VIN 2706's 20 year nap

[Andrew]

Oh and I would add, penetrating oil and patience are your friends when working on a DeLorean! If you think you might need to remove a bolt or line connection anytime soon, start applying penetrating oil liberally now. I have found that a home brew 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works wonders. This is especially the case with the a/c accumulator fittings..both sides.

As crazy as it sounds, one of the best things about bringing one of these cars back is the multitude of things to do. When one project becomes frustrating, or when you're waiting for a necessary part you can work on something else :-)

[Rich_NYS]

Oh and I would add, penetrating oil and patience are your friends when working on a DeLorean! If you think you might need to remove a bolt or line connection anytime soon, start applying penetrating oil liberally now. I have found that a home brew 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works wonders. This is especially the case with the a/c accumulator fittings..both sides.

As crazy as it sounds, one of the best things about bringing one of these cars back is the multitude of things to do. When one project becomes frustrating, or when you're waiting for a necessary part you can work on something else :-)

+1 on all of the above...

[powerline84]

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Started out the night with the intent to pull off my fuel distributor, cold start valve, and metering assembly to send Josh at DPI for a rebuild...now i am starting to wonder if I should just send him the whole block lol. The motor is just filthy, everything is corroded. The spark plug tips actually look pretty decent but holy blow-by batman, look at the intake and you can see that the bae turbo kit is in fact deserving of its reputation for blow-by. Furthermore if I don't figure out how to get spark plug number 6 out I have to pull the heads anyway. It is so full of rust deposits I cant get a socket on it...I tried filling the tube and agitating the rust around but still couldn't get a bite on it. when I pulled the water pump hose to get better access it was dry inside with some calcium deposits... I think that hose had a leak in it and was dripping into the spark plug. Figured out that the fuel supply line goes through that water separator can and into the fuel distributer. I finished the night by putting some marvel mystery oil in each cylinder and putting all the fuel injectors in some B12 to soak for a couple of days. Not sure were I wanna go from here.
1. continue to try and get this motor running.
2. just have the motor rebuilt
3. mustang ecoboost turbo or LS swap.

Time will tell.

[powerline84]

I am gonna try a can of compressed air and blow all the rust and debris out of that number 6 Spark plug hole to try and get a bite on it . Then let it soak with some penetrate.

[Jonathan]

Started out the night with...

Nice progress. Do you also have a regular fuel filter on the car in addition to that water separator unit?

In terms of how you proceed next, I would suggest option #1 with a healthy dose of patience.

[powerline84]

Nice progress. Do you also have a regular fuel filter on the car in addition to that water separator unit?

In terms of how you proceed next, I would suggest option #1 with a healthy dose of patience.

I am with you...I am gonna continue to pull the intake and expose the valley of death to gain more accessible to the that plug and do some much needed work cleaning, replacing, restoring. I don't feel comfortable with the water pump or any of the sensors in the vod being good.

[powerline84]

Also this turbo system is garbage in my opinion by today's standards obviously....crappy blow through system...no fuel control....primitive ignition system for a turbo ...and terrible blow by....crappy components. It was probably ok for the early 80s but its coming off the car.

[powerline84]

Nice progress. Do you also have a regular fuel filter on the car in addition to that water separator unit?

In terms of how you proceed next, I would suggest option #1 with a healthy dose of patience.

yeah its still got the filter system on it on top of this stupid water seperator...that is also coming off the car lol

[Andrew]

You can't judge a book by its cover and, generally speaking you can't judge the internal condition of an engine by how it looks on the outside. Many years ago I purchased a junk yard Buick 455 that was covered in grease and mouse fur. I gave it a tune-up and a cosmetic cleaning with foamy engine bright and a can of Buick engine red spray paint, tossed it in my 72 Riviera and fired it up. That engine turned out to be the best 455 I've ever owned! The fact that your engine is complete and together is a very good sign. Be prepared to see a lot of crap in the VOD. Dirt and debris tends accumulate down there. The junkyard soured 84 Volvo 760 engine that I recently installed had a filthy VOD, but it runs like a champ and has ample power.

From a durability standpoint, the PRV is a decent engine with documented examples logging over 200K miles in a few DeLoreans and many Volvos. However, like any other aluminum engine, they don't like to be overheated. Thus, you could see a nasty looking PRV with 175K on it that runs like new, but you could also see a 5K spotless engine that is internally trashed from overheating. I've also noticed that PRV's like heavier weight oil. I previously ran 20w50; however, I recently switched to 15w40 Delo for the higher ZDDP levels.

Also, make sure you plug every spark plug, fuel injector and intake opening before blowing any compressed air on any parts. The oil in the intake is a sign that the turbo seal may be failing, but it is not necessarily a sign that the engine itself has internal problems. The blow-by that is a concern is not the blow-of the compressor seal to the intake, but rather the blow-by of the piston rings into the crankcase.

For an interesting thread which includes an extensive clean up of existing k-jet parts, you might want to take a look at the documentation of 11114's restoration from a few years back:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?35...-from-the-dead

While engine swaps can be fun once they are done, they often quickly turn into a project car spiral. Dave of Project Vixen described it better than I ever could:

http://www.projectvixen.com/week244.htm

[powerline84]

You can't judge a book by its cover and, generally speaking you can't judge the internal condition of an engine by how it looks on the outside. Many years ago I purchased a junk yard Buick 455 that was covered in grease and mouse fur. I gave it a tune-up and a cosmetic cleaning with foamy engine bright and a can of Buick engine red spray paint, tossed it in my 72 Riviera and fired it up. That engine turned out to be the best 455 I've ever owned! The fact that your engine is complete and together is a very good sign. Be prepared to see a lot of crap in the VOD. Dirt and debris tends accumulate down there. The junkyard soured 84 Volvo 760 engine that I recently installed had a filthy VOD, but it runs like a champ and has ample power.

From a durability standpoint, the PRV is a decent engine with documented examples logging over 200K miles in a few DeLoreans and many Volvos. However, like any other aluminum engine, they don't like to be overheated. Thus, you could see a nasty looking PRV with 175K on it that runs like new, but you could also see a 5K spotless engine that is internally trashed from overheating. I've also noticed that PRV's like heavier weight oil. I previously ran 20w50; however, I recently switched to 15w40 Delo for the higher ZDDP levels.

Also, make sure you plug every spark plug, fuel injector and intake opening before blowing any compressed air on any parts. The oil in the intake is a sign that the turbo seal may be failing, but it is not necessarily a sign that the engine itself has internal problems. The blow-by that is a concern is not the blow-of the compressor seal to the intake, but rather the blow-by of the piston rings into the crankcase.

For an interesting thread which includes an extensive clean up of existing k-jet parts, you might want to take a look at the documentation of 11114's restoration from a few years back:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?35...-from-the-dead

While engine swaps can be fun once they are done, they often quickly turn into a project car spiral. Dave of Project Vixen described it better than I ever could:

http://www.projectvixen.com/week244.htm

I am with yah. I just came home cranky lastnight lol. I woke up fresh and ready to keep working on this engine. I still have hope for her and agree with you yhat the turbo was probably worn out . Progress continues lol...