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Thread: 5 Speed gearbox flaw repair

  1. #11
    Delorean Guru
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Dana,

    Will you use a lift or just jack stands? I have photos of the last time I installed my transmission using jack stands if your interested in that method.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If you use jackstands you can do it with a floor jack. If you use a lift you need a transmission jack.
    David Teitelbaum

  2. #12
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Thank you for all the great advice and encouragement! I'll definitely reach out to Rob and or Nick when the time comes.

    I'll double check that the linkage is right before I tackle the removal. The only thing that would have been disturbed is the fit between the extension (#108295), the crossgate clevis (#105783), and the the control shaft assembly (#103130). There were two bolts fastening these 3 parts together (see pic) and there was a little bit of play in the non threaded holes on 2 of these parts that would cause a slightly different orientation on reassembly.
    image.jpg

    Would that cause my symptoms?

    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    Looks like the nut broke free from the shaft on you.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas R View Post
    What happened to your damaged 5th gear cover? Did you weld repair it or did you replace it?
    Yeah, the nut (103076) backed off completely and ruined the threads on the nut. I got a new nut and gasket from DMCH and got the cover aluminum welded locally by a guy that had 41 years experience (I found out when I picked the part up he owns an early vin unrestored DeLorean).

    New nut locktited, torqued and peened:
    image.jpg
    Welded cover:
    image.jpg image.jpg

    Apparently a tell tale sign that this nut is backing off is when you hear gear whine when you are in a gear and let off the gas and coast. I was hearing that in 3 and 4 but thought it was characteristic of the box and didn't ask.

    Oh by the way the most difficult thing about this repair for me was getting the 5th gear detent screw out. I had to enlist help, and it turns out that there was a ridiculous amount of thread adhesive in there.
    Last edited by DMC-81; 12-02-2016 at 09:34 PM.
    Dana

    Delorean status: Exterior and Interior finished. Refurbishing the transmission.

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  3. #13
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Dana,

    Will you use a lift or just jack stands? I have photos of the last time I installed my transmission using jack stands if your interested in that method.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I will be using jack stands and would definitely appreciate any photos.

    Thanks Dennis!
    Dana

    Delorean status: Exterior and Interior finished. Refurbishing the transmission.

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  4. #14
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post

    Oh by the way the most difficult thing about this repair for me was getting the 5th gear detent screw out. I had to enlist help, and it turns out that there was a ridiculous amount of thread adhesive in there.
    Heat it up with a propane torch or heat gun. Not to melt the aluminum, but to soften the adhesive. Then use a mallet and screwdriver to "impact" it loose. Once it cracks loose it will be finger tight. It's easier if the cover is still attached to the transmission.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    dswingle@DeLorean.com

  5. #15
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    Heat it up with a propane torch or heat gun. Not to melt the aluminum, but to soften the adhesive. Then use a mallet and screwdriver to "impact" it loose. Once it cracks loose it will be finger tight. It's easier if the cover is still attached to the transmission.
    Thanks Dave! I was too timid to use heat last time. Live and learn! Now I have the threads clean and the screw installed with just a bit of blue locktite. If I have to remove it again, it should be much easier.
    Dana

    Delorean status: Exterior and Interior finished. Refurbishing the transmission.

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  6. #16
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    I will be using jack stands and would definitely appreciate any photos.

    Thanks Dennis!
    Im not sure what happened here all my photos are visible in during writing and editing of this post. I've contacted the Administrator.


    These were taken with it going in. I Have headers, no crossover pipe to contend with.

    I don't have a picture, but I raised the engine and inserted a short 2x2 and a small stack of door/window framing shims between the back of the oil pan and frame cradle. This keeps the engine level or even a bit tail high when the weight was let down on it. I needed to use the block method so I didn't have any obstruction from another jack where I need access to pump the trans jack handle. I'm sure I could have used a small bottle jack offset to one side of the oil pan, but I didn't have to use.

    Loaded and ready to lift. I used a Motorcycle/Atv jack. (Harbor freight) It cradled the transmission perfectly with a little blocking to level tranny.. I loaded the transmission onto the jack in location. The Jack stands were at full extension but was not quite high enough to roll the everything under at once.

    Attachment 47594

    These photos loaded out of sequence but you get the idea.

    Centerforce clutch with finger weights. If you do the rear main seal but don't replace the clutch, you need to get a clutch disc alignment tool. I made one years ago of of aluminum round stock (un-splined)
    Attachment 47601


    A refurbished clutch fork. Note: Its a good idea to remove the fork and lube the pivot ball and socket with a mixture of 50/50 moly grease and anti seize compound. (Rob Grady tip) Rob also has the rubber cup/cover seal if you need a fresh replacement. I'm guessing all the DMC vendors have it though.

