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Thread: Oil leak near "big pulley"

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  1. #1
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
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    Oil leak near "big pulley"

    I'm still not knowledgeable on everything but I have an oil leak that appears to be coming out of around the pulley. My oil level didn't seem bad after about 5k miles. I'm assuming it's probably a significant job to change out whatever has gone bad here.


  2. #2
    Senior Member Chris 16409's Avatar
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    Check the oil pressure sender on the driver side. That's a common leak area you should rule out.
    Chris Miles

    For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
    1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California

  3. #3
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Hi there,

    Yes, if it's leaking oil around the crankshaft pulley, it's a medium sized job as you most likely need to remove the belts and the exhaust for room to work. The new seal is inexpensive so it's mostly labor.

    Here's the process:

    After removing the parts in the way of the pulley, you probably need to lock the flywheel using a special tool. Then, remove the nut with an impact wrench and a 35mm socket:
    image.jpg

    After removing the nut and washer, mark the position of the woodruff key on the pulley. Then reinstall the nut just tight enough to rotate the engine to get the key in the 12 o'clock position.otherwise it may fall into the oil pan.
    image.jpg

    Old leaking seal:
    image.jpg

    I used a gear puller to remove the pulley without bending/damaging it.
    image.jpg

    Clean up the area and install the new seal, ensuring it is square/straight in the hole.
    image.jpg

    Reinstall the pulley to torque spec using loctite.
    image.jpg

    Good luck with the job!
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Hi there,

    Yes, if it's leaking oil around the crankshaft pulley, it's a medium sized job as you most likely need to remove the belts and the exhaust for room to work. The new seal is inexpensive so it's mostly labor.

    Here's the process:

    After removing the parts in the way of the pulley, you probably need to lock the flywheel using a special tool. Then, remove the nut with an impact wrench and a 35mm socket:
    image.jpg

    After removing the nut and washer, mark the position of the woodruff key on the pulley. Then reinstall the nut just tight enough to rotate the engine to get the key in the 12 o'clock position.otherwise it may fall into the oil pan.
    image.jpg

    Old leaking seal:
    image.jpg

    I used a gear puller to remove the pulley without bending/damaging it.
    image.jpg

    Clean up the area and install the new seal, ensuring it is square/straight in the hole.
    image.jpg

    Reinstall the pulley to torque spec using loctite.
    image.jpg

    Good luck with the job!
    Dana, you do one helluva nice job with your resto work. Wow.

    This is a job I could benefit from doing, for the seal and to either replace or recondition the crankshaft pulley itself. The one you put on looks brand new. Did you find a replacement somewhere for sale or did you clean up and replate your original one? I think they are NLA from DMCH.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  5. #5
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Dana, you do one helluva nice job with your resto work. Wow.

    This is a job I could benefit from doing, for the seal and to either replace or recondition the crankshaft pulley itself. The one you put on looks brand new. Did you find a replacement somewhere for sale or did you clean up and replate your original one? I think they are NLA from DMCH.
    Thanks Jonathan! It's was a labour of love. Yes, after I cleaned them up a bit, I had my old pulley, 35mm nut, the engine bolts, etc. replated in yellow zinc. As you mentioned the pulley is NLA so I was extra careful to not bend it. Reconditioning the parts was economical as just the timing plate (102762) above it is $90+ to replace.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  6. #6
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

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    My VIN:    10201

    I'll double check where it seems to be coming from, but I changed the oil pressure sender last year. From above it goes to about halfway up the pulley on the passenger side though. It's considerably larger and more noticeable than when the pressure sender was lwaking originally.

  7. #7
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

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    My VIN:    10201

    Here's a better picture


    I actually changed out the oil pressure sensor switch not the sender

  8. #8
    Member Delta DeLorean's Avatar
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    Location:  The Netherlands

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Hi there,

    Yes, if it's leaking oil around the crankshaft pulley, it's a medium sized job as you most likely need to remove the belts and the exhaust for room to work. The new seal is inexpensive so it's mostly labor.

    Here's the process:

    After removing the parts in the way of the pulley, you probably need to lock the flywheel using a special tool. Then, remove the nut with an impact wrench and a 35mm socket:
    image.jpg

    After removing the nut and washer, mark the position of the woodruff key on the pulley. Then reinstall the nut just tight enough to rotate the engine to get the key in the 12 o'clock position.otherwise it may fall into the oil pan.
    image.jpg

    Old leaking seal:
    image.jpg

    I used a gear puller to remove the pulley without bending/damaging it.
    image.jpg

    Clean up the area and install the new seal, ensuring it is square/straight in the hole.
    image.jpg

    Reinstall the pulley to torque spec using loctite.
    image.jpg

    Good luck with the job!
    That is a great "how to" write up. I am going to replace that seal on my car this winter. Could you tell me what way the nut needs to turn if you want to take it of. Counter clockwise?

  9. #9
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delta DeLorean View Post
    That is a great "how to" write up. I am going to replace that seal on my car this winter. Could you tell me what way the nut needs to turn if you want to take it of. Counter clockwise?
    Thanks! Yes, the nut comes off the normal way, counterclockwise. When you put it back on, it needs to be torqued to 135 ft/lbs.

    By the way, here is the special flywheel lock tool (made by member 1Batt4u) that I used for removing and retightening the crankshaft pulley.

    image.jpg
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2012

    Location:  Burbank CA

    Posts:    164

    What is the best way to remove the old leaking seal?

    Can i use a breaker bar to remove the nut?

    If i cant find the special tool, can i put the car in 1st while it is on the ground? Is that enough to break the bolt loose?

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