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Thread: Radiator replacement

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc. View Post
    Prove me wrong Josh and you can laugh till you're blue in the face! I've tried your fans. They are not as strong as stock fans.
    Rob

    As important as the fans can be, once you get up to about 30 MPH they aren't really necessary anymore due to the ram effect of moving through the air. With the newer type fans properly installed on a good duct you can achieve the same airflow at lower currents. I don't often see it done well though.
    David Teitelbaum

  2. #12
    Senior Member DL4567's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    You may also want to look at upgraded fans if you haven't already. Having the radiator pulled is a perfect time to swap fans since you're already going to be pulling the shroud and have access. I wish I had done it when I replaced my radiator a few years ago. I'm looking at doing replacement fans next year and not looking forward to having to pull the radiator again.
    I replaced my fans a few months ago, without removing the radiator. It was a hell of job though, and I can see it was one step short of pulling the radiator. No fun.
    Derek L
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    As important as the fans can be, once you get up to about 30 MPH they aren't really necessary anymore due to the ram effect of moving through the air. With the newer type fans properly installed on a good duct you can achieve the same airflow at lower currents. I don't often see it done well though.
    Ok David I've seen every common high efficiency setup out there so far and none put out like the stock fans. Which setup are you referring to? BTW I'm aware that the fans are unneeded at higher speeds.
    Rob

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    Quote Originally Posted by cdrusn View Post
    No doubt replacing fans with more modern efficient ones is a must do. The next pressing question is what mixture of coolant, orange or green will you use?
    Go green!
    Rob

  5. #15
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    I did some CFM testing a long time ago and as expected the higher current fans did have higher CFM. It does make sense if your fans are drawing more power (watts = current times voltage) that you get more air moved. I don't know how much the fan blade design affects efficiency.

    The problem with the OEM fans is the stock wiring does not handle currents approaching 15 amps each. I have seen a few fan fail jumpers with fuses melt and one caught fire on a friends car.

    I have tested a set of OEM fans that only used a little less than 10 amps each. But many have been tested in the car that run 14 amps each. So I used that set of 14 amp fans to bench test. My bench testing showed 15 amps each because my bench test has less wiring and less voltage drop. I then opened one of those fan motors and cleaned the commutator of the dust build up from the brushes. I expected the current to drop to the 10 amps like a new OEM fan would run. But the fan current actually increased to 15.8 amps on my bench test. So what is causing the fans to increase current? Only thing left is the permanent field magnets and the shaft bearings.

    The real test is driving uphill in the mountains on a hot summer day an watching how much your temp gauge climes. I'm running Toby's fans with the EU radiator and so far have not seen any temp changes but have not really done the mountains on a 100 deg. day yet.
    Dave M vin 03572
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  6. #16
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    You don't want me to do that Rob. If you instigate with nothing more than "seems like less" I will serve up an empirical evidence driven real world testing beating. It will rival the fact checker on Trumps twitter account.
    www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delorean Industries View Post
    You don't want me to do that Rob. If you instigate with nothing more than "seems like less" I will serve up an empirical evidence driven real world testing beating. It will rival the fact checker on Trumps twitter account.
    Josh I would expect it is in your interest for future fan sales to share any testing info with your customer base?

  8. #18
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    CFM testing is hard to get an absolute accuracy. So your best testing is done with the same test setup comparing each fan type side by side. I used a Hot wire Anemometer but that only measures the airflow at one point. So I did my testing about one inch from the edge of the fan blade. The fan blade design would have a large effect of the air movement differences along the entire fan blades. Obviously where the motor is mounted there is no fan blades and no air flow there. The tips of the blades have the highest speeds so you would think air flow is best there. Some fan blades use higher pitch near the center to compensate.

    The best way to get an absolute accuracy would be to have a 1000 cubic foot plastic bag and test how long it takes to fill the bag.
    Dave M vin 03572
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenny View Post
    Josh I would expect it is in your interest for future fan sales to share any testing info with your customer base?
    No lol. I don't care if people buy our products or not honestly. I just won't let our hard work and development be attacked based on feels like less to me testing standards.
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  10. #20
    Nit-picking customer(as seen on TV) Iznodmad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenny View Post
    Josh I would expect it is in your interest for future fan sales to share any testing info with your customer base?


    Looks like he puts the info right on the website for the new fans as far as flow and draw is concerned. Who gives a crap what crusty old fans do or don't do. They fail eventually like everything else "factory". I refuse to put old crap on my cars. The newest and the best for me!

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