and was one of the only aftermarket mods that I actually moved over to 1150 from 1662 when I traded her in to Tony at DMCFL (the other two being the Dashmat Velour Mat, and the Hervey reissue of Bauerle's original hot air deflector that goes between the fans & the fuel tank.) Dara Sue, if you have it, it looks like this on my car. But you'll probably also have a metal ice shield in front of the throttle spool & bleeder valve nipple, and almost certainly have the two BIG black rubber main coolant hoses, not the hard metal piping that us early-car owners have.)

CoolantAutobleederDetails.jpg

I don't think so? This is what I have.

IMG_20160826_100002.jpgIMG_20160826_100017.jpg

(Pic of the engine compartment to follow because I have to email it to myself from my phone and I can only connect one device to the Motel 6 wifi at a time)

I just tried doing step a of this http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/200...rean-baby.html but I'm a bit hesitant to start pulling hoses off in the parking lot. The coolant was splashing everywhere so I hope I didn't short anything out

[David T]

I had a very similar issue. Temp would be normal on the back roads but as soon as I hit the highway it would raise to a concerning level. I changed my expansion tank cap (rubber disk was broken and not sealing) and haven't had a problem since.

That is very possible. If you have a bad cap and it isn't pressurizing the system when it gets hot, you can suck the hose flat on the suction side of the water pump. The other thing you can do is put a spring inside the hose. Most pressure tester kits have an adapter so you can also test the cap.

[DaraSue]

That is very possible. If you have a bad cap and it isn't pressurizing the system when it gets hot, you can suck the hose flat on the suction side of the water pump. The other thing you can do is put a spring inside the hose. Most pressure tester kits have an adapter so you can also test the cap.

The cap looked ok, I think. The seller replaced the bottle so it should be fairly new.

[dn010]

If you're overheating and can't make it, then I could see a parking lot repair here. However if you're close to home and you can coast along with good gauges, get it there and make it a garage repair instead - messing with the cooling system far away could be dangerous.

[DaraSue]

IMG_2273.jpg

Here's what I've got (more or less, this pic is one the seller sent before I had it work done at DMC MW)

[DaraSue]

If you're overheating and can't make it, then I could see a parking lot repair here. However if you're close to home and you can coast along with good gauges, get it there and make it a garage repair instead - messing with the cooling system far away could be dangerous.

I've got another 200 miles. The issue isn't consistent but I've got a mountain range to cross. I saw quite a few bubbles while attempting to bleed it so hopefully that made it better instead of worse. Might still try to get the pressure tester. I'm looking for 14 psi, yeah?

[DaraSue]

IMG_20160826_140938.jpg

Well, I tried using the pressure tester (with some help from a passing mechanic in the NAPA parking lot) and everything seemed fine, and then half a mile up the road the gage went up to 230 so I pulled into a Walgreen's parking lot. Another good Samaritan stopped to give me a hand, and he noticed that the radiator intake line wasn't even hot. At this point I figured I better give up and take it to a real mechanic so my new buddy helped me find one (since I had no bars and no internet).

Just drove it onto the lift now so we'll see what happens...