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Thread: B280 or 3.0 oil/water heat exchanger - B28 retrofit compatible?

  1. #11
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    1,168

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCVegas View Post
    I would think that you wouldn't want the bleeder running though this as the air bubbles would collect at the top and potentially block water flow.
    One idea is to T the auto bleeder and incorporate an inline jiggle valve on the bleeder tank return. When air is purged and valve is closed, coolant flows through exchanger. Might just end up using the block drain plug as it is working well on the turbo side and was the OEM solution. Would have better flow and be a bit less "hosey".

    Quote Originally Posted by DMCVegas View Post
    But if you do want to utilize the engine's cooling system instead of an independent radiator, why not just use the stock Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler, and couple it with one of P.J. Grady's heat sinks? It actually wouldn't require any modification to the car.
    I'm not familiar with the auto trans cooling setups but I'm guessing that it pumps oil remotely. I'd rather not run any sort of scavenge pump, so to minimize any engine block oil pump effort, my preference is to bring the coolant to the oil rather than oil to the coolant. It's simpler to implement and a more appealing failure mode.

    Quote Originally Posted by DMCVegas View Post
    Otherwise, how well do these sandwich plates for the oil filters work with the oil sending unit? Specifically on clearance?
    There are quite a few options that fit. First glance suggests these parts I have should be able to work. I'll know soon enough!
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  2. #12
    Member cineman's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Italy

    Posts:    62

    My VIN:    #01748 #20011 #10902

    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    One idea is to T the auto bleeder and incorporate an inline jiggle valve on the bleeder tank return. When air is purged and valve is closed, coolant flows through exchanger. Might just end up using the block drain plug as it is working well on the turbo side and was the OEM solution. Would have better flow and be a bit less "hosey".


    I'm not familiar with the auto trans cooling setups but I'm guessing that it pumps oil remotely. I'd rather not run any sort of scavenge pump, so to minimize any engine block oil pump effort, my preference is to bring the coolant to the oil rather than oil to the coolant. It's simpler to implement and a more appealing failure mode.


    There are quite a few options that fit. First glance suggests these parts I have should be able to work. I'll know soon enough!
    I have a performance oil heat exchanger on the return water line, where the auto trans exchanger should be, for my twin turbo. Being a manual trans I had space there.
    I tryed in past the small oil filter exchanger, and also an oil radiator but I think this is the cleanest and more effective way; I have also a new water aluminium radiator.
    I have just a sandwich plate under the filter now but was planning to change with a thermostat controlled plate.




    Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
    Andrea - #01748 3.0lt Twin Turbo EFI, custom brakes, suspensions, manual trans - black interior -
    PRV's lover. Club Italiano Delorean www.dmc12.it

  3. #13
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    1,168

    My VIN:    10270

    Quote Originally Posted by cineman View Post
    I tryed in past the small oil filter exchanger, and also an oil radiator but I think this is the cleanest and more effective way
    Are you running the a watercooled GT15? Were you having oil heat problems?

    I should state that my primary goal isn't because of oil over heating, it's to get oil up to temperature sooner and help keep it there. The climate in my area isn't always conducive to a healthy warm-up and this seems like an inexpensive first place to start. If I were having oil overheat issues I'd seriously consider one of those Mocal coolers, tho! But I'm looking at a $60 solution -vs- $500
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  4. #14
    Member cineman's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Italy

    Posts:    62

    My VIN:    #01748 #20011 #10902

    B280 or 3.0 oil/water heat exchanger - B28 retrofit compatible?

    Previous last winter I was running a custom setup with 2x gt1544 , just oil cooled; now I finished installing the DPI hot side kit with 2x GT1548 that are also water cooled, but actually now with his header I could not use the old filter plate and need to relocate it; so I'm running now without the exchanger.
    You can see the oil filter plate hanging over the right turbo.
    In summer time the climate in Italy can be quite hot, I had in past too low oil pressure with oil heating up.
    Still need to see with the new turbos the heat efficiency but now is time to tune again the megasquirt first, next summer will see!



    Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
    Andrea - #01748 3.0lt Twin Turbo EFI, custom brakes, suspensions, manual trans - black interior -
    PRV's lover. Club Italiano Delorean www.dmc12.it

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