VIN 2706's 20 year nap

[FABombjoy]

The oil on the throttle body & the mixture unit is almost certainly from the crankcase, tho.

Oil in the intake manifold is probably from carbon seal failure but could be from a bad drain. I've never seen a BAE turbo setup with a correctly clocked center section.

[powerline84]

20161214_120050.jpg

Well first the good news....
-After some pb blaster, a can of compressed air, a tap of a socket onto the spark plug and a lot of patience I was able to get the number 6 spark plug out and head looks ok.
-The vod looks good, it looks damp cause of me but inspected and poked and couldn't find any holes.

The bad...
-disconnected the distributor but I cant get it out of the block...seized? (any ideas?)
-the valves look just down right nasty and gunked up....i poured some marvel mystery oil into the heads and cylinders.
-I cant get the motor to turn by hand, I had good tension on the alternator belt but couldn't get it to turn. I pulled the starter to make sure it wasn't seized on the flywheel and still no luck.
-last ditch effort will be a 4 ft breaker bar and a 35mm socket on the crank...if she doesn't budge then unfortunately I think the motor is toast and I will have to pull it for a full rebuild. any ideas here?

[Andrew]

20161214_120050.jpg

Well first the good news....
-After some pb blaster, a can of compressed air, a tap of a socket onto the spark plug and a lot of patience I was able to get the number 6 spark plug out and head looks ok.
-The vod looks good, it looks damp cause of me but inspected and poked and couldn't find any holes.

The bad...
-disconnected the distributor but I cant get it out of the block...seized? (any ideas?)
-the valves look just down right nasty and gunked up....i poured some marvel mystery oil into the heads and cylinders.
-I cant get the motor to turn by hand, I had good tension on the alternator belt but couldn't get it to turn. I pulled the starter to make sure it wasn't seized on the flywheel and still no luck.
-last ditch effort will be a 4 ft breaker bar and a 35mm socket on the crank...if she doesn't budge then unfortunately I think the motor is toast and I will have to pull it for a full rebuild. any ideas here?

The rings are likely stuck from sitting for so long. Hold off on the large breaker bar for the moment...you don't want to risk stripping the treads on the crank or breaking the crankshaft. Pour a 50/50 mixture of ATF and diesel fuel into the cylinders through the spark plug holes and wait a few days to a week. If you can get even the slightest movement, things are going in the right direction. I successfully freed up a motor with this technique, which I found on an old tractor webpage (apparently tractor mechanics run into stuck piston rings often). It may also be beneficial to take the valve covers off and coat everything with a layer of ATF.

With regard to the distributor, will the base turn? I suspect that it may just have a little corrosion against the head, I highly doubt the gear has rusted to the camshaft. Give the joint between the distributor and the cylinder head a soak with a penetrating oil of your choice and let it sit.

[cdrusn]

I had an engine from an Alfa Romeo that hadn't been run in 10 years and would not turn by hand. I poured ATF fluid into each spark plug hole until it came out of the hole. At first very little would seep past the rings and I would keep filling them up as necessary. Slowly more and more fluid went through until finally a full hole would be empty by the next morning. Changed out the crankcase that had old engine oil/ATF fluid, refilled with light weight oil and it started right up although smoked like crazy for a few hours until the ATF burned off but it also had the effect of softening up the carbon and blowing that out.

[powerline84]

I took your guys advice and dumped a 50/50 at diesel mix in the cylinders and valves . Now to let it work it's majic. I talked to Rich , he told me not to get grumpy lol. Staying positive...worst case it's just an oportunity for an engine rebuild:-).

[powerline84]

after a few hours of pb blaster soak I can now turn the distributor by hand, cant quite pull it out yet but gave it another good soak, I think it will pull out by morning

[Dangermouse]

I took your guys advice and dumped a 50/50 at diesel mix in the cylinders and valves . Now to let it work it's majic. I talked to Rich , he told me not to get grumpy lol. Staying positive...worst case it's just an oportunity for an engine rebuild:-).

With my old triumph, I used Marvel Mystery Oil and let it sit for a week or so. The TR owners advice was then to put the car in 4th, handbrake off and push it to turn the engine.

Why that method and not directly on the crankshaft, I'm not sure, but it worked out well for me.

[Andrew]

For what it's worth, I would recommend deferring the removal of the distributor until you get the engine freed up. It's a real pain in the butt to get the distributor on the exact correct tooth if the crank has been turned without the distributor in place. Before removing the distributor make sure to mark the position of the rotor and take a picture or two, then don't turn the crank until you have the distributor back in the engine. I've learned this one the hard way.

[dn010]

You might take all the belts off the engine and make sure everything else turns, not just the crankshaft. Then put the socket on the crankshaft pulley and try to turn it. You aren't going to "break" the crankshaft, and if you're trying to push it hard enough to strip the pulley bolt - obviously you've got a problem. If something is wrong enough to hold up the engine to this extent, it should be disassembled and the cause should be identified. If rings are rusted, you'll have all that debris in the cylinder if not more should you break a ring, plus you should probably figure out exactly why the rings are rusted in the first place.

I had a '50 Buick with a straight-8 parked since '73. Cleaned the carb, fuel tank, put a 6V battery in it and it fired right up. My '57 Cadillac was parked with a bad head gasket which means coolant/water in the cylinder. Even after two weeks of Mystery oil in the cylinder with the head off, it wouldn't budge. It took my wife cranking the starter and me with a breaker bar on the crankshaft to finally free it up after a very long time. Even running, the motor was trashed with scored cylinders and broken rings - needed to be rebuilt and we knew that anyway.

Also to add - I know it's too late but it's a good idea to use a shop vac and a dental pick to clean out the spark plug holes before you remove the plugs, this way you don't shoot all the crap from them all over the rest of the engine. I would also change the oil prior to starting it, and then again after a little while running so you can get any deposits out of the engine.

Good luck.

[powerline84]

20161215_121702.jpg20161215_120451.jpg20161215_120501.jpg20161215_120506.jpg20161215_120614.jpg20161215_120926.jpg20161215_120934.jpg20161215_121026.jpg20161215_121708.jpg20161215_120453.jpg

While I try and decide what to do with motor I started to check out the doors. Discovered my first cave paintings.

-WRSOIS (W.R. SOIS? Worker )
-07/13 M.I.
-Blue T sticker
-89 or 68 on passenger door.

Any insight ?
Also both doors have repairs needed....rivets popping behind torsion bars. The Drivers door got side swiped at some point and it tweaked the door to the point it impacts the pontoon when closed. For those who have been down this road before my gut tells me it will be cheaper in the long run to just order a new blank door from dmc and throw all my guts in it instead of repairing this one . Any thoughts ? I can't wait to pull the body of the frame.

Also In regards to the front license plate lol I had to do it. I am a fan of BTTF.

Jimmy