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Thread: VIN 2706's 20 year nap

  1. #101
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Location:  TN

    Posts:    803

    My VIN:    2706

    engine bay paint.jpg
    Before and After. Forgive Wiring harness and the painted resister etc. they are gonna get pulled and repaired/replaced. I am not wasting my time chasing shorts.

  2. #102
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Location:  TN

    Posts:    803

    My VIN:    2706

    20170119_135736.jpg20170119_140454.jpg20170119_140524.jpg20170119_140801.jpg20170119_140806.jpg20170119_140810.jpg

    Chris and I got the bad drivers door off today. I dont know why so many people are afraid to do it. With two people its easy, and no jig is needed. We used a cargo strap to hold door up to roof in garage and it was pretty easy. Hardest part was to get the bracket off that the door harness goes through. Screws were stubborn. Just used a breaker bar and a 3/8s hex from lowes. Figured out why among many reasons the doors werent closing right. The roof panel that buts up to rear windshield has popped off the glue. So I will need to repair that. I have a few questions for those who are in the know on the subject.

    1. What rust proofing paint did you use inside your roof box.
    2. What sealant did you reseal everything up there with.
    3. Just 3m tape on the t panel right?
    4. Is there a safe way to remove the light surface rust on my torsion bar?
    Jimmy

  3. #103
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Location:  TN

    Posts:    803

    My VIN:    2706

    Talked to Mike and got some advice. I am going to do the typical 4, 3 inch bolts through the top of the rear roof box repair.

  4. #104
    Member Delta DeLorean's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2015

    Location:  The Netherlands

    Posts:    69

    My VIN:    5823

    Club(s):   (DCH)

    Have a look at the door strut ball mounting plate. There is no better time then now, the t panel is off and the door strut is removed. The design is so poor, the plate that is bolted to the fiberglas is to small. If you peel down the weather striping from the top a bit more and remove 3 litle screws from the left rear fender, you can lift your fender a little at the top,and see if the fiberglas is cracked arround the strut mounting area.
    My roof was also lifted from the fiberglas. Have put in the four bolts yesterday. Easy repair.

  5. #105
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Location:  TN

    Posts:    803

    My VIN:    2706

    Quote Originally Posted by Delta DeLorean View Post
    Have a look at the door strut ball mounting plate. There is no better time then now, the t panel is off and the door strut is removed. The design is so poor, the plate that is bolted to the fiberglas is to small. If you peel down the weather striping from the top a bit more and remove 3 litle screws from the left rear fender, you can lift your fender a little at the top,and see if the fiberglas is cracked arround the strut mounting area.
    My roof was also lifted from the fiberglas. Have put in the four bolts yesterday. Easy repair.
    awesome thanks, I already ordered some reinforcement brackets for the ball studs as mine aren't to bad but I figured while I am in there I mine as well do it. Can you post some pictures of your repairs?

    thanks !

  6. #106
    Member Delta DeLorean's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2015

    Location:  The Netherlands

    Posts:    69

    My VIN:    5823

    Club(s):   (DCH)

    I will be working on the D tomorrow and make some pictures, still have the t panel removed.

  7. #107
    Member Delta DeLorean's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2015

    Location:  The Netherlands

    Posts:    69

    My VIN:    5823

    Club(s):   (DCH)

    Here are some pics from the roof repair. I used 4 M8 bolts, so i drilled 8 mm holes in the roof. Most people use M10 bolts, but personaly I think M8 bolts can do the job. Inside the car i used a thicker washer then the ones on top of the car, because it is on the fiberglas.
    For the door strutt ball mounting plate you have to remove the black part. Carfully drill out the rivets and remove it.
    My car has only 12000 miles and the plate has bended. Passenger side is not much better.
    Attached Images

  8. #108
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Location:  TN

    Posts:    803

    My VIN:    2706

    Awesome thanks !20170121_122831.jpg20170121_122652.jpg

    Stripped the bad drivers door today and pulled the glass. I have a glass guy coming on tuesday. Wasn't to bad of a job just takes patients and I took a lot of photos. Only thing I haven't removed was the door lock which was kicking my ass so I took a break lol.

  9. #109
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    2,208

    My VIN:    4877

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Those old door locks are a pain to get out...unless you're really sentimental about having the old lock, dont worry about busting it...hehe.
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Website
    YouTube
    My Patreon

  10. #110
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Location:  TN

    Posts:    803

    My VIN:    2706

    In all seriousness can someone explain to me how to get that door lock out without breaking it? I am stumped.

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