VIN 2706's 20 year nap

[DMC-81]

In all seriousness can someone explain to me how to get that door lock out without breaking it? I am stumped.

Hi Jimmy,

Does this thread help?....

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...move-door-lock

[sdg3205]

Just disconnect the rods and there are only the screws you see from the outside.

[powerline84]

It's just the door lock itself that is left in the old door. That thread all he did was nock the pin out and lube the internals. I guess I'll have to mess with it. I may just order new style locks . I got the passenger torsion bar out and the drivers side finisher. Just waiting on parts now.20170122_105512.jpg20170122_105529.jpg20170122_105244.jpg

[Lwanmtr]

Good luck. When I removed mine I tried to finess it out...but ended up mangling it to get it out. I didnt really care as I'm gonna be replacing both with new ones anyway. Even Toby at DMCNW said they are nearly impossible to get out, unless you have special tools.

[powerline84]

20170124_093542.jpg20170124_091859.jpg20170124_101602.jpg20170124_115205.jpg20170124_091537.jpg

Drivers glass is installed on replacement door. Right passenger fixed glass butyl tape was barely holding on so we reglued that as well. Right rear qaurter glass back in. Forward progress continues.

[dn010]

It's not so much being afraid of removing the door, it's getting it back aligned after disturbing the factory alignment that is the PITA. I've taken mine off several times, even have a write up on the old DMCNews site long ago but it took hours to align it and I still don't have it perfect.

Just wanted to say while you have everything apart you should put an inspection camera down into the roof access, if you don't have one you can use your cellphone camera on video recording mode with the flash on, put it in the access and move it 360 to get an idea of what it looks like inside...

Chris and I got the bad drivers door off today. I dont know why so many people are afraid to do it. With two people its easy, and no jig is needed. We used a cargo strap to hold door up to roof in garage and it was pretty easy. Hardest part was to get the bracket off that the door harness goes through. Screws were stubborn. Just used a breaker bar and a 3/8s hex from lowes. Figured out why among many reasons the doors werent closing right. The roof panel that buts up to rear windshield has popped off the glue. So I will need to repair that. I have a few questions for those who are in the know on the subject.

1. What rust proofing paint did you use inside your roof box.
2. What sealant did you reseal everything up there with.
3. Just 3m tape on the t panel right?
4. Is there a safe way to remove the light surface rust on my torsion bar?
Jimmy

[powerline84]

Oh I agree, but thats doors on any classic car and I am sure this is going to be harder but its still a task that someone with patience can do themselves. I will let you know how pissed I am after I re-install it lol, I am sure it wont be fun. Yeah I have had a look in the box, typical rust but repairable.

[powerline84]

Does somebody have a copy of the door fitment procedure or alignment guide or tips for installing door from scratch that has done it ?

[dn010]

Does somebody have a copy of the door fitment procedure or alignment guide ?

Is there such a thing?

Edit:

I've done it, and it is a lot of trial and error. Grab a be...drink, and get prepared to spend quite some time on this. I've tried keeping the hinge bolts snug but not tight, removing the pins and closing the door. Closing the door would be perfect without the T-bar or strut and then once they were installed the door would be misaligned again. Then it would be aligned with everything but seals and misaligned once seals were in. You can't adjust it with the T bar installed because it forces the front hinge up so I've found it is best to try aligning it with the bar removed and the seals in place. I've gotten away with getting it very close and then moving a fender or quarter panel in or out depending on what was needed. You're trying to make the gaps as even as possible along with it being even with the stainless (in which case you'll move the fender), you don't want the door hitting the header panel which will rip up the front part of your seal and you want it to close without catching the striker pins along with latching twice. You also want the door to close all the way to the bottom of the door opening, and opening and closing without catching and tearing up any part of the seals. So basically you've got about a million different things to move and a million different things to make even. I'd start by trying to get it as close to what it looked like on the old door and going from there, assuming you can tell how high up the hinges were or how far in they were bolted. After a few hours you'll get the idea of what the results might be if you move the door in or out, up or down etc. on the hinge. Make small adjustments at a time - you'll get there eventually...

[powerline84]

Is there such a thing?

I thought someone had mentioned it, maybe not. Can you give any guidance on installing a door since you have done it? Much appreciated.
Jimmy

edit,
thanks !