    Attachment 47600


    I bought some longer M10 x 1.50 bolts and cut the heads of to use as alignment dowels in the lower bolt locations.

    Attachment 47599Attachment 47598


    Up Up and IN. My wife did the heavy lifting while I guided things in place. It makes a difference to have a helper for 5 minutes.
    Attachment 47597

    The perfect time to replace the fuel filter while its easily accessible before the trans went back in.

    Attachment 47596


    Driver side shot ready to go up.

    Attachment 47595

    Gut shots

    Attachment 47603Attachment 47602

    The infamous second gear roll pin in the notch of the fork.
    Attachment 47604

    Reverse gear

    Attachment 47605
    Last edited by DMC5180; 12-03-2016 at 03:45 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  7. #17
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Thanks for the detailed information Dennis! Hopefully an admin can fix the pictures.

    Today I double checked/adjusted the linkage described above and test drove it. No joy. It's still doing the same thing. So I jacked the car up on 4 floor jacks and prepared for surgery. Tomorrow I'll get as far as possible with removing things, draining the gear oil, etc.

    Question to all: is it possible to remove the clutch slave cylinder off the transmission without disassembling the line? ( ...is there enough slack in the SS flexible line to move the slave and hard line out of the way?) I'd really like to avoid having to bleed that system again.

    Thanks.
    Dana

    Delorean status: Exterior and Interior finished. Refurbishing the transmission.

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  8. #18
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,114

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    5 Speed gearbox flaw repair

    Yeah, you can unbolt the line clip on the case bolt then unbolt the slave cylinder and lift it out of the notch in the bell housing. Use some zip ties to hold the metal line and slave up out of the way.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by DMC5180; 12-03-2016 at 11:06 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  9. #19
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,114

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Lets try this again.

    These were taken with it going in. I Have headers, no crossover pipe to contend with.

    I don't have a picture, but I raised the engine and inserted a short 2x2 and a small stack of door/window framing shims between the back of the oil pan and frame cradle. This keeps the engine level or even a bit tail high when the weight was let down on it. I needed to use the block method so I didn't have any obstruction from another jack where I need access to pump the trans jack handle. I'm sure I could have used a small bottle jack offset to one side of the oil pan, but I didn't have to use.

    Loaded and ready to lift. I used a Motorcycle/Atv jack. (Harbor freight) It cradled the transmission perfectly with a little blocking to level tranny.. I loaded the transmission onto the jack in location. The Jack stands were at full extension but was not quite high enough to roll the everything under at once.

    SD530403.jpg

    SD530406.jpg


    Up Up and IN. My wife did the heavy lifting while I guided things in place. It makes a difference to have a helper for 5 minutes.

    SD530407.jpg


    Centerforce clutch with finger weights. They don't make this version with the added weights anymore. If you do the rear main seal but don't replace the clutch, you need to get a clutch disc alignment tool. I made one years ago of of aluminum round stock (un-splined)

    SD530402.jpg


    A refurbished clutch fork. Note: Its a good idea to remove the fork and lube the pivot ball and socket with a mixture of 50/50 moly grease and anti seize compound. (Rob Grady tip) Rob also has the rubber cup/cover seal if you need a fresh replacement. I'm guessing all the DMC vendors have it though.

    SD530401.jpg

    The perfect time to replace the fuel filter while its easily accessible before the trans went back in.

    SD530404.jpg


    I bought some longer M10 x 1.50 bolts and cut the heads of to use as alignment dowels in the lower bolt locations. This works nicely for getting things lined up and square to slide forward into place. Once the upper bolts were in place, the lower locator bolts came out with finger pressure.

    SD530409.jpg SD530410.jpg

    Gut shots: including infamous second gear roll pin in the notch of the shift fork.

    SD530399.jpg SD530398.jpg SD530397.jpg

    Reverse Gear

    SD530400.jpg
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  10. #20
    Senior Member
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    "A refurbished clutch fork. Note: Its a good idea to remove the fork and lube the pivot ball and socket with a mixture of 50/50 moly grease and anti seize compound. (Rob Grady tip) Rob also has the rubber cup/cover seal if you need a fresh replacement. I'm guessing all the DMC vendors have it though."

    Actually not true. DMCH and therefore probably all their vendors don't carry this item. I sourced them through my European Renault sources years ago and supply a new one with every clutch we sell. This ovwerlooked item is critical to avoid the dreaded 'clutch ball squeak' that is so common with these cars.
    Rob

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