Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 1,168
My VIN: 10270
Curious to know if anyone has tried adding the oil/water heat exchanger from the later PRVs onto the DeLorean block.
It looks like I should be able to spin one on and plumb it into the head drain & heater return lines.
Does anybody have a B280 / 3.0 parts block? I'd love to buy one and give it a go. OEM replacements are NLA or I'd just pick one up online.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 1,168
My VIN: 10270
Maybe this was only a B280 thing? Can't find it referenced in the Chrysler literature.
Anyway I'm going to see if I can't make this Audi part work
Exchanger.jpg
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,592
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
Yes we do this on our turbo builds.
www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 1,168
My VIN: 10270
I thought you mightOriginally Posted by Delorean Industries
Do you have any oil baffle solutions? The final thing I'd like to address is how the pressure drops to 0 on hard braking. Thought about an accumulator but I'd rather solve the design problem at the source.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,592
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
Yes we baffle our pans! We also run a higher oil capacity than stock. I.e. The oil must be somewhere under hard braking if there is enough of it. Only down side is Windage cranking. The initial start up has different perameters. We "crank to run" (injection/spark initialization) at 150 rpms sustained for three seconds on turbo builds giving the system time to prime vs standard efi of .5 seconds. This evacuates the oil line below the Windage tray to near stock levels preventing the crank from starting the combustion process partially submerged.
www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 1,168
My VIN: 10270
Awesome, good to know for if/when I blow up this motor.
Meanwhile things are looking good for this sloppy mechanics heat exchanger setup. Investment to date: $32
If there is room to mount the hose attachments straight up I'm going to run the thermostat bleeder through this. Theory being that you want the oil up to operating temperature ASAP, so having full flow coolant movement when cold isn't ideal. Might be thinking about it wrong, I'm open to other ideas.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,110
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
Sorry I'm late to the thread, I'm hardly on the forums these days. I have a few stock B280F exchangers if all else fails. The hardest part I had was bending the tubes and routing the hoses to not get burned on the Spec I exhaust and to also not kink - I didn't use stock formed hoses though.
Cheers,
-----Dan B.
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 1,168
My VIN: 10270
Good to know, if this doesn't clearance I'll be in touch! Based on the other projects this seems to be headed toward the springtime.
I'm thinking the most optimal approach means buying a tubing bender and running hard lines so they can hug the block. I'll have to go through my bin-o'-hose and see if I don't already have some stainless braided lines that will work. I'm still running the cast iron manifolds so clearance is less of an issue for me.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,110
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
I have all the related steel pipes for the block too if tube bending seems too much when you begin this project. They're a bit harder to come by since they can rust out.
The hoses I was referring to are the ones that connect from the exchanger to the pipes going up to the water pump and to the block. The original ones are formed to go around the alternator or power steering pump (I can't remember which one it is) that is on the B280F. I had to bend the original tubing with some heat in order to direct them for easier hose routing, sticking a straight hose on them and trying to route the hoses without them kinking was impossible without modifying the tubes. So far, no problems.
Last edited by dn010; 10-18-2016 at 03:27 PM.
-----Dan B.
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,503
My VIN: 6585
I would think that you wouldn't want the bleeder running though this as the air bubbles would collect at the top and potentially block water flow. But if you do want to utilize the engine's cooling system instead of an independent radiator, why not just use the stock Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler, and couple it with one of P.J. Grady's heat sinks? It actually wouldn't require any modification to the car.
Otherwise, how well do these sandwich plates for the oil filters work with the oil sending unit? Specifically on clearance?
Robert
People they come together, people they fall apart...
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