Repaint my Bumpers

[gullwinger]

Was wondering if anyone knew the paint codes for the bumpers? Grey and Black for the plastics
Also I need a rear drivers side fender, any idea what the cost would be for a used one? someone I know wants $400 for it

[Chris 16409]

Since the original paint codes from the 80's are no longer valid, DMCH had some new codes made. I've linked the PDF file.

[gullwinger]

Since the original paint codes from the 80's are no longer valid, DMCH had some new codes made. I've linked the PDF file.

Thanks Chris, appreciate that for sure!

[David T]

Thanks Chris, appreciate that for sure!

You can also look up ST-13-9/81. As mentioned you probably have to convert to newer codes since the paint systems have changed. $400 is a fair price for a rear quarter panel if it has no damage, only minor scratches that can be rubbed out. If it has the glass and the plastic trim, it is a good price. Shipping can be expensive so local pick-up can save you a lot of money. Most shops can now measure the old color and come up with a very close match. They use a computer to measure the color and it spits out the formulae to mix. Don't get it too glossy, the original was more of a matte finish than a smooth, glossy one. You will be surprised what a little bit of paint costs today!

[Jonathan]

Here's some more information:

http://support.delorean.com/kb/a80/p...r-fascias.aspx

I had not realized until reading this article that the black colour on the fascia was not paint at all, but in fact the natural colour of the urethane material the bumper is made from.

Has anyone had any success with getting the urethane black back to it's original look, or should any of us considering fascia painting just assume we'll need to paint the black portions too?

[1batt4u]

I just had my fascias painted, $1,500. Black sections were painted black as well.

[David T]

I just had my fascias painted, $1,500. Black sections were painted black as well.

Many shops will just paint the black section. Before you do that just try Black Again. It also works great on the rear louvers, the side mirrors, the plastic grills on the rear quarter panels, and the side rub strips.

[Michael]

Those formulas look to be single stage paint, which is OK, but if you really want something that will last use base/clear. The clear coat will have the appropiate amount of dulling agent mixed in to reproduce the proper factory sheen (unless you want high gloss).

I have the formula for the OEM paint codes here but this is for single stage urethane paint.

formula.jpg


Now here is the formula for base/clear in PPG (DBC2000). A few years ago, I took my car to the paint store and had them put the camera up to my bumpers just so we would have the formula in the base/clear(IMO much better)....which was lost in the talk archives deletion. This formula makes 1QT which should be more than enough to do both fascias, BUT it will match MY car's fascias. Being my car is a refurb, it's safe to say they are factory but paint does change color as it ages and how much sunlight it has been exposed to, so no spot work with this formula, just complete resprays.

649 Clear 83.4
1690 Crs. Alum. 303.6
1687 Med. Alum. 400.4
1683 Black 483.8
DX 685 flat 497.2
1607 Blue 502.8

These are cumulative amounts! The paint store will know what that means. Remember in base/clear the gloss or matt finish is controlled by the clear. If you are spraying urethane single stage you need to mix in the appropiate flattining agent into the color coat. In DBC the flatening agent(not to be confused with DX 685 in the formula) is mixed in with the clear.

[Michael]

Many shops will just paint the black section. Before you do that just try Black Again. It also works great on the rear louvers, the side mirrors, the plastic grills on the rear quarter panels, and the side rub strips.

Bare urethane lends well to being wetsanded and buffed out. If you go this route be sure to do it before painting the fascias.

[DMC-81]

Here's some more information:

http://support.delorean.com/kb/a80/p...r-fascias.aspx

I had not realized until reading this article that the black colour on the fascia was not paint at all, but in fact the natural colour of the urethane material the bumper is made from.

Has anyone had any success with getting the urethane black back to it's original look, or should any of us considering fascia painting just assume we'll need to paint the black portions too?

Hi Jonathan,

I left the bottom of the fascias raw urethane and used Black Again on them, and they looked good. But I wasn't satisfied with the look of the main bumper portion as it still looked slightly faded, so I had that painted 2 stage SEM trim black with satin clear coat. Now, you can't tell which is painted versus not.