Hello guys,
Can you advise me where to buy online a good quality 3/8" Allen Key socket needed for the torsion bar adjustment?
Many thanks
Hello guys,
Can you advise me where to buy online a good quality 3/8" Allen Key socket needed for the torsion bar adjustment?
Many thanks
Let us reply to ambition that it is she herself that gives us a taste for solitude.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,582
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 2,734
My VIN: 01643
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
This is definitely one that you dont want to skimp on. The DCF recently found this out at a tech day in April when an inferior hex key broke during a torsion bar adjustment.
Definitely get one that is a 1/2" drive (most use a 3/8" drive) and ensure it's high quality. The one below is what I'd recommend. Williams tools are synonymous with Snap-On. It would be difficult to find a better tool than this one:
Williams 35212 1/2-Inch Drive Hex Bit Socket, 3/8-Inch
https://www.amazon.com/Williams-3521.../dp/B007YR9UXK
http://www.toolsdelivered.com/Willia...AE-Bit-Sockets
http://www.toolsdelivered.com/Willia...AE-Bit-Sockets
Last edited by Nicholas R; 10-07-2016 at 01:49 PM.
Nick... Doesn't the bit length need to be longer than 1 in? Mind has about a 6 in bit length so that the bracket can easily back off onto the hex while the hex is still in the torsion bar.
Jeff
#6313 (lic: DMC-EV Texas), 25k miles, 100% leather, touchpad, 100% LED, dimmable LED dash, remote door lock & Elvis mod, all A/C vents in kneepads, wedgectomy, escutcheon velcro fix, GM door chimer, custom arm rest/storage/controls...
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,582
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Not only is it important to get good quality tools, you must be very careful when doing that adjustment. For instance, if the allen tool fits too loosely the head of the torsion bar may be damaged or cracked. While adjusting you must watch that the tool is fully seated all the way into the head of the bar. I like to put a piece of rubber between the rear hinge and the torsion bar so they can't touch and scratch the torsion bar. Good idea to leave a small piece there all the time even after you finish adjusting the bar. If anything goes wrong not only is there a big chance of personal injury, you can break the back glass so it is imperative you do this safely. To do it safely not only must you have the best tools you can get, you should have someone with some experience. You MUST also have a helper who understands how dangerous this procedure is and can follow instructions precisely. You must have anything you could need handy while doing this so you can get it done quickly, your helper can only hold the bar for so long. In some instances it can be very difficult to remove the anchor bracket. The splines get "stuck" or the head of the torsion bar expands. Use pencil marks so you know where you are and which spline you are moving to. Always adjust to a new strut, not a weak, old one. Adjust 1 spline at a time until you get experienced. Before adjusting check the roof box to make sure it is still attached to the fiberglass. Be careful, the Tee roof edges are VERY sharp and you can get cut very easily once you remove the rear plastic valence. Careful with that valence, it is NLA and breaks easily.
David Teitelbaum
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,084
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
This baby takes care of that potential problem. Solidly built, too.
LINK: Proto x-long 1/2in. drive x 3/8in. hex
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,181
My VIN: Former owner of 1098
Club(s): (DCF)
There is plenty of room to back off the bracket onto the socket that Nick listed above. We just did a successful torsion bar adjustment this past weekend with the bit that was listed with no issues whatsoever. Keep in mind that the hex portion only fits in about 1/2" or so and the torsion bar bracket is much larger than the circumference of the 1/2" drive socket and will not interfere at all with the adjustment.
Last edited by Morpheus; 10-07-2016 at 06:05 PM.
Brandon S.
2014 Honda Civic EX
2007 Volvo S60R
Posts: 265
Extension set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-pc-su...set-67975.html
don't be fooled like I was, only the long one is 3/8" drive. It wasn't an issue I really only needed one more 3/8" extension but I was surprised that the other two were 1/4" drive.
Long reach ball head allen wrench sockets:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-38...set-67885.html
The biggest one is 3/8" and worked like a charm.
I wouldn't do this operation without the jig by the way, if you try to your super-long extension may not be square to the torsion bar. If it slips out, you're screwed. I did this operation last week on my passenger door for the first time. When you release the tension the bar is only twisted about 30-40° but at that angle it's under some pretty strong torque. I was a little worried about using the harbor freight tools but they worked out great.
My wife and I used two 20% off coupons and I think we spent just over $20 for both sets of tools. I already had tons of extensions but none of them were over 12". The 24" in this harbor freight set worked great for passing through the wood jig to keep everything square.
IMG_20160929_193201.jpg
Good luck!
-Greg
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,582
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
If you are looking for GOOD tools don't shop at Harbor Freight. It is all Chinese junk.
David Teitelbaum
Posts: 265
Yeah, I know a lot of people are strongly biased against Harbor Freight tools since most (if not all) of what they sell is made in China. I almost didn't make my post because I knew it would bring them out of the woodwork. I was just sharing my experience with actually doing the torsion bar job and using the exact tools I posted (see picture). I have had good luck with Harbor Freight hand tools and pneumatic tools (not so much with their powered stuff).