Check the oil pressure sender on the driver side. That's a common leak area you should rule out.
Chris Miles
For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California
Hi there,
Yes, if it's leaking oil around the crankshaft pulley, it's a medium sized job as you most likely need to remove the belts and the exhaust for room to work. The new seal is inexpensive so it's mostly labor.
Here's the process:
After removing the parts in the way of the pulley, you probably need to lock the flywheel using a special tool. Then, remove the nut with an impact wrench and a 35mm socket:
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After removing the nut and washer, mark the position of the woodruff key on the pulley. Then reinstall the nut just tight enough to rotate the engine to get the key in the 12 o'clock position.otherwise it may fall into the oil pan.
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Old leaking seal:
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I used a gear puller to remove the pulley without bending/damaging it.
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Clean up the area and install the new seal, ensuring it is square/straight in the hole.
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Reinstall the pulley to torque spec using loctite.
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Good luck with the job!
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Dana, you do one helluva nice job with your resto work. Wow.
This is a job I could benefit from doing, for the seal and to either replace or recondition the crankshaft pulley itself. The one you put on looks brand new. Did you find a replacement somewhere for sale or did you clean up and replate your original one? I think they are NLA from DMCH.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Thanks Jonathan! It's was a labour of love. Yes, after I cleaned them up a bit, I had my old pulley, 35mm nut, the engine bolts, etc. replated in yellow zinc. As you mentioned the pulley is NLA so I was extra careful to not bend it. Reconditioning the parts was economical as just the timing plate (102762) above it is $90+ to replace.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
I'll double check where it seems to be coming from, but I changed the oil pressure sender last year. From above it goes to about halfway up the pulley on the passenger side though. It's considerably larger and more noticeable than when the pressure sender was lwaking originally.
Thanks! Yes, the nut comes off the normal way, counterclockwise. When you put it back on, it needs to be torqued to 135 ft/lbs.
By the way, here is the special flywheel lock tool (made by member 1Batt4u) that I used for removing and retightening the crankshaft pulley.
image.jpg
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
Location: Burbank CA
Posts: 164
What is the best way to remove the old leaking seal?
Can i use a breaker bar to remove the nut?
If i cant find the special tool, can i put the car in 1st while it is on the ground? Is that enough to break the bolt loose?