Side marker flasher

[Bitsyncmaster]

I was wondering how much interest there would be if I provided a product for flashing the side markers with your turn signals that works with LED bulbs.

I would guess it would cost about $30 for one unit that will do two side markers (front or back). Circuit boards are the most cost and then shipping costs. The more boards I buy the less it cost me.

Price also depends on how the connections are made. Cheap would be you solder your own wire to holes (pads) on the circuit board.

[DavidProehl]

I don't mind soldering, but at a $30 price point (very affordable in my mind) I think you could increase the price a little if it meant solder free connections.

The bigger issue in my mind on whether or not I'd buy it is how much modification is needed to the existing wiring? I don't like making electrical modifications that are difficult to reverse. Example: I overcomplicated the install of your dome light relay so that I wouldn't have to cut or splice into my harness. I can go back to the stock wiring setup in about 30 minutes. To me it isn't about how easy it is to install, it is more about how much of a modification is required.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I could use the power from the blinker and "parking lights" to power the side lights but it would need a diode and drop the voltage to the side lights by 0.6 volts.

You would wire each of the two side lights (two wires each) to the circuit board, the two blinker wires would need to be spliced to run those two wires, one "parking light" wire spliced, and one ground wire. I would also have an optional +12 volt wire if you don't want that 0.6 volt drop.

I could attach short wires so the user can use crimp butt connectors. I could find a connector either wired with short wires or circuit board mounted. Or attach long wires. The long wires may push shipping because the weight goes above first class mail.

[BABIS]

I am definitely interested in this!

[gulwng3]

I'm in also, but like David P., I'm willing to pay more to avoid work on my end and modifying the existing wiring.

Andy

I don't mind soldering, but at a $30 price point (very affordable in my mind) I think you could increase the price a little if it meant solder free connections.

The bigger issue in my mind on whether or not I'd buy it is how much modification is needed to the existing wiring? I don't like making electrical modifications that are difficult to reverse. Example: I overcomplicated the install of your dome light relay so that I wouldn't have to cut or splice into my harness. I can go back to the stock wiring setup in about 30 minutes. To me it isn't about how easy it is to install, it is more about how much of a modification is required.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm in also, but like David P., I'm willing to pay more to avoid work on my end and modifying the existing wiring.

Andy

There is not much I can do about reducing wiring changes. The side lights need to have power to flash when the lights are off. And I turn the ground side of those side lights on and off to make them flash.

I have almost caught up on other things so I did start entering the schematic and ordered some parts.

[Peripatetic]

I'd be up for it. I would just need a lot of walkthrough. I always drive with all of my lights on because I heard it reduces your chances of an accident by like 5% (not DeLorean study, I assume it was Honda Civics?).

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have a board (PCB) laid out. I tried to look for screw terminals to install on the board but then because those are so large, I could not just have the board covered with heat shrink.

So right now I just have 4 through hole pads (for 16 AWG wire) laid out on the left side and 4 also on the right side (for the side lights + and - wires). The left side is left blinker, right blinker, lights and ground.

I'm using Schottky diodes so the voltage loss should only be about 0.2 volts with LED side lights and 0.4 volts with incandescent side light.

My plan is to solder about a foot of wire into each of the 8 holes. So the user would not have to solder but use crimp splices to his harness. I could also sell without the wires if you want to solder your own into the board.

If you have any other suggestions, let me know. I may get one prototype which cost me about $75 or just get 100 production boards which cost $425.

[DrJeff]

+1 I'll buy a set.

[Lwanmtr]

Ahh.. a faulty front indicator socket will do this with no extra wiring needed (how do I know?)...hehe.

Ideally, something plug n play would be great as opposed to having to do modifications to the wiring.