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Thread: No Interoir Fan... No Heat No AC...

  1. #21
    Member DKDMC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Correct
    So I have poked around with my multimeter. It seems I have no power at my fan circuit breaker... What could be the cause of that?

    Frustrated :/

  2. #22
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DKDMC View Post
    So I have poked around with my multimeter. It seems I have no power at my fan circuit breaker... What could be the cause of that?

    Frustrated :/
    I'm assuming you check both sides of the breaker. So you have a broken connection since the blower power would come directly from the battery. You would need to pull the wood panel off the back to get to the junction of wires coming from the battery.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I'm assuming you check both sides of the breaker. So you have a broken connection since the blower power would come directly from the battery. You would need to pull the wood panel off the back to get to the junction of wires coming from the battery.
    I did check both sides. I'll pull the panel tonight and see what I can find.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by DKDMC View Post
    I did check both sides. I'll pull the panel tonight and see what I can find.
    The power for the radiator fans circuit breaker comes out of Relay 112 (T). You need to check for power there if you don't have any power at the circuit breaker. It is in the bottom row 2nd from the left. One big thing to look for is if any terminals have worked their way loose and "backed out" of their position in the plastic block so that the terminals of the relays do not make contact when inserted.
    David Teitelbaum

  5. #25
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    No Interoir Fan... No Heat No AC...

    Very strange, the blower fan feed wire comes from a large crimp clustered brown wire junction. Just for grins, do a continuity test between the breaker terminals and POS battery terminal.

    All Solid brown wires are +12v LIVE feeds.





    Dennis
    Last edited by DMC5180; 09-08-2016 at 08:18 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Very strange, the blower fan feed wire comes from a large crimp clustered brown wire junction. Just for grins, do a continuity test between the breaker terminals and POS battery terminal.

    All Solid brown wires are +12v LIVE feeds.

    Dennis
    Before you do that continuity check disconnect the battery! My wiring poster shows the power coming from that cluster and going to the fan relay and then on to the circuit breaker. There are differences among the cars, maybe some got wired differently. If everything else coming out of that cluster has power I would doubt that is where the problem is. Are you sure you are correctly checking for power? Do you have a good ground? Can you measure power anywhere else?
    David Teitelbaum

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    Before you do that continuity check disconnect the battery! My wiring poster shows the power coming from that cluster and going to the fan relay and then on to the circuit breaker. There are differences among the cars, maybe some got wired differently. If everything else coming out of that cluster has power I would doubt that is where the problem is. Are you sure you are correctly checking for power? Do you have a good ground? Can you measure power anywhere else?
    Yes I've been Able to measure properly in multiple locations. Could a bad fan speed switch cause this?

  8. #28
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DKDMC View Post
    Yes I've been Able to measure properly in multiple locations. Could a bad fan speed switch cause this?
    No .The fan speed switch is down stream of the fan breaker. You stated you didn't have power at the fan breaker.


    Dennis
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    Before you do that continuity check disconnect the battery! My wiring poster shows the power coming from that cluster and going to the fan relay and then on to the circuit breaker. There are differences among the cars, maybe some got wired differently. If everything else coming out of that cluster has power I would doubt that is where the problem is. Are you sure you are correctly checking for power? Do you have a good ground? Can you measure power anywhere else?
    Please disregard the above, previous, post.
    I confused the cabin fan and the radiator fans. The circuit breaker for the cabin fan is directly powered from the N (brown) cluster. Since that is before the fan switch, a bad fan switch can't cause a loss of power at the circuit breaker. If you don't have power on the brown wire there is a break between the circuit breaker and the N cluster.
    David Teitelbaum

  10. #30
    Member DKDMC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    No .The fan speed switch is down stream of the fan breaker. You stated you didn't have power at the fan breaker.


    Dennis
    Thanks Dennis. Makes sense. This has been a tough one. I'll keep digging through and testing..

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